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MG MGA - Accelerator spring bracket
|I have a little query, and I'm sure that help will be forthcoming from our friends on this forum.
Due to a bad fuel leak from under the front carb, I had to remove this carb for repair. The leak seemed to be from the cork glands on the jet, and I replaced the glands with new viton small white O rings. I think they are made of viton, but not sure. But they are definately made to replace the cork.
At this stage, I also decided to remove the rear carb to replace its cork glands washers with the viton type. So far so good.
My query is about the accelerator spring bracket which goes under the rear carb, bolted to the bottom stud of the carb. I am a
little confused because when the carb is mounted in place on the stud, the spring bracket is also fitted on the same stud. This does not leave enough thread for the nut to bolt the carb. Only about half the nut is screwed in on the stud. Any comments on this will be appreciated.
Thanks to all
|Perhaps one to many fiber insulator blocks? Some years ago I chose to install a second insulator block, and had to delete the lockwashers for the nut to fit. More recently, after the nuts came loose once, I installed longer studs and reinstalled the lockwashers.|
|A tip to make life a LOT easier with carb servicing is to remove the air filter outer covers, then the filters and mesh protectors. Then just bend the heat shield a little towards the fender and you have access to the manifold nuts using a small ratchet. You can then remove the whole assembly en bloc.
I also use R clips on the cable trunnions so if I want to do anything to the carbs on the bench I have only to remove the P clip at the timing order plate, the fuel line connection, three R clips and the accelerator cable block at the bracket and everything is free
|Many thanks Barney for your comment. I only use one fibre block per carb, as shown on the workshop manual. In addition I also have the heatshield which goes on the carb studs, and this also takes up some space on the stud, not to forget the normal thin gaskets. Is there anything sensible that I can do to eliminate this problem?|
|Longer studs should be available at your local auto parts store. Getting the original steel studs out of the aluminum manifold can be a PITA, possibly due to galvanic corrosion.|
|To clear up my small problem with the bottom nut that bolts on the rear carb, this is what I did. As I mentioned before, after fitting the necessary gaskets,the fibre block, the accelerator spring bracket and the heat shield, there remains very little thread on the stud to be able to fit the carb, and the nut is screwed only half way on the remaining thread.
I removed about half the thickness of the nut, and before thightening the nut I put on some thread lock on the stud in addition to a very flat washer.This did the trick.
|Thread lock is good stuff. Got me out of trouble many times. But does removing the thickness of the nut makes any real difference?.|
|I can't believe that a "standard" set up would be so short on exposed thread.|
Is yours standard?
You say there is there a heat shield?
I freely admit I am not familiar with the MGA HS set up, but isn't the throttle return spring usually hooked on the bottom of the heat shield, as with the B?
No. It fits on the mounting stud as described above. Never heard of Frank's problem before. Stud should be well long enough for all that is described.
|Steve, Who the hell knows what's happened to cars in their lengthy existence. The proper stud was probably lost down a drain somewhere!!! OR>>>>>>>>>the correct long stud is in the wrong place (other than down a drain!!)|
Very true - I discovered, following a leak from my thermostat housing, that the bolts holding it in place, should have been studs, and hence the leak
|I go along with Alan Reeling here. I dismantled both carbs when doing the car's restoration, but I do not recall removing the studs from the inlet manifold. I have no intention now to remove the carbs again, it is a hell of a job to to do it again. So I shall leave things the way they are now. I am happy with the nut being screwed in with threadlock, it is tight enough now for it to become loose, I tried it.|
This thread was discussed between 30/07/2018 and 15/08/2018
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