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MG MGA - anti roll bar

Before I embark on taking off bumpers, front valance and extracting the front chassis extension in order to install a new anti roll bar I thought I'd ask if anyone's been clever enough to find a way of threading the old bar out without going through this rigmarole. I'd even accept a judicious bit of bending of the bottom of the inner wheel arch if it were possible to get the bar out. If it was not possible one could cut the new bar in half, insert it in place and then have it shop welded. Bit drastic I know but possible.
J H Cole

I would not cut the new anti roll bar (anti sway bar) an half and then weld it back together in position. The anti roll bar is in fact a torsion bar spring and the twist in the grain of the metal is critical to the operation.
It could not twist correctly at the weld.
You cannot simlply just cut and weld springs, all sorts of heating and stress relief would be required.

Mick
M F Anderson

Nooo!! - don't cut the bar - as Mick says it is torsion bar steel - the weld will break under stress. My anti roll bar was already fitted when I bought my car- but taking off bumpers and valance is a straight forward job - if a little fiddly - and a second pair of hands makes it easier. I have a newly painted-up valance ready to fit - so I have that job to do when it gets a bit warmer - cheers Cam
Cam Cunningham

JH
Can I ask why you are replacing the bar. Is it to fit a heavier (or lighter one)?
If you really want to avoid taking off the valance and bumper you could cut the old one out and then replace it with the 1500 anti roll bar which fits in a different way and can be fitted without removing body parts. You need different drop links to the original though.
Certainly easier to do if you want to avoid hassle.
David
D C GRAHAME

I am puzzled as well. I did not need to remove any of that stuff. There again, I am using the MGB bar with modified drop links.

Steve
Steve Gyles

I'm intending to install a MGB 3/4 inch anti sway bar using my existing drop links in the traditional fashion. - I'm crossing my fingers now hoping that no tells me it can't be done. Had a quick chat with Barney on this and he thinks it should be OK as per his web site.
J H Cole

Steve -- Sounds like you have the 1500 type which sits below the front extension (instead of in the groove on top of it as per the 1600) and which uses modified MGB drop links and for which you dont need to remove all the body parts.
JHC -- A word of caution. Bob West advised me to be
careful not to go too thick with the A/R bar or you will get too much understeer , certainly for normal road use.
David
D C GRAHAME

Food for thought DG. My car needs a stiffer A/R bar and currently has a 9/16" bar and gets oversteer. I guess I followed the reasoning on Barney's site since I can't claim any direct experience myself. I wonder what Bob West regards as too thick?
J H Cole

Hi JHC,

Does your anti sway bar pass over or under the front extension?
Later 1600 models had a depression in the top of the front extension for the bar. See image.


Mick

M F Anderson

Hi JHC,

If you are fitting an MGB anti sway bar under the front extension of a MGA there is a very good article written by Bill Spohn of Vancouver, Canada.
I hope Bill approves of my putting on the Internet at:

http://www.angelfire.com/amiga/mga/index.html

You need the Adobe Acrobat Reader to view PDF files.
This program is free of charge at:

http:/www.adobe.com
M F Anderson

That should be:

http://www.adobe.com
M F Anderson

MF I've got the later chassis extension with the housing for an AR bar as picture. This ones a 9/16". On balance I would like to stay with this arrangement. I wondered if there are any members that have fitted a different (thicker) AR bar and what their experience has been in the change of understeer/oversteer?

J H Cole

JHC -- Give Bob West a ring. He will give you lots of good ideas and info on this. - 01977703828
David
D C GRAHAME

This thread was discussed between 06/02/2009 and 07/02/2009

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