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MG MGA - Body question

Not sure of the correct part name, but I am about to make the fairing that covers the frame, at the bottom of the door opening. It fixes to the top of the inner sill. Questions are 1) How wide is it? Does it just go to the centre seam on the frame, or does it cover the frame completely? 2) How much vertical gap should I leave for the packing? the body is on the frame and I have packing in place where it is mounted.
Art Pearse

If I remember correctly that fairing is about 1.25 inches wide but gets slightly wider at the back where it attaches the sides of the battery cover. There should be about 1/8 inch space between the chassis and the fairing and this part should be wide up to the seam of the chassis channel. My body is still not fitted on the chassis so if you will need exact width I shall go to the garage to measure.
c vassallo

Thanks, that was what I needed!
Art Pearse

Art

Think it's called the sill sealing plate (SSP). I got a pair of new reproductions and they were oversize on width and clearly you were meant to trim to size.

I've built up my body on the frame initially without any packing anywhere. I've arranged the bottom of the vertical inner sill closing panel (ISCP) to be in line with the bottom of the frame.

My sealing plate sits horizontally on the frame with a half inch vertical flange (upwards) for spot welding to the closing panel. After trimmming to width the sealing plate is approx. 1.5 inches. I was aiming to achieve a 3/8" gap between frame and ISCP and with the half width of the frame at 1.125" this makes the 1.5". The SSP extends up to the central frame flange but not beyond it.

The length of the SSP is around 3 feet and is welded at the front end (1/2" vertical flange ) to the A-pillar bracket and it stops at the rear end at the B-pillar body bracket. I still haven't decided whether it is meant to be welded to the rear bracket.

The SSP is, of course curving upwards at the rear end and to incorporate the vertical flange on this curve will be a bit tricky if you are making one yourself but I didn't have to cope with this.

Hope this helps ....................Mike
m.j. moore

I did this a few years ago. The sill closure plate sits on top of the outboard half of the frame, does not go on top of the central weld seam. Since I don't have a flange shrinker press, I cut several narrow slits in the flange, formed the curve to fit the frame, then welded the slits back solid again. See the entire process here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt621.htm

Leave about 1/8 inch vertical space between this flange and the frame. At body installation time pack it with 3/8" thick closed cell soft foam rubber. This was originally felt packing, but felt tends to hold moisture to encourage rust.
Barney Gaylord

OK. Thanks everyone! This will be simple compared to remanufacturing the entire rear fender flange at the B pillar.
Art Pearse

This thread was discussed between 29/06/2011 and 30/06/2011

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