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MG MGA - Choke cable fixing

I have found that my choke sometimes stays locked on after pushing the knob back in. It appears to be a problem with the bracket holding the cable, above the carbs (pic attached). On mine there is nothing holding the outer cable firmly in place, so when I pull on the choke, the whole cable (both inner and outer) pulls out through the bracket, and if on release, the outer cable catches on the top of the bracket, it can't return. Should the bracket have something that locks on the outer cable, or should there be something on the outer cable itself? I am sure I have to replace one of these, but not sure which.
Any help much appreciated. Thanks

GrahamMV

T%he cable is normal the problem you have is probably that as you push the choke back the choke levers do not pull on the inner cable due to stiction probably in the jet tubes at the bottom of the carbs. When this happens the cable goes slack and the outer cable comes out of its bracket.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Thanks Rob. I have had a careful look and you are absloutely right. If I pull it out the full way, it doesnt spring all the way back regardless of what is happening at the bracket above. If I only pull it half way, it seems OK.
Does this mean I am going to have to remove the carbs and strip them right down? Or can I just spray some WD40 underneath with full choke on? I am a bit of a novice and am worried to get them back on and more importantly get it started before summer is over! (if summer ever starts!)
GrahamMV

Don't use WD40, it's a water repellent not a lubricant, and it will just leave a sticky residue that mekes things worse.

Best to use a bit of normal lightweight oil or an oil spray.

Is there a spring attached to the choke rod (should have a small metal disk with two holes, one for attaching to the cable tensioner, one for the spring. The other end of the spring goes to the heat shield. If the spring is missing, it will stick too.
I don't see any springs in your picture (should be one on the accelerator too)
dominic clancy

Graham

Probably a blindingly stupid question, But are you twisting the choke first to release it?

Steve
Steve Gyles

Steve, Thats a very interesting question. My choke knob has virtually no twisting movement so I am not able to lock it open. Also it is very hard to pull all the way open. Is this connected do you think?

Dominic, Yes there is a spring attached at the other end to the chassis member. Only the accelerator spring is connected to the heat shield.
GrahamMV

Starting the season, my choke was extremely hard to pull on for cold start. My issue was solved by simply re-routing the cable. It had been pushed over out of the way under the fender. One of these days, I will need to remove a few inches of the jacket, and re-adjust the pull wire. The jacket has enough overall length to form a loop well above the fender height with the hood open.

It's worth a quick look...and free!

Rick
rpb bunch

Greetings all,

There's a product on the market called "Break Free". We use after cleaning our service pistols because it, A) doesn't attract water and B) provides a nice lub factor without gumming up. Works great. Just a thought. Cheers!
Robert Maupin

Hi, I have sprayed around with carbcleaner with no great effect. The front carb is definitely worse. I have disconnected choke linkage from rear carb and removed dashpot & piston to eliminate needle, but even with the benefit of both side and rear springs, after applying the choke, the jet still wont return all the way back. I am assuming it should it go flush, mine still has a little way to go (see pic)? Any ideas what I should be looking at next?
Any help greatly appreciated - thanks


GrahamMV

Oh, when I say the front carb is worse, I mean worse than the rear one (not worse as a result of carbcleaner!)
GrahamMV

If you have original H4 carburetters, then the top of the jet does not come up flush with the bridge. It is recessed approcimately 1/16" Have you checked the choke levers for worn pivot holes. They will create a sloppy geometry and cause problems with cable and jet return.
John DeWolf

Why does this BBS keep moving me accross the country?
John DeWolf

The jets may not fit flush depending on the mixture adjustment. But they should return all the way to the stop. Can you push the jet farther up by hand, or is that as for as it will go. If you can push it up more by pushing on the bottom of the jet, then it is still sticking.
Ed Bell

John,
Don't you like British Columbia? LOL.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Yes, I can push it from underneath until it's flush. Does that mean I need to take the carb off and strip it right down. Seems like a big job for a poor mechanic like me!

GrahamMV

Graham, if the jet tubes aren't returning fully you probably need to remove each carb and disassemble the jet tube assembly. There are 2 cork seals that prevent the petrol from leaking out of the jet assembly. It's fairly common for these to get stuck. Only replace them with SU cork seals, nothing else works. I know because I tried the other seals and they leak. You MUST immerse new cork seals in oil for at lease 24 hours before fitting them. It's a fairly straight forward job but remember where everything goes and follow the manual. It took me 3 times before I stopped the sticking and leaking.

Andy 60 Coupe
Andy Preston

"Only replace them with SU cork seals, nothing else works."

Not true. I have used teflon seals on the jets in our TD for the past 25 years and they have never leaked and never stuck. There are a lot of people in the T series community who have used the teflon seals and have had the same experience with them that I have.

Graham - If you want to give the teflon seals a go, the person to get them from is Tom Bryant at tbryant@suscom-maine.net I don't know what he charges for them now or what the postage to England would be. I am also sure that you could find the same thing over there, they are a 010 size 'O' ring, but I wouldn't have the slightest idea of where to direct you. When using the teflon seals it is necessary to use two in each position (eight for a pair of carburetors). It is also necessary to relieve all sharp edges, on the jets, including around the through hole half way down the jet before sliding the 'O' rings on. The teflon is quite fragile and will nick on the slightest sharp edge. Once installed properly, they will give you good service for many years (25 and counting on our TD). Cheers - Dave

PS. Don't try to use plain nitril or Bauna N or even viton 'O' rings as all of them will swell after time and you won't be able to move the jets at all.
David DuBois

Is it easier to renew the seals in the jet assembly with the carbs remaining on the car? It is just that one of the bolts holding the carb assembly (underneath, rear) looks a real pig to get to, so I thought it might be simpler in situ?
Graham V

This thread was discussed between 18/05/2009 and 20/05/2009

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