MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - Coupe Door Hinges

My left door hits and has to be lifted before the door will shut correctly. I think I can adjust it with a wedge but I'm afraid to unscrew the hinges because I don't know if they're held with captive nuts or if I have to have access to the inside of the door. Can one one please let me know?

Thanks.
Gene Gillam

There are loose nuts inside the door. There is a taping plate inside the A-post.
Barney Gaylord

Thanks Barney...it's the nuts I have to gain access to.
Gene Gillam

Gene good luck with access to the nuts inside the door. If my memory serves me correctly you may have to remove the window winder and window channel to get access to them. It's not going to be easy. If you can install a shim on the A post it's going to be easier than on the door.

Andy
60 Coupe

Andy Preston

Damn...that looks like its going to be a pain to fix. I know what you mean about doing putting it at the A-pillar but two of the screws in the door are loose and I think that's where the sag is coming from.
Gene Gillam

Gene,
The hinge pins may be worn. You can replace those quite easily.
Andy is right about access to the hinge bolts inside the door. But maybe you want to remove the window and window frame anyway!
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Peter,

I've checked the hinge pins and they look okay. Of course, knowing my luck, I'll pull the door apart and it'll end up being the hinge pins after all so I will double check them before I start.

Speaking of starting...the MGA is now a driver! Got it off the jack stands and on it's own four wheels for a trip around the neighborhood today. http://youtu.be/8ZjU09WfhEk
Gene Gillam

Gene congratulations with getting the Coupe running and back on the road after it's 14 year hibernation. It looks great and sounds great. It's obviously in far better shape than mine was after spending 25 years abandoned in a farmers field in Sacramento.

The window and frame removal is relatively straight forward and many of us have previously done it but it will take you the best part of a day to get it out. I expect that many of the nuts on the lower part of the frame where it connects to the bottom of the door will be rusty.

As far as I remember the glass comes out with the frame while the window winder mechanism is lying at the bottom of the door. Removing the long nuts on the underside of the quarter light can be very frustrating. And there is some type of mastic sealant between the bottom of the quarter light and the top of the door.

At least you have a long weekend ahead of you.

Good luck

Andy
Andy Preston

Thanks Andy...hopefully it won't be that hard *IF* the Previous Owner stripped everything apart as he said was done.
Gene Gillam

Gene, I own a 58 coupe and a roadster. No difference in hinges, really. If your hinge is loose you should see a gap appear or be able to feel movement between either the door and the hinge or the pillar and the hinge. The first thing to try is simply tighten the screws. If none are loose, look to the hinge pin. If you want to shim the door it is actually a simple process. As Barney mentioned, in the pillar there are tapped plates. An upper and a lower. To gain acess, remove the trim panel on the fender side in the footwell. You will find two slots, an upper and a lower. You do not actually need to do this. Because the plates are captive you can simply loosen the upper screws, remove the lower screws, intsert a shim or two and replace the screws. Aternatively, you could make a shim that is narrow enough to slide between the screws. Loosen the lower screws, insert the shim, re-tighten the screws.
If the door side hinge screws are loose and won't tighten, remove the door handles, remove the trim panel and reach inside with a wrench to hold the nuts, then tighted the screws. Fairly straight forward. I don't think you have to remove the window and frame, though it will be a tight squeeze. You might also consider a socket and a long extension.
Good luck,
GTF
G T Foster

Gene,
One more comment. Because the threaded plates are captive, you can remove the screws from each hinge, one hinge at a time, to check for play in hinge joint. Although the plates are captive, they can move around a little. If you have trouble getting the screws back in, insert an ice-pick or punch in one of the screws holes to align the plate. When one screw starts, the other should be relatively easy. Also, regarding the window frame inside the door. If you really need more room, unfasten the window frame from the brackets in the bottom of the door. This will gain you some clearance.
GTF
G T Foster

GTF!

Thanks!! Working on that right now and came in to make sure the tapping plates were actually captive and wouldn't fall if I put in shims.

I was going to try to shim the hinges on the door itself but thought it I did it would bring the edge of the door too close to the front fender (almost touching now!).

Gene
Gene Gillam

Success!

Added packing to bottom hinge section on the body side, cleaned old grease from latching mechanism, adjusted striker on door and now the door closes and latches the way I would imagine it was supposed to do.

Thanks all for your input...every little bit helps.
Gene Gillam

This thread was discussed between 20/11/2012 and 24/11/2012

MG MGA index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG MGA BBS now