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MG MGA - Door stiffener

Got my stiffener pieces from Moss. The 1/8 board is a nice free fit, but with the vinyl added, wrapped over, it will not go on. I can just get it on if I were to cut away the wrapped-over vinyl.
Is there any way I can open out the slot without wrecking it? I'm thinking taking a piece of 1/8 steel flat bar with a square edge and hammering it in the slot.
Next question, how do you index the exact height to install the bar, as it is attached behind the door panel.
I have already drilled the holes for the panel screws so the panel position is fixed.
Can I put the outer panel on first, slip on the siffener and put a panel screw each end, drilling through both?
The panel is not yet covered so this hole would not show.
Art Pearse

Assuming your 1/8" board is thicker then the original part, it may be better to thin the edge a little so after the vinyl is installed it will slip inside of the stiffener bracket. Otherwise, expanding width of the slot in the bracket sounds like a royal PITA.

If you don't mind the screws showing in front, you could put the stiffener on on the door edge for alignment, then drill through the panel from the back. Then install teh panel in correct alignment with at least a couple of screws. Then drill through the inner pocket flange and steel door panel with a smaller tapping size drill, and install the screws that will secure the stiffener.

If you don't want the stiffener screws to show, then put the stiffener on the panel, hold the panel in correct position (perhaps with a couple of screws), reach inside with a felt tip marker, and mark position of the top of the stiffener on the steel door shell. Then remove the panel, position the stiffener at the marks, drill tapping size holes and install the stiffener screws. Finally slip the door panel into the stiffener, position properly, and install the panel screws. It works for me.
Barney Gaylord

Ok Barney, I'll thin the panel a bit.
Thanks
Art Pearse

I had the same problem. Made the metal fold larger by hammering a piece of wood into the groove until it spread enough to fit the door panel.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Well, I thinned the pannel top with a sander, indexed the holes from the back to the panel, covered the panel with vinyl and I'm adding 2 panel screws that will show.
That way I installed the stiffener on the panel before assembly to the door.
I might write to Moss and tell them to make the gap 3/16"!
Art Pearse

The trouble is that Moss (and others) use material for the door panel which, at 1/8", is too thick.

Over here the common sheet from trim suppliers for this job is 2mm dark grey millboard, which was probably 3/32" in the old days.

I used vynide (lionide) for the panel covering which is around 0.5mm thick and the finished thickness to go in the lip is just short of 1/8". Ordinary hooding vinyl((Everflex) is too thick at 0.65-0.70mm.

I fixed my panel brace right at the end of the job and I completed the panel fixing with all screws then measured accurately the height of the opening from the door bottom (around 7.5") then removed the panel and positioned the brace to this height.

Another way might be to get hold of some small double sided sticky pads and put one at each end of the brace then fix it to the panel before offering up the panel to the door. The brace will stick to the door and you can then remove the panel and drill the holes. These sticky pads are very strong and are a must for the toolbox.

It seems a shame to drill the new panel where it doesn't need to be drilled................Mike
m.j. moore

This thread was discussed between 31/03/2014 and 02/04/2014

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