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MG MGA - ethanol resistant fuel lines
|Are we all changing the rubber components in our fuel system to SAEJ30R9 to combat the potential effects of Ethanol in fuel? If so what size is most appropriate and where in UK are people obtaining the supply?|
Am I correct in thinking ethanol will also degrade the soldered joints on the fuel sender float and carburettor floats?
|Fuel solutions on my NGA:|
-- 10% alcohol in the fuel, 200,000 miles in 20 years.
-- Teflon lined fuel hoses from Moss Motors, 250,000 miles in 27 years.
-- Teflon O-rings in place of the jet seals, 130,000 miles in 16 years with no stick an no drip.
-- Viton grommets for the float chamber mounts, 6 years 45,000 miles. Still on probation, but a lot better than 1 or 2 years for the older rubber grommets.
-- Solder in the original sender unit and original carburetor floats, 55 years and 400,000 miles, no problem. I don't believe ethanol is detrimental to solder.
|More recently a 3-inch blower to cool the carburetors when needed. Guaranteed to banish the fuel boiling problem in hot weather.|
|Barney, can you recommend a source for the Teflon O-rings and the Viton grommets...|
|Moss Motors has the Teflon lined fuel hoses and Viton grommets for the float chamber. Teflon O-rings are available from McMaster-Carr. See bottom of page here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb106.htm|
See ebay item: 281191695466
|In the UK, Radio Spares have the O ring seals; BS010 Viton(TM) O-ring, 1/4in ID - P/No 129-022. I bought a bag (50 or so i think) and passed the remainder to other owners. The bag cost about the same as for just 8 on e-bay. Might be worth pooling together with some local owners.|
|Should I be worried? All my fuel bits and pieces are standard from my rebuild in 1997. Everything working ok with no issues relating to this thread title. Do I just wait until things start to show deterioration and replace as and when? As they say, 'if it ain't broken, don't fix it'.|
Like Barney, I fitted the bilge pump in the air intake tube, but I have to say that I have never had to switch it on. Out of amusement, I am thinking of transferring it to the heater tube to see what difference it makes to cockpit heating/cooling! Also, is it relevant to this thread that I always fill up with super unleaded (98 octane)?
I only changed my seals as the cork ones were weeping.
The bilge blower could sit nicely in the heater ducting and give a nice warm flow i would think, judging by the CFM flow. Probably discard the original fan blade too.
|Am I the only one who noted with amusement, that Moss is simultaneously offering a plastic ("nitrophyl") carburetor float as a replacement for the original soldered brass, and a soldered brass fuel quantity sender float, to replace plastic ones? Both to supposedly combat the same problem of modern pseudo-gas....|
|My teflon jet seals arrived Wednesday from McMaster... Was curious if you put any kind of lubricant on them, or if it goes together dry? In aviation we sometimes use stuff called "fuel lube" (a non fuel soluble grease) for things like pipe connections (no teflon tape allowed) and some seals.|
Also wondered if I could get some comments on using a viton O-ring in place of the cork seal (295-000) under the beveled washer where the jet screw threads into the carb body? A size 210 o-ring (1" OD, .125" thick) should fit well here.
This thread was discussed between 20/10/2013 and 24/10/2013
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