MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - Fender fit

I am trial fitting the RH rear fender to the B post and SF panel. The pillar has the outer cover removed so the SFP is using that thickness, for now, in the pic. SFP matches the pillar OK, but see the gap, about 3/16, on the upper bend of the fender. What to do? I checked the SFP against the door profile and it is pretty good. Somehow I think the fender has too much curvature at the top. This would explain why I think I am about 3/8 short at the bottom, to where I estimate the inner sill will be (8-1/2 below the body mounting bracket).
Should I cut across the flange in a few places and try and flatten the curve?
The bend is too rigid to be able to pull it in with the fixing screws.

Art Pearse

This is the fender profile (cardboard) vs the rear of the door. So it looks like the fender is out. Can't understand it - there is no evidence of any damage or tampering with that shape.

Art Pearse

what did you do? and why? If your shut face panel is new, see "shut face panel" BBS from nov 23 09. Do not change the fender shape,too hard, fit the shut face to fender AND door shape.
Good luck

Martin
m zazvorka

Art, You will not be able to change the door shape any appreciable amount so you will have to change the fender shape. I would make a hardwood buck the shape you want the fender to match. Get a good torch and carefully heat and hammerform the fender to shape. Go slowly so as not to create any change to the fold and "hip" of the fender directly behind the door. Do a good job of this and you should not need body filler. I think this was the fender you welded a new flange onto to attach to the B pillar, wasn't it. I bet you shrunk the radius of the bend on the top part of the fender from welding. Might be easier to do a little snip on the flange in the middle of the radius of the top bend of the fender, reshape, then reweld the flange while the fender is clamped to shape. Not easy but at least it will be right.
Matt
MG Grover

I just did this yesterday, Art...only mine was far worse than yours. I had to reweld the flange on the front edge of the rear fender as it was rotted off, and when I rechecked the fit, the heat had pulled the curve too tight, and the bottom corner was higher than it should have been.

I ended up having to make a cut through the flange (both surfaces) and then use a clamp as you did along with a largish rubber mallet to get it all to lie flat.

I also noticed on mine that the flange was not at 90* angles - but kind of recessed and more of a "Z" shape - does that make sense? This does give it some give when fitting as you can alter slightly the amount of "Z" that it has and change the curve as a result.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Martin - I didn't do nuffin! That's how I got it. The SFP is S/H, looks original and in good shape.
Matt - that's right I have just tacked some pieces in place to extend the flange I had to cut where it had been brazed. In this area the flange was almost complete and I only tacked in some flat sheet. I just followed the existing curve. Definitely no weld pull.
Jim, the clamp is only just holding it close, not forcing anythng.
I think my plan will be to mount the door, make some radial cuts in the fender flange (no "Z" to play with) and try to get a smooth transition. I don't have oxy acetylene, just MIG.
Art Pearse

This thread was discussed between 23/11/2009 and 24/11/2009

MG MGA index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG MGA BBS now