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MG MGA - Fitting Body to Chassis?

I'm about to connect the front end of my roadster to its rear end... Q.. I will be removing the body immediately after its connected so, is it imperative that the packing material needs to be installed prior to the body connection?... If I have written something stupid please forgive as I'm attempting to put this A together from parts out of many boxes unmarked and stored for years and years...
c allen

c allen,

I would like to help but I don't really understand the situation or question. Please give more specific information on your car and it's condition and the what you are trying to do. Pictures would be great if available.

We can help.

Jim
Jim Ferguson

I think he has a body that is separated in the center, and he intends to use the chassis frame as a jig for rejoining the two halves. If so, he will have his work cut out for him.
Del Rawlins

Why Del?..this is the only way to do the job, and have done it many times.
Gary Lock

Well, I'm still in the middle (sidetracked by other projects as usual) of a sill replacement using the frame as a jig, and my body halves have never been removed. I'd hate to try restoring the alignment of the halves once it has been lost by removing them from the frames. Yes, it can be done and several members here have done it, but it definitely increases the degree of difficulty.

If I wasn't in Alaska I'd have probably have long since taken the body to Eclectic, and I'm a relatively experienced welder and home shop fabricator.
Del Rawlins

I think c's question is... "is it necessary to have the packing materials in place when he puts the body halfs on the frame for body work". IMO, adding the various foam/cork bits isn't necessary to do this.

Del, your comment of "taken the body to Eclectic"... I wanted to get my coupe there in September to complete some of the body work I felt was too challenging for me, and to have the car painted. Eclectic would not take the job, it seems that they moving away from restoration work. Carl's statement was "I have sold our MGA jigs and fixtures to a shop in Colorado and we're focusing on other things". Not sure what the "other things" are, but I sure hate to see this loss of a great restoration resource.

George
G Goeppner

I also built my body up from numerous pieces that I received using the chassis as a jig. I found the work very straightforward and with commonsense and logic was a easy task to achieve. If you want all the detailed description of how I did mine then leave you email address and I will send you my records. However if you simply want to know about the cork and packing pieces then leave them out.
I built up my body on the chassis and then removed it for painting and welding some areas that are inaccessable when the body is assembled on the frame. When I lifted it back onto the frame I installed the felt and cork at that time.
Bob (Robert) Midget Turbo

Thanks to all for your responses. George you are right and I'm sorry I did not make it clear that the front half section is resting on hangers from my garage ceiling rafters while, the rear half is resting somewhat in the position on the chassis (which is on a 4 poster lift) where it should be, minus its sills having been cut just ahead of the "B" pillars. So I have many parts to weld sooo I will use the chassis which is in excellent shape for the template to achieve accurate fitting of the two halves. Orignial Q, was. Would leaving the packing material out cause any fitting problems for accuracy.. I sometimes weaken and question myself if I'm in alittle over my head but I so dearly have the desire to put this A together and relive my young man's days when I had my first A roadster back when I was in England. I will try and get picts as soon as possible... Clive...
c allen

Bob, My e mail is allen8843@msn.com I would really appreciate anything you can send me on fitting the A body to chassis. Thanks.. Clive..
c allen

You need to start in the middle and build these bodies around the doors. Set the two body halves on the frame with a few loose screws so they are roughly in correct position but may be moved slightly. Install doors with hinges and latch parts. Fiddle all you need to make the doors close and latch properly, including nudging the body parts around a bit if needed, then screw it down with a couple tight bolts so it doesn't move.

It might be nice if space between the door posts was the same on both sides, but not absolutely necessary. Mine came from the factory with 1/4-inch difference in space on opposite sides, and it is still the same after my recent rebuild.

Then you can cut and fab sheet metal to rebuild the body sills below the doors, and other repairs to door posts, inner fenders and gussets as needed. See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/restore1.htm

When the inner structural parts are finished, then install the outer rocker panels, making the bottom door gap right in the process. This will be much easier if you buy rocker panels in correct shape to begin with so you don't need to be remodeling the new rocker panels.

Final step is to install the fenders and align those with correct gap to the doors (and sills), then R&R the latch strikers to install shut face panels and door buffers.
Barney Gaylord

Thank you Barney very much thats what I had in mind somewhat and you have made the steps so clear in fitting the body and other panels. I certainly intend to refer to your Tech Link. Thanks again.. Clive.
c allen

This thread was discussed between 12/12/2008 and 13/12/2008

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