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MG MGA - Hi Torque Starter Wiring

The instructions for the hi torque starter I have are not totally clear to me. It says that the existing starter switch can be retained and to connect the heavy duty lead to the stud on the body, but it makes no mention of the spade connector. Advice please.

Steve

Steve Gyles

Steve,
Bear with me - i'm guessing. The new starter is a pre engaged type which means its solenoid should be powered from the dead side of the MGA starter switch, the heavy power lead from starter switch to starter gets combined on the hot side of the old starter switch such that power is always live to the starter but broken by the solenoid which is only powered when you pull the MGA starter switch. So - i think; you can take the heavy lead from the dead side of the starter switch, mount it on the hot side with the incoming battery feed, run a suitable gauge wire from the dead side of the switch to the Starter solenoid spade connector. That way the solenoid only gets power when you pull the starter, which then makes the heavy contact in the solenoid (after engaging the teeth) which then powers the motor.
I'm sure others will pipe up soon.
regards
Colin
C Manley

Thanks Colin. I follow the logic. I will just wait for a few more comments before installing it.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Steve, Mine has a hi-torque starter fitted. I'll have a look at the wiring this evening if it helps. As you are just the other side of Guildford to me you are more than welcome to have a look at how it is installed on my car.
Cheers
Richard
Richard Atkinson

Mine is wired as Colin describes, works quite well. '52 TD with a '37 Ford flathead V8-60 motor. Marvin
Marvin Stuart

I have re-read the instructions following Colin's description and it now all makes sense.

A couple of final questions: 1. What amp wire should I use? 2. What is the wire colour convention for this item?

Steve
Steve Gyles

If you were doing a clean new install, you would run the hot battery cable direct to the solenoid, without the vestigial "switch", now just a connector point. So it is a battery cable - do as you might expect.
If you mean the small wire to actuate the solenoid, that would normally be W/R, which you could take off the old switch output side to save adding an electrical push button for starter activation.
FRM
FR Millmore

Thanks FRM. It is the small wire I am talking about. What amperage?

For anyone else who is remotely interested I have attached a picture showing the comparative size of the standard MGA starter and the hi-torque.

Two points come to mind: Will I be able to get the hi-torque starter out without removing the screw-on filter? 2. Less power will go through the starter switch, so possibly the starter switch will last longer.

Steve

Steve Gyles

Steve-
Don't know, but it can easily be calculated by measuring ohms across the operating coil, and then apply Mr Ohm's fine law. Or, hook an ammeter in series with a wire to the spade, thus measuring directly. It is probably c5 Amps, suitable for most "ordinary" wires on the car; at the length required it is probably more a matter of mechanical durability of the wire than electrical capacity. Still, it has been found expedient to fit a relay to operate these starters, to prevent contact burning when low cranking voltage might let the solenoid drop out.

I expect the starter will come out nicely, since it is only the long shaft that usually hangs it up, but I haven't any RHD car nor starter to check.

FRM
FR Millmore

What is wrong with the original starter?
dominic clancy

Dominic

The original went very sluggish; the first replacement failed the tinkle test; and the current one is prone to gnashing of teeth. I was so impressed with Barry Gannon's hi torque starter when I was down in Oz that I decided to go down the same route.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Just fitted it. Whow, what a difference. Wish I had done it years ago.

Many thanks Colin for your totally correct wiring instructions.

Steve
Steve Gyles

This thread was discussed between 26/06/2012 and 29/06/2012

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