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MG MGA - Hot Starting Problem and Misfire Solved

. . . . . . I think . . . . .

Don't suppose anyone will remember, but last year I was mystified by my 1600's inability to start for 20 minutes after stopping, and an intermittent misfire ditto.

Having established that it was spark rather than fuel, yesterday I finally spotted the culprit in action.

It was the +%$$*£"% heater valve! Dripping from the end of the cut cable directly into the most vulnerable bit of the distributor cap - where the tab on the cap locates in the body, and there's a gap.

What a stupid place to put a cheap component like that!!

Rant over.
Nick

So now Nick, you can go plumbing.
Guy RENOU

Good find!!

I must comment, Cherry Scoop sounds like my kind of town, big bowl of cherry ice cream must be around there somewhere!!

Russ
Russ Carnes

I thought it was a great design. You immediately know that the heater valve is leaking, so no engine overheating to discover you're low on coolant. <G>
Michael Moder

At least its a an easy cheap fix
Graham M V

Yes - I ordered one today from B&G. £12.95 against £19.95 at Moss (or something like that).

I'm sure B&G was more expensive a few years ago - but perhaps that was for things that need to be more expensive. As so many do.

For the moment, I've used a horrible-looking concoction of tape and polythene to protect the distributor. It will all fall off, but perhaps not until the next few days' trials are over.

Sorry Russ - Cherry Scoop is my Frogeye; I didn't make a new tag for this Board. Probably I should just stick to name and location . . . . but then I wouldn't hear about delicious dreamy fantasies like yours!
Nick

Nick, I had the same problem with my MGB last summer, and the valve was leaking so much that the car would not even run. I had to be towed home on the back of a flat bed tow truck. Since that time I now carry a spare heater valve in all of my MGs.

Andy
60 MGA Coupe
67 MGB Roadster
74 MGB GT
Andy Preston

I can't help but add a couple of comments on heater valves.

1) You can replace just the 'top' part. Remove the rivet and then rotate the stamped bit off the cast bit, and the gasket and assorted other stuff comes with the stamped bit. This can then be put on the cast bit that is still attached to the engine (after removing the corresponding parts there). Replace the rivet with a sheet metal screw or another rivet. More info at http://www.britishcarforum.com/bobmuenchausen/12245.html

2) Consider using a ball valve instead of the funky rubber diaphragm valve. More info at http://www.britishcarforum.com/bobmuenchausen/12272.html
Dave McCann

Thanks all. The new valve arrived this morning, so maybe tomorrow. Though the weather has improved enormously here, and the golf course beckons. . . . . . . .
Nick

This thread was discussed between 28/02/2010 and 02/03/2010

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