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MG MGA - Lift the dots

Which way does the lift-the dot backing plate fix? the plates are slightly dished with 4 projections pushed out to the convex side. Does the smooth side go to the fabric?
Art Pearse

The teeth that go thru the fabric sit IN the indentations to avoid them scratching the paintwork
dominic clancy

So, the protruding bits go next to the body?
Art Pearse

I tried to wait until the very end of the hood work before I fitted the LTDs but I wish I had been more patient and waited longer because one of the sockets is slightly off leaving a small crease in the rear hood.

Don't forget Art that once the LTDs are in you will have to live with the modified hood bar.............Mike
m.j. moore

Yes
N McG

Convex side of the bottom plate (with protrusions) goes toward the fabric. Concave side of the plate (with indentations) goes toward the body. The indentations accept the bent-over tabs, so the tabs will be flush and not scratch the paint.
Barney Gaylord

Not sure I understand Barney. the indentations (protrusions) are only about 1mm square, and the tabs are much bigger, plus they are not close to the tabs.
as far as I can see, what keeps the fastener away from the paint is the location of the groove on the peg, which makes it all stand off a bit.
Art Pearse

The tabs are toward the body....I have never had one actually touch the paint, because of the wide area on the peg....
If you chalk the tips of the pegs as you go, and just touch them with the fabric, you will know where the hole in the fabric will be located.
Edward
E B Wesson

This thread got me scurrying into the garage to check my tonneau. With my luck I normally have things round the wrong way, but hooray, for once done correctly!

Steve
Steve Gyles

Hi Art:
If you are installing lift-the-dots do not cut the tab holes with an exacto knife - use a small hole punch that is the same diameter as the tab. The lift-a-dot will hold much better under stress. Use a larger punch that is just bigger than the peg for the center hole. I prefer this to even using a custom lift-the-dot punch. A little dab of paint or upholsterers black chalk on the top of the peg will allow you to exactly place the lift-a-dot. Do not attempt to stretch the material too tight as it will shrink a bit over time. When done, do not press the lift-a-dot down over the beg too far; it is designed to sit at the necked part of the peg - it will last longer and not mark the paint this way.
Use your punch to make a little gasket from inner tube rubber to place under the peg and put a drop of silicon on the threads when you screw it in - just tight enough to squash the rubber a bit. This will water proof the hole and prevent the paint from chipping or cracking.
Godspeed in Safety Fast
Jc
John Crawley

John, the tabs are flat. Why use a round punch?
Art Pearse

I just mark the position with the tabs, (by pressing the plate against the material), and punch the tab holes with an awl...The center hole for the peg is best done with a hole punch. Just take your time, and make sure about the peg position, before you punch the holes.
Edward
E B Wesson

This thread was discussed between 05/06/2014 and 14/06/2014

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