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MG MGA - Localised Paint system failure

I had my mga taken to bare metal and then respayed 'professionally' at great expense ..about $A10000... 12 years ago and within about 4 years noted some local 'Lifting' in an area to one side of the bonnet ( hood?). I should have followed up then but didn't …An area about 3 in by 3 in split and lifted a short time ago ( see pic attached..the two pale pieces are the the backs of the lifted paint ). There are a few other pimple size areas adjacent where similar can happen but nowhere as big. It would appear the paint system has failed to adhere in this one area . It must have been late Friday pm for the painter!
All the lifting in in the same area..the rest of the paint job incl the adjacent wheel wing is fine and looks good.The paint was a two pack baked enamel.
I want to get my beauty back to near pristine and would truly appreciate any ideas on how to go about it..incl. if i could do it my fair self.

Neil Ferguson

Is the grey area where the paint has lifted bare metal? If it is then the primer coat has failed to stick and it is probably due to a local spillage of oil or something similar which wasn't properly cleaned off before spraying.
The thing that worries me about the shape of lifted area is that you may find that the surrounding adhesion is also poor and that the size of the original contaminated area might be a lot larger.

I would say it is highly likely that the fault can be blamed on the painting shop but whether you could get any redress after such a long time is doubtful.

If the paint system were cellulose then it would be a fairly easy job to repaint providing you have bags of patience but I've no experience with two-pack paints. .................Mike
m.j. moore

Mike--it is totally bare metal( and the primer is attached to the hi build paint. I agree with your comment re a local 'spillage'. I don't think the area is much larger ..i have tested the perimeter and adhesion away from the spot is good.
Neil Ferguson

Neil, how hot does that supercharger get?
Neil McG

Agree with the thoughts above. Most paint shops would have used a high etch primer which contains phosphorous and attachs itself to the bare metal chemically. It is either a local spillage that prevented the etch primer from bonding or that area was flatted back after priming and most of the primer was removed.

Would suggest that the best way to rectify would be to take it to a paint shop as you will not be able to replicate the finish and feather in the paint at home....
A Stojanovic

neil…..the problem started to show way before I fitted the supercharger ( I also fitted a supplementary fan in the duct adjacent to the radiator to blow extra air down past the compressor to the air inlet).

I am going to experiment on another piece of bare steel to see if i can get a good finish..if no luck ..then to a good paint shop . I have just found a tin of paint given to me by the original painter ..queries.
..can two pack paint come as a single mix in a tin?
..will it be any good after 13 years?

Any other suggestions/comments?

Neil Ferguson

The paint in the tin will need to be mixed with activator before spraying, in order to cure properly afterwards. It can also be used for touch-ins (chips and minor scrapes) straight from the tin, without activator, as it will also air dry. Air drying takes longer and the paint is not as hard so is not suitable for spraying or for large areas.

looking at the picture it is hard to tell, has the metal been repaired in that area? The paint looks pretty thick suggesting there could be a skim of filler. It could be the filler that didn't adhere properly. Difficult to tell from that picture.

Once all the loose paint is removed and the metal is cleaned and abraded you can repair the area. Up to you what you use, choose from body filler, etch primer, primer filler etc. As it was sprayed in 2k, you will need to use 2k products to prevent sink lines appearing afterwards. Preparation is as always the secret of good paint finish. The top coat is the easy part, but blending or cutting in can be tricky!
Neil McG

You could use a roller for the paint. You are going to flat sand it anyway.
Art Pearse

This thread was discussed between 14/04/2014 and 15/04/2014

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