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MG MGA - My new paint job

Hi folks. Well, I FINALLY painted my roadster. I painted it in my Aunt's garage! Considering the dusty workspace, cooler than ideal temperature, and using a borrowed spray gun, I think it turned out OK. There is a bit of orange peel, a few small fisheyes, a bit of dust, and a few small runs in the front valence which are hidden by the bumper. My question is: Does anyone have any experience or comments on me potentially wet sanding, and then buffing the paint, to eliminate the flaws? The paint is catalyed acrylic enamel (non metallic) Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers, Glenn

Glenn Hedrich

I used System One on my reciently completed Austin Healey restoration. This was my first try at color sanding and it worked fine. The owner was very helpful with my questions. If it is just small imperfections you can sand them out with 2000 grit an buff out. I sourround the blemish with masking tape to limit the amount of sanding and buffing. Have a good day!

John
John Progess

I've got a yellow car Glenn!

Lindsay Sampford

Good effort Glenn. A great improvement on the rusty white. Hope Aunt enjoys her new yellow garage!

Post a photo when it's finished.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Glenn,
Enamel is not normally buffed, like you do with laquer or clear coat, but it can be done. There may be some risk. I put some info below...

Good luck!
Gerry

http://www.repairnation.com/paint_n_bodywork/faq/paint_body_faq5.htm

Q. Can I buff out enamel paint or another single-stage paint?
A.You can but it's not recommended. When you spray a single stage paint a thin layer of UV protectant forms on it's surface. It helps prevent oxidizing and increases the longevity of the paint's gloss. If you wetsand and buff the paint, you will remove that layer and it will oxidize much faster. If you have a few runs or other imperfections in the side of your paint, you don't have much choice but to buff out the imperfections. But just for the sake of buffing the car out, I'd strongly advise against it.

I'll share a buffing story with you: Several years ago when I was still learning the craft, I had a collector car that I sprayed with a single-stage urethane paint. It looked good but there was dust in the paint that annoyed me. So, I sanded and buffed the hood, trunk lid, and tops of fenders to improve it's appearance. Within three months a layer of oxidation formed on the buffed area (entire upper part of the car) and it became dull and unsightly (for a collector car). I buffed it again and it looked good -- but for only about 3 months. I got myself into a cycle of having to buff off the oxidation before every car show to make it appear presentable again. I would have been better off spraying the car over. Had I used a basecoat/clearcoat paint in the first place, I could have buffed it successfully and it would stay shiny because the clearcoat finish is the UV protecting layer and is much thicker and can be buffed w/o oxidation problems. That's why I always recommend to beginners that want to do a good paint job to use a basecoat/clearcoat. If you get mistakes, you can fix them.
G T Foster

Looks nice Glenn.
When the time comes I plan to spray mine in BRG using acrylic laquer (mainly to avoid isocyanates) from Trinity 1945 paints
http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_lacquer_paint.html
Should I add a clear coat?
Art Pearse

Looks great Glenn. Very mellow yellow.
Bill Young

Hi Art. Are you putting that new lacquer paint over an old enamel paint job? If so, you will have LOTS of problems! The laquer based paint will soften, blister, wrinkle and lift the old enamel paint faster than you can say MG! You could try a sealer, before spraying the lacquer, but it doesnt always eliminate the problem. Personally, I would opt for a straight catalysed acrylic enamel. Yes, It uses isocyanates in the catalyst. But if you get a decent respirator rated for use with isocyanates, you shouldnt have a problem. I picked up a decent respirator for about $40.00 from an auto paint supply place in Waterloo. Im still alive, and breathing, so it must have worked, lol. You do need to make sure that the respirator fits your face well, or you will suck in dangerous fumes. Personally, I hate clear coat! I find that it deteriorates, turns hazy, peels, and is impossible to feather edge. Just my 2 cents worth. Yes, my Aunt's garage floor is also viper racing yellow. Fortunately she doesnt care! Yes, I will post photos when my roadster when it is back together. The yellow paint in my photo has a bit of a "greenish" tinge due to the fluorescent lighting. It is in fact VERY yellow. (Viper racing yellow) Thanks for all the kind comments and info! GLenn
Glenn Hedrich

Here is a great source to ask questions about painting. I joke that it is the "MGA Guru" of autobody.

http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php
WMR Bill

Glenn,
That is SOME yellow!!
I imagine it will look great when the entire car is fitted up.
I understand that most problems with clearcoat are the result of waiting too long to spray it, and that it should be sprayed over the basecoat within 12 hours of completion of the basecoat.
Mike Parker

Hi Mike. Yes, it is a very bright yellow! I think it will look great when the chrome and black interior go back on. Actually, the problems I have experienced with clearcoat have been with factory finishes! I have found that clearcoat deteriorates, turns milky, and peels off in chunks. The remaining clearcoat is almost impossible to feather edge, and just keeps coming off as you sand, creating a worse mess! I would NEVER spray a vehicle using the base/clear system, even though it is what all the professionals seem to recommend these days. Catalyed acrylic enamel has a beautiful gloss, dries hard, wears like iron, and is quite easy to apply. The only downside is the isocyanates, but most base /clear paint systems use them too. Just my 2 cents worth, Glenn
Glenn Hedrich

I did an MGA in a similar color, Corvette yellow c 1972. Everyone said I was insane when I proposed it. When done, 80% of the people who saw it thought it was the best thing ever, even most of the "red sportscar" crowd. Hardly got to drive it around the block before it was sold. Black interior. I'd give you a pic, but I only have slides, and no way to computerise them.

I have no idea what "clearcoat" actually is today, but I think it's a horrid water based BS. It absolutely sucks, especially on (or more likely OFF) 80's cars.

I used to routinely use finish coats of clear over acrylic lacquer, especially metallics. You cannot color sand a metallic, since it exposes various layers where the reflectivity is different. We just knocked off any nubs, cleared it, and wet sanded with 600, which was the finest there was then. Hand polished with #7 rubbing compound, followed by their polishing compound. Never had the slightest problem with my clear. That was pre-catalyst times.

I also did acrylic enamel, PPG, R&M, DuPont, with clear topcoat to match - no problem there either. Some of the R&M and PPG cars I did are just loosing their gloss after 35+ years outside, never polished or waxed. DuPont not so good - acid rain removes it!

PPG Delstar acrylic enamel still exists, as the main part of a catalytic system. It started out non catalyzed, and the first catalysts were optional add-ins. I don't know if the formulation is still the same. I would use it as it used to be for a driver any day over any other paint. I find that the catalyzed paints are so tough that any damage that lets moisture get down to the metal causes the moisture to be trapped, leading to mobile cancer under the paint. Much worse than damage to the plain Delstar, which certainly lasts as long as anything else on the car.

It gonna be SPECTACULAR, Glenn! Congratulations.

FRM
FR Millmore

This thread was discussed between 09/10/2009 and 11/10/2009

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