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MG MGA - POR-15

Hi all,

I'm contemplating the use of some rust conversion/prevention paints when I complete sections of the rolling resto on the 1960 coupe. I've always wondered about the claims made by these companies.

POR-15 is one product that seems to always feature highly in any searching I undertake. Has anyone had any experience with it? Are the claims an exaggeration of the benefits? Is it best to spray or brush?

Does anyone have a recommendation on a better product?

cheers

Brad C
B Cronk

I brushed 2 heavy coats on the frame and other metal parts. 3 years on and holding up great. I personally felt I could get thicker coats on by brushing than spraying. If you use this product cover yourself well. This stuff doesn't wash off with paint thinner.
Lmazoway

Brad
I used it on the sills and splash guards and it went on great with a brush, good gloss finish. Not sure I would not like to try and get it off as it sticks to everything and sets hard. I used the cleaner and etch product that they recommend to prepare the metal.
It took a week to get off my skin, cover up well
Rob
R J Watson

I also recommend POR15. Brush or spray, the finish looks great. Easier to spray to get in all the tight spots. It is a very hard finish for sure.
G Goeppner

I totally agree with the above. Use their Metal Etch also.
David Werblow

Brilliant. Do I need to use their thinners to spray it?
B Cronk

POR is great stuff, but a couple words of caution...

Don't get it on your skin...once it dries the only thing that will remove it is time...lots of time

Once you open a can it starts to cure. Refridgeration can help slow it.

If you get any on the lip of the can and put the lid on without using something like plastic wrap, once it dries you'll never get if off again.

Be very careful spraying this stuff. You don't want to breath any of it...even the vapor can be harmful.
I normally use foam brushes and throw them away when done. They will glue themselves to any container you leave them in and I've never found a solvent that works well.

POR is not UV resistant. If you put it on an exposed surface, it will chalk up quickly.

Cheers,
GTF
G T Foster

Actually there is a solvent/thinner that works to clean POR-15 from your skin: http://www.por15.com/SOLVENT/productinfo/SVQ/

I've used it and it worked great...but it's the only thing that would touch it.
Gene Gillam

Masterseries MCU silver primer is better, half or less the price. They also have topcoats exactly as POR15, also at half price.
I've used both, Masterseries wins on all counts.
Masterseries is an industrial product, designed for bridges and such that have to be done under less than ideal conditions, and is likely available in other parts of the world, if you cannot ship it - though it seems to come without haz labels etc.
POR 15 is a heavily marketed version of the same stuff "moisture cured urethane", except they do not have the silver primer, which has electrolytic anti corrosion functions.

Comes from a guy named Chuck, at NasterseriesCT.com He is a VW restorer and a really good guy to deal with. The website is hokey, but everything said on it is true, in my experience. I looked on the website, and got a price = 1/2 $ of POR, so called to order. He quoted me a lower price than his own website. I asked how I should pay, he said he'd send a bill with the shipment. I decided to increase the order, and he lowered the unit price. When the stuff arrived, the bill was for less than the lowest quoted price!

It is easiest to use a foam brush, but can be sprayed. If there are three molecules left in the spray gun, you throw it away, because you will NOT be able to get it out or off! The only chemical that even touches it is straight methylene chloride, which is very hard to find nowadays. Brake fluid, fuel, battery acid do nothing. Stuff can only be removed by grinding. Works under any topcoat. Also used for dealing gas tanks.

Bonus: if you spray the silver primer and then clearcoat over that, you get a near perfect copy of the OE Dunlop wheel paint, except it does not change to grey after a few months, as the OE did.

FRM
FR Millmore

Agree with everything Millmore said. I've used it and love the way it spreads on silky smooth with a foam brush. Tough as nails.

--Jack
JM Morris

My experience with POR-15 is like others', but it should be noted that its value is protective (resisting mechanical damage and moisture penetration) and not as a rust converter. For that you would need some phosphoric acid product (commonly marketed as "naval jelly"). You can use POR-15 right over the phosphate-coated metal after a phosphoric acid treatment; the "pickled" surface is already etched for the POR-15.

Ken
Ken Korey

This thread was discussed between 12/02/2013 and 17/02/2013

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