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MG MGA - Rear axles and re-assembly

On my current complete restoration, I am assembling the diff/axle. ..all original parts, just new bearings and paint etc. The diff was re-conditioned, with a new crown wheel and pinion. My problem now is that when inserting the axles into the diff, they stop short at the hub by about 3/16". If you move the axle back and forward a litle, there is a metallic sound, so the inner end of the axle is hitting metal. Every part except the CW&P is original. A wire wheel car BTW.
Any advice please.
Gary Lock

That's a bit weird
Both axles the same 3/16" or one ok one not
Have the axles been out of the splined hubs
William Revit

Have you tried taking the diff back out of the axle casing and looked to see what is happening when you insert the shafts into the axle casing without the diff in place and (on the bench) into the diff itself?
Dominic Clancy

Could be the wheel bearing is not pressed all the way to the shoulder in the rotating hub. That is, when assembled the bearing is secure in the correct position on the axle housing, but the rotating hub is too far inboard, because it is not mated correctly with the bearing.

For Disc Wheel cars, there is a spacer ring on the outboard side of the outer bearing race. For Wire Wheel cars, this spacer ring is not used, because there is a shoulder machined on the splined hub to serve the same purpose.

The thickness of this ring, or the height of the shoulder on the WW hub, is the distance the outer bearing race needs to be pushed into the rotating hub beyond the flush front face of the hub.





barneymg

Gary, are the hubs installed on the axles? I'm trying to imagine where the 3/16 gap is occurring.
Art
Art Pearse

Problem solved guys. Bearings not pressed all the way in! I've done a few of these in the past, and the bearings were relatively easy to press in, but these latest ones were an absolute pain to do.
Gary Lock

Another tick for Barney.
Mike Ellsmore

This thread was discussed between 26/05/2020 and 28/05/2020

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