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MG MGA - Rear bearing hub carrier removal

Anyone , HELP...

any info as to HOW to safely remove the rear bearing hub carrier?

The Right hand side just slipped out!

The LEFT is a real pig. Even my kelpie ran from the shed at the language! and she KNOWS a whole heap bad $%*&!

I've tried the big screw driver wedge, nothing.... and am loathe to break out the blue wrench, but is that the option?

Or do I need to locate a fancy puller?

Help keep my girl kelpie "nice".

Mark
M THOMPSON

Mark, you didnt specify whether it's the nut that's the pig. If so you have to remember that it has a left hand thread. If per chance you have been unable to pull the hub plus the bearing, then you definately need a proper puller to get it out.

Frank
F. Camilleri

Thanks Frank

I have removed the nut, so I guess I need THAT special puller.

Is there a particular puller required, or can I use a regular wheel puller -
The problem with my current puller is that the pin that would exert the pressure has nothing to press against as the shaft is removed etc.
Is there are a particular tool that fits the centre?
Mark

M THOMPSON

Mark,
I have not had reason to remove any of the hubs on my A, so not sure what kind of puller you need. I would think however that you need a hub puller. Maybe someone on this forum can help you out possibly post a picture of the appropriate hub puller suitable for your needs.

Frank
F. Camilleri

A slide hammer. Rent one from one of the DIY parts stores

R J Brown

I use a slide hammer too, takes a couple of strokes and the hub is off the car. Not expensive either.
dominic clancy

Mark

I have the same job ahead of me this weekend. I was assuming that you need a bar across the end of the axle casing for the centre pin on the puller to press against. I was planning to use a rectangular bar rather than a disc.

I was wondering if the hub will release before the cross bar bottoms on something on the hub as it comes off?

John


John Francis

Hi John

All off and out.

I found a very large 3/4" drive hex socket that fitted EXACTLY over the hollow threaded shaft and used a small wheel puller.
( the 3/4" to 1/2" square driver adapter also filled the hole in the 3/4" socket)

Several turns of the puller and the bearing housing popped.
No banging, just nice and quiet - it was 1.00am after all.

Just lucky , as the socket is one that I have never used and can't ever recall buying- all my sockets are 1/2" drive.

But it has just become a "keeper" along with the very strange 1 61/64" OCTAGON socket spanner from Moss.

I had looked at the need to go to my local steel guy and source a short piece of tube to do the same job.
M THOMPSON

Hi Mark

I managed to get mine apart at the weekend too but it was hard work with the puller. The bearing was really tight on the axle casing. Incidentally I put it back again because I wanted to take the car out briefly. When I took it off again I noticed that the bearing was not fully up against the shoulder and this allowed the hub to float slightly. The bearing O/D is a slide fit in the hub which allowed it to float.

I had knocked the bearing onto the casing quite hard, not sure if there is a better way than tapping it on, and had really tightened up the octagonal nut very very tight. So I was surprised to see the float on the hub.

I noticed that the company that fitted the last oil seal had hit the seal in three places which distorted the seal roundness slightly. I am not sure if this caused the leak but it seems possible.

The seal surface on the casing looks in reasonably good condition with no groove so I am bit surprised that the original seal prior to the last replacement failed.

To do the job properly I think one needs a tubular drift to fit the inner race of the bearing.

John

John Francis

This thread was discussed between 02/09/2011 and 05/09/2011

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