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MG MGA - Shut face panel

I'm a bit confused about this part. I don't think I have one. The DPO had brazed the front of the rear fenders to the door pillars. When I dismantled it about 12y ago (!) I had to use he grinder to separate them. I can repair the damaged fenders fairly easily. There is a lot of filler on the front face of the B pillars. So, please correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume the SFP fits over the front face of the pillar, and the SFP outer flange covers the fender flange which in turn sits on the front edge of the pillar. There are screws involved? And how are the SFP inner and bottom edges secured? Is it removeble , to allow the fender to be removed?
Art Pearse

Hi Art. Yes, you are correct, the shut face panel fits over the face of the pillar, and is attached with several screws. Yes the shut face panel is removeable. Used original SFP's fit much better than the aftermarket ones! Try and find a pair of old ones on Ebay, or perhaps someone here would have a set for sale? I am ataching a picture of my shut faces, so you know what they look like. Cheers, Glenn

Glenn Hedrich

Thanks Glenn. A picture is worth 1000 words! So, are there supposed to be captive nuts inside the pillar and the rocker, for the screws or are they self tappers?
And how are those 2 gaps in the edge of the SFP covered?
Art Pearse

Useing Glens picture as a guide. The 3 counter sunk holes in the edge use oval head machine screws going in to captive nuts in the pillar. The 2 square holes in the edge are for the rubber door buffers. The rubber pieces have metal plates inside them for flat head machine screws. In this Moss picture parts 35,36,37. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29245
At the bottom edge, past the curve, you can just see 2 holes. Oval head sheet metal screws hold it to the top of the rocker panel.
Hope this helps.
Randy
PS if anyone knows for sure. Are the screws oval head as I remember or flat head?
Bright yellow John here in Denver would approve! Animal house revisited?
R J Brown

All,
You'll find exceptionally accurate well made sheetmetal replacements including both styles of shutfaces here. their A & B pillars are perfect! I've used both.
www.kas-kilmartin.com.au/
The screws are Chromed OVAL.
Doug
D Sjostrom

There are 3 styles of shutface panels that I know of. Coupe, roadster, and MK11 roadster. The top of the MK11 roadsters has a water drain shape.
R J Brown

Glenn, or anyone, do you have a picture of the rear fender front flange, to help me rebuild mine?
Art Pearse

Hi Art. This is the only photo of the rear fender that I have. I hope it is of some use. Cheers, GLenn

Glenn Hedrich

Art
When I return to work on monday I can take pictures of the rear fenders at any angle you would like.
R J Brown

Thanks Glenn. RJ - any pics of that flange area under the SFP are what I'm looking for. Glenns shows the side. Can you do the top bit?
Many thanks.
Art Pearse

Picture from inside.

R J Brown

Outside picture.
Any picture you need just ask.

R J Brown

Thanks RJ. That helps a lot!
Art
Art Pearse

The two wide notches are clearance for the rubber door buffers. The three small notches are clearance for some of the screws securing the SF plate. If you loosen these three screws you can (or should be able to) R&R a rear fender without removing the SF panel. Those screws go into floating cage nuts, so corrosion there will often result in great difficulty in loosening the screws without serious damage to the nut mounting inside the post.

The SF panel has slots for the rubber buffers,so you have to remove the buffers before removing the SF panel. Removing the buffers can often be a PITA due to corroded screws and the fact that the nut plate is held (loosely) within the rubber buffer. This can be aggravated by recent replacement nut plates being made of aluminum (rather than steel), which promotes galvanic corrosion to make it impossible to remove the screws later.

Art, -- Since your fenders were previously DPO'd by brazing, there is a high probability that your door posts have some other problems, like broken or missing captive nuts or damaged pockets for the buffers or pocket for the striker nut plate. Repairing that sort of stuff requires opening up the post to do repairs inside. That is also an opportunity to repair damaged float nuts that secure the rag top frame.
Barney Gaylord

You are correct Barney! the pillar front on the side I am doing first is basically OK except for the screw plates and fixings at the edge. the striker fixing is OK. On the other side, same situation except it has had a meeting with another object and the pillar and door are dented. Door weighs half a ton with bondo. So my plan is to get new old doors, SF panels, body back on frame. Fit door and rear fender, then tack in place the new sill beams I'm making from your patterns.
Art Pearse

This thread was discussed between 09/10/2009 and 13/10/2009

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