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MG MGA - THAT fabulous aluminium cleaner?

Has anyone a "brand-name" abo-fabo aluminium stripper/cleaner ( or aluminum for those that don't use English).

The sort that has made my Sierra 9 gearbox look as if it has just been made?
And it is a joy to behold- how tragic is THAT! I keep walking out the verandah just to gaze in wonder at its pristine beauty.

The restorer is coy about his cleaner/stripper and as there are always a few bits on the A that look their best cleaned up- and not wanting to use bead blasting to belt the living daylights out of my carbs etc, I was wondering if others had tips?

And anything that is available "down-under" is a bonus.

So I guess that the "base" element/chemical is the best answer?
M THOMPSON

Hi,

I don't know what the cleaner is, but I had my carbs dipped in a ball bearing tank to shine them up, and it did a pretty good job.

Not sure if you've got it down there yet, but soda blasting is starting to be used here quite a bit - using baking soda instead of sand/grit (although it wouldn't cook with it afterwards). It removes all the cr@p and leaves the metal untouched (alledgedly).

good luck,

Grant :-)

PS for thopse non-English speaking bods, "verandah" is posh for patio / terrace ;-)
G Hudson

Hi,

Alloy wheel cleaner works really well on aluminium, comes up as new really clean.

Regards
Alan
A.R. Terry

If there is some "magic" aluminium surface restorer on the market, I would like to get hold of some and try it out.

I want to remove or at the very least, reduce the corrosion on the inside surface of a spare boot lid (trunk lid) that I would like to repaint.

I have heard of a product that is supposed to do this but no one I know can put a name to it.

Cheers

Colyn
Colyn Firth

Boiling CLR solution ("Calcium, Lime Rust") I think it is citric acid mainly.
Art Pearse

Colyn,

I believe that a very fine abrasive mixed with "Elbow Grease" might do the trick ;-)

Grant
G Hudson

Simichrome has been around forever and it works wonders on aluminum. I used it to polish the aluminum on my motorcycles 40 years ago, and still use it today. http://www.simichrome-polish.com/
Jeff Schultz

I have used with great results phosphoric acid based "rust remover". It is usually sold in a pink liquid or gel form and sold as naval jelly or rust remover. It basically etches metal (takes a bit of the surface off) then neutralizes with water. It is designed for steel so you must try it on a small area first if used on aluminum to see how it reacts to see how much time to leave it on before rinsing as all alloys are slightly different. Make sure you scrub it off really well with a brush and not leave any in creavices or it will keep on doing its job. Aluminum will turn out like brand new as it removes all oxidation. Wear safety goggles and gloves also. It ecthes metal for pre painting prep very well also. I would not recommend dipping carb dashpots in it as it takes a tiny bit of the surface off and could undersize the inside of them if left too long. Just remember that if left bare aluminum oxidizes rapidly so your "new" aluminum won't last forever.
Matt
MG Grover

My transmission was seriously caked with a mixture of oil and road grime, as in up to 1/4" thick in some areas. I used a plastic scraper to remove most, and then went over it with a couple big spray cans of WD-40 and a stainless steel wire brush. That cleaned it right up. It isn't like a "new" as cast surface, but at least it got all of the crap off, so I can use whatever additional treatment to try re-creating the "new" appearance if I so choose. And actually, it looks pretty good now, so I may not bother.
Del Rawlins

My guess would be Simichrome or Autosol.

Autosol is a great all around polishing paste for metals.

Aluminum cleans up really well with a brass wire brush on a drill or buffer. Don't use a steel brush.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

This thread was discussed between 19/05/2010 and 24/05/2010

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