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MG MGA - Wire Wheel hub removal

I'm having a really hard time removing the rear wheel hubs off my wire wheel '61 MGA. I had a custom eight sided 1-61/64" socket made, removed the tab washer , and for the life of me with a 2 arm puller and a 3 arm puller and even penetrating lubricant I cant get the hub to budge. Is there something I am over looking ? Or some trick others have used ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Chris Velardi

Its only the big octagon nut retaining the hub. Keep pulling. Be careful not to damage the end of the axle casing - use a thick piece of steel to bridge the end hole. I made a four arm puller - 2 pieces of angle with holes drilled for the studs.
Art Pearse

I just used a piece of 1/4" thick flat bar with 2 holes to match the hub bolt spacing - packed the bar out with a few 1 1/2" OD heavy flat washers and just tightened the nuts holding the bar evenly - once you get a bit of tension on the bar (bends slightly) give it a wack with a BFH. It worked for me.
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Right now I have a 1" thick piece of oak (against hub) and a 1/8" piece of steal bolted to the piece of oak to survive the point of the puller. I'm assuming heat would destroy the oil seal or make it even harder to remove.
Chris Velardi

Have a look at this set-up - as long as you a pulling and pushing on the right bits it will ... come lose.
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/18G304.htm
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Which side are you trying to remove..don't forget, the LH side has a left hand thread, and must be turned the opposite way....this has fooled many!
Gary Lock

Chris, sorry about last thread..just realised you have the nuts off already.
Gary Lock

I would take away the wood, I know being oak its a hard wood but its still has some give unlike steel, I wound aslo take on board coments already made,re putting the hub under a lot af tension while protecting the threads then giving it a good bang with a hammer,(the hammer blow makes a big difference)if your not sure where to hit it try hitting the puller itself to put a shock wave through the hub, hope this makes sence
V Rafter

If worse comes to worse there is an origional hub puleer unit for sale on ebay in the MGA listing. A bit expensive thought...around $200.00
Gordon Harrison

That's a bit too expensive for my wallet for a one time use, I may make up a flat bar pusher type hub remover instead of the 3 arm puller. Also try the big hammer ;-)
Chris Velardi

Chris, I looked at the pictures on your web site. It is hard to see what that large chunk of wood is bearing on, but you must ditch it. Use a socket or a pipe tube (something round) so that the threaded (center) of the pulley bears only on the axle housing (the threaded part). I use a 30mm socket and a two arm puller. You will be pulling the bearing with the hub. The bearing is removed after the hub. Use some heat and don't worry about the seal as this will need to be replaced anyway.
James Johanski

You need a sliding hub puller that bolts on to the hub studs. Your local shop should be able to lend one to you for half a day, if they are the friendly type. With a sliding puller (a large weight slides along a shaft about 2 feet long) it will take you 2-3 minutes per side.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Just ordered a slide hammer (with adaptors) Thanks for the advice
Chris Velardi

Finally received my Slide Hammer today in the mail and 4 to 5 slides per side and the Hubs came right off. Thanks to all for the advice. Also found the one side that had been leaking, the seal was spaced about a 1/2 " off the face of the seal (the non leaking side was flush right up against the seal)
Chris Velardi

This thread was discussed between 28/05/2009 and 09/06/2009

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