MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - 74 1/2 Mgbgt motor mount

Has anyone sliced through the round style motor mount and removed the pieces that way?

Any thoughts, tips or caveats with this method compared to removal in the accepted manner.

Brian
Brian Smith

No need to cut through them , just undo the mounts off the engine/chassis and lift the engine a bit and pull it out . Passenger side is easy ,Driver side--usual method is to remove the rack to get the shaft out of the way , but it can be done without removing the rack if you want to make it hard for yourself---just get a skinny wrench up in there and loosen it then screw the mount out while holding the nut with your wrench
Putting it back in isn't quite as easy but doable
There's a square plate up in there as well that has to be held in position, jam the nut into your spanner with some paper or something to hold it up in there and screw the mounting into it --Don't tighten it right up just leave it just a turn off from tight, sit the engine back down and do all the other bolts etc up then just tighten this last one up,-fiddly but doable
willy
William Revit

Thanks Willy. I have read about both methods and was checking the mounts out the other day and thought cutting through the rubber between the engine and body mount might just make removal easy.. I have redone all of the suspension bushings front and back and struggled with each and every one as things have been done in the past that created problems in taking apart and also installing new.

I look forward to better weather to test the car now that the suspension has been renewed. I have restored, rebuilt and repaired MGs since 1968 and know how they should drive but this one just didn't feel right.

Back to motor mounts, the passenger side (LH drive) has obviously been replaced at some time in the recent past but the drivers side is very bad so the plan was/is to change both and be done with it. I have enough equipment and tools to do either of the methods you mentioned, just looking for an easy way that doesn't require this old body to contort any more than it has to ;>)

Brian
Brian Smith

Brian. I changed our the mounts on my 79, similar to your model, several years ago. I used the Moss "standard" part and it broke, on the driver's side, within six months. Changed the mounts out for the "heavy duty" models and they have held up for over ten years. Suggest using the heavy duty mount. A box end wrench (ring spanner) with the center section cut away to fit over the bolt, is easier to use for this procedure than a standard open end wrench. Les
Les Bengtson

Thanks Les, I did purchase the heavy duty mounts figuring they might last longer so glad to hear they do. Thanks for the tip regarding modifying a ring spanner. I guess I know what I am doing next week!

Brian
Brian Smith

I'm not sure why one would want to, you still have to remove the nuts and bolts to remove the two halves. They can be changed in-situ - V8 ones at least, just by raising the engine, and swapped over the engine brackets as they were handed but on the wrong sides.

The problem I did have was the nuts seized on the studs that go through the chassis mounts. I eventually got the right-hand one off with a pal pulling on a rope behind the car that was looped round the handle of a ring-spanner - tedious to say the least moving it half a flat at a time. The left hand one got so far than stuck solid, the rubber just twisted then spring back so I couldn't get it onto the next flat. For that I drilled through the edge of the rubber, the bottom plate and the chassis bracket intending to put a twist-drill through the hole to hold the bottom plate still. But the drill snapped off just as it went through so did the job anyway,
paulh4

I used a Sawzall to cut the rubber off....then use a grinder to remove the steel over the stud in the middle of the circle. Grind until you see the out line of the stud ...then knock the middle out with a punch...always worked for me and I bet I've done at least 25 of them over the years.

Goodluck!
S

This thread was discussed between 25/12/2020 and 31/12/2020

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG MGB Technical BBS now