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MG MGB Technical - Choke cable

I need to replace my choke cable because the inner is frayed. Can I just replace the inner? Replacing the outer seems a lengthy process.
Rod Merrall

You may be able to just replace the inner depending on where the fraying is and that the outer cable isn't also damage - but feeding or pulling through the new inner cable might be as much or more hassle than replacing both so not worth it.
Nigel Atkins

Yes, just disconnect it at the carbs and pull it out. Check the ends of the new cable are glued or soldered together so they don't splay out and feel it into the dash. When clamping the inner position it such that with the dash control fully pushed in the lever that either the inner or the outer lifts is angled downwards by about 30 degrees. That way as the dash control is pulled the choke lever will move from 30 degrees down to 30 degrees up. If it's too far down to start with then it will be hard to pull, and if it's too far up you won't get full enrichment.

But if it's a 'twist to lock' and failing to stay out there can be a couple of causes. One is the locking block in the dash-mounted part worn, although some replacements have been plastic instead of steel and don't last five minutes. If replacing the outer it's worth checking and making one out of an old bolt if it's plastic.

The spindle that pulls out also wears and would be fixed by a new inner, but there is a trick in fitting that helps counteract that. If you twist the knob anti-clockwise before the solid shaft of the dash end enters the dash fitting it will try and unwind itself, which is towards the locking direction and helps it stay locked. If it has a clockwise twist then it will always be trying unlock itself.

More info at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/fueltext.htm#choke
paulh4

When I replaced one recently I tinned the tip of the cable with a small amount of solder as Paul suggests. You just need a small amount of solder, but not so much that it increases the diameter of the cable preventing it running in the outer.

Having done this it will also prevent fraying in future and prevent the inevitable hand-spiking from wire strands from a frayed end whilst working on the carbs.

I've not tried glue.

R
Richard Thompson

Thanks for the advice. I have found it impossible to feed the new cable into the existing outer sleeve. To remove it I need to remove the face vents but am having some dificulties. I can lever the clips at the back from the side of the vents but where ther are close together at the middle I can't get them to release; is there a knack?
Rod Merrall

I've found that when replacing the inner cable one has to do it with a gentle twisting motion. When hitting an obstruction, such as at the end of the rigid portion where it meets the flexible outer, or where the outer is a bit kinked, then withdraw slightly, gently twist again, and hopefully the inner will go to the other side of the outer cable. Never force it. Obviously, as soon as the strands of the inner separate, you're on a hiding to nothing. In a perfect world, tinning the ends of the inner is the way to go.
Peter Allen

Yes, look at the twist in the inner and rotate the knob so as to tighten that twist, not loosen it, or the inner will expand. It may be that the outer has been trapped or distorted somewhere.

The first attached may be helpful. But don't bother with 1. as the vents just pull off the hoses when the tabs have been released.

I've only ever had to do anything with the top and bottom tabs near the centre. On an RHD reach up under the dash to grasp the back of the vent and gently lift the lower tab up with a small screwdriver and ease the bottom of the vent forwards to keep it released, then do the same with the other one and withdraw the vent.

With one of them out it's easy to depress the tabs with a finger from behind the panel to remove the second one.

When refitting orientate the hoses so the rectangular end fits in the vent.

You may not find the anti-rattle packing, there is none on my roadster but the V8 has strips of card glued as in the second attached. None of them rattle.





paulh4

Tanks for help. I managed to feed the new cable eventually.
Rod Merrall

Be sure to lightly oil the cable. This will be huge 15 years from now.
Glenn Mallory

This thread was discussed between 05/03/2022 and 23/04/2022

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