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MG MGB Technical - CHOKE KIT F/ WEBER DGV

My 1979 MGB has a Weber DGV with an electric activated choke. The choke does not close when I start the car cold. The carb is clean and the choke operates freely. The only way I get the choke to close is to remove the air fliter and close it by hand. The car starts right off in a snap. After that it runs fine and the choke opens as the engine warms up.

Yes, there is coil spring tension on the the choke when cold. The choke just will not close by itself when I first pump the carb on a cold start.

Also the fast idle cam will stick upon occasion after driving with the warmed engine.

Again, everything appears to be super clean and opeates freely.

Perhaps it is time to convert to manual choke cable system if such a kit is available on the market.

cheers

Gary
gnhansen

Gary,

I dont know how much help I can be in diagnosing the exact problem but... You can pick up another electric choke for under $20. Try lubing everything up and checking your linkage. There are manual chokes for it but the electric choke is much cheaper if it is in fact not working. Have you tried turning the position of the electric choke to the position you want it at and then tightening down the bolts ? Setting the choke to be fully open at the correct operating temp ???

-James
James

OK, the plot thickens. Further investigation reveals a "teardrop" shaped lever with a rectangular hole on the wide end and a hole on the narrow end attached to a link rod. The choke "butterfly" rod which spans width of the two venturi of the carburetor has a rectangular end extending beyond the venturi opening. The "teardrop" shaped lever has detached from the venturi choke "butterfly" rod (at the retangular end) and is hanging by the actuator rod from the spring loaded choke mechanism. It does not appear to have any clip or screw & washer set up to hold the "teardrop" lever to the "butterfly" rod.

The question is, how does the "teardrop" shaped lever remain attached to the "butterfly" rod. Obviously without this lever, the choke does not operate at all.

Any thoughts

Thanx in advance

Cheers
Gary
79 mgb
gnhansen

Gary. I managed to find my old electric choke DGEV carb. We replaced it, shortly after purchasing the car it was on, with a manual choke model DGV.

There is a tear drop shaped link piece which is either press fitted onto the choke butterfly rod or piened in place. Hard to tell without cleaning the area more than it is. The opposite end of the link piece has a small rod projecting from it with a circular recess turned into it near the end. The long, rectangular with rounded ends link from the electric choke goes up through the hole in the top cover, slips over the rod piece, and is held in place by a circlip/E-clip. The area of the top cover where the linkage comes upwars is a rectangular enclosure with one outside portion cut away to allow the rod holding the tear drop link and the rod itself to be removed from the top cover as an assembly.

Without having some form of jig or fixture to properly support the rod and the tear drop shaped link, I would simply clean everything well and use a little epoxy to secure the two pieces together. If that does not work, the choke system can be partially disassembled and the piece staked in place.

Les
Les Bengtson

Les

Thanx for the info. BTW, your opening sentence in your post tells me I was incorrect with my carburetor. Mine is a DGEV. The "E" part works fine albiet the teardrop lever issue.

It seems a real close fit for an e-clip. Is it possible to loosen the butterflies then shift the rod a bit to accommodate space for an e-clip?

I was thinking of "bushing" it with a very fine wire, much like one would find in a plastic bag tie stripped of the paper covering. Then remounting the lever to the rod. I am sure that would take up the slack.

cheers

Gary
79 mgb
gnhansen

Gary. I must not be making myself clear in my description here. The slightly smaller end of the tear drop piece has a short rod projecting from it. This rod has a groove turned into it which receives the "E" clip. The opposite end has a somewhat rectangular opening with rounded ends and fits over the projecting end of the circular rod which has the two choke "butterflies" inserted through it. The example before me seems to have had the tear drop piece placed over the choke butterfly rod and the end of the rod piened over slightly to hold the tear drop piece in place. No need for any other form of retention device, nor room for same.

Please remember that this is the attachment that I suggested might be epoxied in place.

Les
Les Bengtson

Les, I do realize the rectangular end was "peened" to hold the lever onto the "butterfly" rod. I was hoping to rig some sort of "E"-clip arrangement, but it does not look like that can happen. I apologize for the mis-communication (my error). So yes, the epoxy application may be the way to go with it.

My "bushing" idea failed.

I love these stubborn little cars. It keeps the creative juices flowing.

Again, thank you for your input.

cheers

Gary
gnhansen

OK, tried to "JB Weld" the teardrop lever to the choke "butterfly" rod, tried solder, tried to re-peen the rod end. All have failed.

So, does anyone have the rod and lever ass'y from a Weber DGEV they would like to sell. If so, please contact me at rosegary@optonline.net

Thanx in advance

Gary

79 MGB
gnhansen

Gary. Please visit my website, www.custompistols.com/ and contact me through it. Much better e-mail service than I list here. I have the DGEV that we pulled off my daughter's car after she drove my 79 with the manual choked DGV. Now, all three of our RB cars have the manual choke carbs and the old DGEV is laying around in pieces and not needed.

Les
Les Bengtson

This thread was discussed between 15/04/2009 and 07/05/2009

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