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MG MGB Technical - clutch

I just got my 79 MGB back from an unexpected long road trip and I think the clutch is out on it.
The clutch pedal is extremely week and the car barley moves.

Is it easier to pull the engine and transmission or can I just pull the transmission from underneath
rsf fowler

Are you sure the clutch is worn? Maybe the hydraulic clutchcilinder(s) are stuck somehow.

Otherwise it is an engine out job, I don't think it is possible to remove the 'box with the engine in situ without hacking out structural members.
It is not a difficult job, but you will need a good engine hoist, preferably with a leveler so you can adjust the angle of how the engine is hanging.

If you have an overdrive look on the 'net for modifications to the mount; it will save you a lot of time and foul language.....
Willem van der Veer

Actuly I am not sure.
I did not have much time to look at it last night.

I will do some more checking on it after work tonight.

No over drive

Will buy or rent a engin hoist if needed
rsf fowler

Pull the engine on its own which is a far easier job than having to dismantle the gearbox mountings which can be a nightmare. Just support the bell housing with a trolley jack move the engine forward and out. To refit it is sometimes beneficial to grind a 1/32 at 45 degree chamfer on the front of the input shaft then refit the engine always keeping the gap between the backplate and the bell housing parallel and push it back into place. It may be necessary to put a spanner on the front nut and turn it to align the splines to allow the engine back.
Iain MacKintosh

Could not help making a comment - make sure the garage/workshop floor is level when using the hoist! An obvious requirement. I thought my floor was level but it was not. The less expensive hoists are not very wide at the base between the legs with the rollers attached. It can be a less than pleasant experience!

/Moss
Moss

RSF - all good advice here. Although not the easiest way forward, it may be easiest in the long run to pull the engine with the gearbox. Iain is right to suggest taking the engine out and leaving the gearbox but sometimes (not always) it can be really difficult to mate the gearbox to the new clutch - so I suggest the long route - a whole weekend, the first time - everything out. Make a virtue of necessity - take the paintbrush to the tunnel.
R
Roger W

Also if you are pulling the engine and gearbox, jack up the rear end, it positions the car much better for removal and replacement.

Herb
Herb Adler

Hi RSF.

agree all good advice, but for me I prefer to pull engine only. Never had a problem mating any engine and gearbox.

Ronnie
RA Potter

Thanks for everyones advise
I just finished wheel bearings on my kids Kia a few minutes ago

Next on the to do list today is the MGB

I should know today weather its the clutch or slave cyl
I hope its just the slave
rsf fowler

"The clutch pedal is extremely week and the car barley moves."

Hydraulic problems would cause the first but not the second problem, and you wouldn't be able to engage gears with the engine running. Other failures like the release arm or bearing would cause the slave piston to be pushed out of the cylinder and the hydraulic fluid to be dumped on the floor after just a couple of pedal pushes.

The only thing that matches both those statements is if the cover plate has failed in some way, i.e. isn't pressing the friction plate against the flywheel as hard as it should, which will also make for a very light pedal, but no hydraulic loss. Check under the car while someone operates the pedal and you should see the slave push-rod and release arm moving back and fore about 1/2". If it's doing that, then there is nothing for it but engine out.
PaulH Solihull

Obviously it depends on the length of the strop/leveling device, but roughly what is the minimum headroom required to lift out the engine and box?
Michael Beswick

I put the car on jack stands and crawled under it
The undercarage was covered in oil
A brake line was leaking real bad.
The wife did not tell me she was putting in break fluid every day

I have ordered the line and some other parts.

I looked at the slave cyl and it seem to be working fine but the rubber boot on the trany is missing.

I belve what happened is break fluid got up into the clutch and it was slipping

I think the week bedal was just my perception becauase the clutch on mt VW is a lot harder

Anyway I have ordered the parts to fix the barkes and cleaned out the bell housing as best I can without tearing out the engine.


Thanks again for all your sugestions and ideas.



rsf fowler

"roughly what is the minimum headroom required to lift out the engine and box?"

If you can get the bonnet pulled back to the vertical that should be enough.

You are more likely to get engine or gearbox oil on the clutch than hydraulic fluid from any source, which would have to travel upwards and forwards, and get through the cover plate.

I'm surprised your VW clutch is heavier than an MGB, unless it is also a classic.

And if you do have fluid of some kind on the clutch which is causing it to slip as badly as you say, how will you fix that without removing the engine?
PaulH Solihull

The engine iol is not low
Actualy the VW is a VW trike I built (www.3fowlers.com)

It built form a 68 swing axle Beetle
rsf fowler

This thread was discussed between 12/04/2013 and 14/04/2013

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