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MG MGB Technical - Engine mounts and oil leaks......

Well, next up on the list of things to do to the 73B roadster are new engine mounts. I think I can manage to figure this one out by close examination of the engine/trans positions in the car, but any suggestions on what to look out for would be appreciated.

Assuming that I'll be lifting the engine a bit to do this task, I'm also wondering if the oil pan front bolts will be accesible enough to get a wrench in to tighten them up. Or better yet, remove the pan and put in a new gasket, look at the oil pump etc.

Thanks,
BH
BH Davis

BH,

removing the pan is possible this way, refitting becomes very difficult. Some home mechanics have slotted the holes at the front of the pan as you can put in the bolts first and slide the pan into position again. I did not feel comfortable with this tric and pulled the engine, when a new oil pump had to be installed.

Ralph
Ralph

With the engine mounts undone you should be able to raise the engine enough to get at the sump, I'd have thought, although I've only done it on a V8 which is easier.

Make sure the engine/transmission ground strap are bright and tight, assembling with copper grease or waxoyl. This is round the right front engine mount on earlier cars, gearbox cross-member on later.
Paul Hunt 2

BH, I have removed the pan with the engine in place to inspect the bearings and the oil pump. I unbolted the front engine mounts, jacked the engine and used some plywood blocks to keep the engine in place. With good motor mounts you can usually get the bolts out and sometimes get them back in without unbolting the mounts. It's easer to access if you have 1/4" drive flex sockets. The ones that look like a u-joint but have a socket on one end. Sears has them, you need a 1/2" and 7/16".

Clifton
Clifton Gordon

No doubt that as you unmount and lift the engine
a thin shim (or two, or three) will fall out from
between either mount.

Don't lose track of them as they're supposed
to go back exactly where they came from, and
each car is different.
Daniel Wong

I don't know for sure about MG's, but on many engines the manufacturer will advise you NOT to tighten the oil pan bolts down too far. If the gasket is compressed and squishes out, it won't seal up and you'll get more leaks than you started with. When you buy the new gasket be sure to ask the parts dealer if the gasket should be tightened down all the way.
Ken
Kenneth Thompson

Kenneth,

A friend cautioned me on just that point. He said to make sure I look up the torque specs on the pan bolts and strictly adhere to it. He gave exactly the same reasons that you listed.

BH
BH Davis

The one and best trick that I have ever learned about oil pans and gaskets is to get the pan off. (raising the engine makes this not all that difficult.

Clean the block surface perfectly clear. Put a layer of silicon gasket sealant on the block. (I use one of those small black bristled, aluminum handled brushes)

Clean the pan face perfectly clear also. Put a light layer of grease on the pan.

Install the gasket on the block. Gasket sealant should be able to hold the gasket in place, even upside down.

I use a small garage hydraulic jact to lift the pan in place and hold it while I get the bolts in. Torque to specifications.

No leaks and you can remove the pan when needed without wrecking the gasket.
BEC Cunha

BH-
Pay heed to Ken Thompson. Simply tightening bolts in an effort to cure a leak usually results in a nothing more than a crushed gasket and worse leakage. Fortunately, the engineers at Fel-Pro have come up with a solution called the PermaDryPlus® Oil Pan Gasket (Fel-Pro Part # OS20011). Constructed of high temperature resistant, edge-molded silicone rubber on a rigid carrier, it provides superior fit, as well as both high heat and vacuum resistance, while the included Oil Pan SnapUps speed installation. This is what I have on my engine, and I can confirm that there isn't even a stain hint of seepage, much less a leak. Just the thing for the guy who hates oil stains on the driveway or garage floor! Just make sure to clean the mating surfaces as BEC recommends, and the problem will be cured.
Steve S.

MGB is only 6 ft lb (side cover screws are only 2 ft lb!). It's not so much that the gasket squishes out (which I have noticed does happen with silicon sealants, but not Hermetite Red) but overtightening distorts the flanges of the sump, which is little more than tin and paradoxically makes leaks *more* likely, by causing the flange between adjacent holes to bow away from the crankcase. If you look at the sump flange you should see small raised lines running between and around the bolt holes, it's these that make the seal. If you don't, maybe it has been overtightened in the past.
Paul Hunt 2

This thread was discussed between 29/08/2007 and 02/09/2007

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