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MG MGB Technical - Fitting a rear crankshaft Speedi-Sleeve backwards?

I saw the following reply to a query about fitting a speedi-sleeve to a B crankshaft on John Twists University Motors Q&A web page.

"Remove the engine from the car -- you can more easily remove the engine
WITHOUT the gearbox. Remove the clutch, the flywheel, and the rear engine
bearing plate. Purchase the Chicago Rawhide Speedi Sleeve, part number 3500
(for 3.500 inches), and drive it onto the back end of the crank. You DO NOT
have to do any machining. (You have two options when rebuilding: grind
that surface smooth at the crankshaft shop; OR, fit a speedi sleeve -- you
don't have to do both). BUT -- you must fit the sleeve BACKWARDS from the
way the instructions read, or you'll never drive it on far enough. Make
sure you wrap some tape around the rear edge of the speedi sleeve BEFORE you
fit a NEW REAR SEAL, so you don't cut the seal. Remove the tape before the
rear plate is completely fastened. This should do the trick!"

I note his insistence that the sleeve be fitted "backwards". Has anyone else done this? I assume it would make it easier to tear off the driving flange but you would need to cover the rough edge as he suggests. I assume the "rear engine bearing plate" he mentions is actually the "rear engine backing plate"?
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Hi Mike I recently fitted a speedi sleeve to my 67 B engine (80,000 miles). I removed the engine and gearbox together which I find easier; but everyone to their own way. I fitted it with the flange forward towards the front of the engine and even left the flange on; it didn't interfere with anything. There was no problem getting it on far enough to cover the grove in the end of the crankshaft. I used the installation tool to protect the seal from the sharp edge when I slipped the oil seal over the speedi sleeve. So far no more oil leaks.

Andy

Andy Preston

Mike
I have fitted two Speedi-Sleeves on "B's", and did not have any interference problems, putting it on with the flange toward the front of the engine....
Easy to install, just make certain that the area on the crank shaft is clean, and without high spots...Follow the instructions that come with the sleeve.
Look closely at the image, and you can see the flange and front edge of the seal.
I personally think that pulling the engine and tranny as a unit , is less aggravating in the long run...Since putting the assembly back together with the "lump" on a hoist, can be really difficult....The few extra items that you have to detach and re-attach, is no big deal
Edward



E.B. Wesson

Here's a shot of the "tool" in place on the flange.

E.B. Wesson

This image shows the slide-on "tool" , that I made out of a plastic cup, to make putting the rear plate back on the engine, much easier....The rear plate contains the oil seal that rides on the sleeve.
By the way, I mis-typed in the first description, and made reference to the "seal", when I meant to type "sleeve"...Sorry...didn't see it until too late.
Edward

E.B. Wesson

Thanks Edward - lovely clean engine - I'm jealous!
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Mike
There's a story to go with the photos.....
I had rebuilt the engine, and sealed everything (I thought), using a recommended rear seal....(WRONG!).
Got it all back together, and into the car, and the new seal leaked worse than the old seal!
That is when I discovered (on another "B" site), the use of the Speedi-Sleeve, along with a different seal, that I got from Gordon, at the "B-Hive".....
Not wanting to pull the engine and tranny a second time, I thought I would get "cute", and do it by pulling the transmission alone.....
I did some research, and ended up fabricating a removable
rear cross-member. (image attached)....
while the cross-member worked great, it was not any easier to line up the transmission with the motor, than it would have been to line up the motor with the transmission (in the car)....
The next "B" was a GT, and I did it the "old fashioned way", and pulled both....MUCH EASIER!.
Merry Christmas!
Edward

E.B. Wesson

And another image...

E.B. Wesson

Thanks all for the info on the speedi-sleeve This is the first time I have heard of it. I was also interested in the pros and cons of removing the engine or the engine and the gearbox. I have just removed and replaced the motor without the gearbox and had no problem doing it myself. lowered the motor and had the first bolts in within a couple of minutes.

Ronnie
RA Potter

Ronnie,
My car is an MGA with 5 brg 1800 and all syncro overdrive box - it is nigh on impossible to remove engine and gearbox as a unit - easy to do as separate units.
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Merry Christmas everyone!
Ronnie
I have heard many folks say it was "easy" to re-attach engine and tranny, with the tranny fixed, and engine "floating"....I have also read horror stories, about the same technique....
Luck plays a big part in the ease of any removal-installation.....
The nice thing about doing it out of the car on a "B", is much easier to control everything, and less fear of crushed fingers or damaged car-body parts....

Edward
E.B. Wesson

Hi Mike and Edward

The only other motors I have removed in recent years was my MK11 jag and Diesel defender and in both cases I looked at the overall length with GB attached and decided half was easier. Never having tried to remove all at once I can't really comment. Working alone I think I would prefer one at a time. I am also a lot older now so the weight is a consideration. I had enough FUN draging the MG motor around the garage. Mike I have the same combination as you. (1970) I hope you all have a great Christmas and a prosperous New Year.

Ronnie

PS. Being new to MG I must say I really enjoy reading all the posts, it is the easiest way to learn the ins and outs of my MG. Thanks to all.
RA Potter

Hi,

I don't know about fitting the speedi sleeve backwards, I've done several, fitted as per instructions.

The rear main sleeve can be fitted with the back plate in situ, just remove the old seal and there is plenty of room.

To protect the new seal wrap a bit of tape to just cover the edge of the sleeve to cover the sharp edge, remove when seal is in place. Whatever you do don't try and fit the seal without some way of protecting it from this edge, if you don't then you'll be sorry. Been there, done that.

Herb
Herb Adler

This is a photo of the engine coming out - single handed.
Mike

Mike Ellsmore

Engine on the carrier/trolley awaiting fly wheel removal.
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts201f.htm
Mike

Mike Ellsmore

Hi Mike

I only had a block and tackle and 2 canvas slings, I made sure the motor was at the correct angle before I lifted it. I never thought of making a trolley. I will remember the next time Thanks

Ronnie
RA Potter

Mike
Good looking "trolley" for your engine.....Thanks for the photos.
Looks like the "A" has a tighter clearance than the "B",
and you may be right about doing the lump by itself....
The "B" is a different story...Plenty of room, and little interference....One cross member to remove, and a few additional wire connectors, a speedo cable, plus taking the two bolts from the clutch cable. Easy to remove the shifter, from inside the car.
On the "B" front cross member (the standard one), once the part is out, modifying the cross-member with access holes, (for the transmission bolts), makes re-installing the tranny mounts much easier.
The "B" doesn't even require removal of the bonnet, to do the removal/installation....Just remove the brace, and pull the hood all the way up, and tie in place, with a rope to the rear bumper.
When I did the GT, I did remove the hood, to paint it.
Here's an image of the process. I did everything by myself.
Edward


E.B. Wesson

And another....Notice the rear wheels are up on ramps.(and a piece of plywood protects the lower part of the windscreen....just in case).
Edward

E.B. Wesson

You want a real stinker to pull the engine/transmission out of? Try it on a '55 AH 100-4. The hood opening is tiny and the engine angle must be constantly adjusted as you lift the heavy lump out of the car. Removing the engine, without the transmission, isn't an option. RAY
rjm RAY

This thread was discussed between 22/12/2012 and 26/12/2012

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