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MG MGB Technical - Fitting a tow bar

I am thinking about fitting a tow bar to my 1973 MGB GT CB for a general purpose trailer. I notice that the MGOC has them and wonder whether anyone has any experience of fitting one etc?
Cheers
Paul
PJ Eades

If no one has fitted the MGOC tow bar has anyone any experience at all re fitting a tow bar to a chrome bumper MGB? e.g. Any problems re the height of the tow bar in relation to the trailer, practical installation issues etc?
Thanks
Paul
PJ Eades

Paul,

I've not fitted one, but will comment on the height. If I did fit one, I would be inclined to fit the receiver type. That way you are not stuck with a single height. You can always change the bar that the ball bolts to so that you get the correct height to match different trailers.

Charley
C R Huff

With chrome bumper Bs, the bracket normally fits behind the bumper and the towball bolts straight through the middle of the bumper, so it should be fairly easy to work out what height it will be.

I bought a used towbar complete with bumper from ebay, although I haven't fitted it yet. I didn't particularly want to drill holes in my bumper, so it seemed to be the way to go.

Thinking about it, I may have bought more than one...a bit of a habit of mine!
Dave O'Neill 2

Check out mgaguru.com/mgtech/trailer/index.htm. It is for an MGA but is applicable to the B also.

Larry
Lawrence Hallanger

here's my version, bought locally.
I'd be interested to see more on the MGOC version.
I've often though of making up a version that highjacks the iron locations. Remove the bumper and irons. Bolt in the tow bar. It would go though the irons holes. Then attach the bumper to the tow bar. That way you could hide the bar behind the bumper and just have the (removable) tongue sticking out underneath.



Peter Sherman

side

Peter Sherman

This is a picture of a Dutch made towbar, that is for sale (I have no connection). It is fixed on the "chassis": http://link.marktplaats.nl/373255869

I've used the same type on a chrome bumper MGB with good result towing a folding caravan. Heightwise much depends on the object towed, in my experience newer cars have higher towing heights?
Willem vd Veer

Many thanks for all the responses! As a matter of interest, is any one aware of any issues regarding the electrics? i.e. brake lights and indicators on a light trailer. I am thinking particularly of electrical loadings on the existing MGB system and whether I need to make any modifications!
Thanks
Paul
PJ Eades

As far as the electrics are concerned, you just need an 'old-style' towing electrics kit, rather than the latest by-pass relay type as fitted to modern cars with electronic CANBUS wiring.

This sort of kit...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PREWIRED-ELECTRIC-12N-CARAVAN-TRAILER-SOCKET-Towing-/330462185341?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cf114c77d
Dave O'Neill 2

No problems at all. The blinkers speed up a bit when the trailer is plugged in.
These piggy back wire taps are are what are on mine and are quick and easy. Just make sure your earth wire is firmly attached. Don't rely on earthing though the tow bar.

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/joinerswire-taps
Peter Sherman

Those piggyback connectors are the WORST thing ever invented for wires. They damage the wires considerably, frequently cutting half the strands inside. In any exposed location they allow water/salt into the wire with inevitable failure. I've spent way too much time and effort tracing and replacing wires damaged as much as 25feet (big truck)away from the tap point, due to corrosion traveling inside the wire.
Inexcusable to use them anyplace, especially on an MGB, where all you need is a few double sleeve connectors to replace singles in your rear light wires, although in most cases there is already a vacant hole to plug into. Standard bullets on your trailer tap leads and you are good to go with no damage and instantly reversible to original.

FRM
FR Millmore

I didn't look at Peter's link, but based on Fletcher's response, I bet those are the guillotine connectors that cut through the insulation and wires in one stroke, and then have an insulator that wraps around the mess and clicks in place to finish it off.

If that's what it is, those are perfectly fine to put on someone else's car as long as you don't like them and you are sure that you will never see them again. Otherwise, do it right.

That aside, Peter is right about the ground, and a bad ground will blow the converter box that allows the single-bulb / dual-filament trailer lights work as both turn and brake indicators.

Charley
C R Huff

This thread was discussed between 06/09/2010 and 17/09/2010

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