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MG MGB Technical - front Shockers
|I am an interloper to this site since I own a 1954 MG TF. The youngest TFs are now over 60 years old and new front shock absorbers are no longer available. The main problem with used ones is corrosion of the main shaft where it enters the housing, just where the seal is. You can polish the shaft and fit a new seal but it doesn't always work and thus the quality of refurbished units is questionable. MG B units are similar apart from the ends of the shocker arms where they fit onto the kingpin assembly. Conversion kits are available but cost about £700! I have a centre lathe and could turn up the necessary spacers but before I do anything I could do with some dimensions. If anyone has a B shocker under their bench could they please measure the diameter of the holes for the top pivot bolt and the distance between the inner faces of the arms where they fit over the top trunnion.|
I've got an old US one that you can have FOC if it helps
|There is a bloke in Selly Oak Birmingham, who will recondition your lever arm shocks for about £50 each. I believe he re bushes the shafts as well changing the hydraulics. His name is Stevson and he is getting on a bit, so hurry before he packs it in. You can find details by Google, although his site isnt that well maintained. I called in about a month ago and was pleased he was still going.|
|Popped in this morning. He said he was very busy with a few contracts and getting ready for the NEC show next weekend.|
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|Peter Caldwell, at World Wide Auto, rebuilds lever arm dampers to better than new specifications. He machines the housing so that they will accept a seal that Armstrong never provided when the shocks were new. He usually has refurbished units in stock so that the turnaround time is minimal. Also, his prices are very fair. RAY|
I have just overhauled a front Armstrong lever type shock absorber now laying on my bench. The hole diameter measures 0.493"which is a strange size but possibly for an interference fit for the bolt.The distance between the two arms is 2.50".
I have found if the shock absorber is not leaking oil through the ends where the spindles exit the body then there is a strong possibility that by taking the back off the shock absorber, cleaning out the entire body and re filling with a 20w grade of oil then it may be OK for further use which it is in my case.
I know there are companies who machine the body to take a small ball race and new seals on each side and this is fine but if you wish you can do it yourself.
Hope this helps.
Firstly, I have absolutely no idea about TF shockers, however, I've recently recod a shock from a Wolseley and written it up. The link below will take you to that write up, which may give you some ideas on doing it yourself.
|H J Adler|
I have sent to you a personal email.
|Thanks Herb, I've filed that away for future reference.|
|Dave O'Neill 2|
NTG in Ipswich have just started offering exchange shocks for 'T' types.
This thread was discussed between 02/11/2016 and 01/12/2016
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