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MG MGB Technical - Handbrake Compensator - Banjo Axle

I was dismantling the handbrake compensator on my banjo axle this afternoon.

I tried to loosen the outside nut, but the fulcrum rotated and the inner nut came undone. Despite this, the fulcrum would not come out.

I refitted the inner nut and tightened it. I was then able to undone the outer nut and remove the compensator levers and various washers.

I undid the inner nut again, but the fulcrum would not come out. It rotates and can be wiggled, but that's all.

Is there a trick to removing it, or is it just a case of brute force?

Dave O'Neill 2

The compensator is over 45 years old and has probably never been apart. A good dose of penetrating oil and a bit of heat should, along with a bit of force, get it to come apart eventually. RAY
rjm RAY

If the fulcrum turns in the lever, as seems likely from your description, it won't be seized but it could well have a wear groove that the lever is caught on somehow.
Paul Hunt

The bracket on the axle is threaded too, I think. What often happens though, is the first few threads on the fulcrum get worn down from repeated action if the rear nut isn't done tightly. This results in slight bending, ovaling, grooves etc on the fulcrum. All can cause it to be moveable but not removeable. Try unscrewing it, but then brute force may have to come into play. They do sell the fulcrums new but i'm not sure they actually fit. I seem to recall they didn't.

I read your problem as the lever sections are removed without the fulcrum stuck in them, and it simply remains on the axle bracket alone. If i'm wrong, then it's probably as Paul says (very similar problem further up the shaft!)

Do you actually need to remove it? It doesn't sound damaged or unservicable.

It is indeed still attached to the axle.

My only reason for removing it is to de-rust and paint the axle.

I did try unscrewing it with a couple of nuts locked onto the other end, but no joy.

I'll try and 'pull' it out tomorrow.

Dave O'Neill 2

Clearer now. Try forcing a wedge between the axle and the inner end of the fulcrum while you unscrew it.
Paul Hunt

I've had another attempt at removing it, but it's still not co-operating, so it looks like I'll have to clean and paint around it!

As I had given up on removing the fulcrum, I decided to replace the differential pinion seal, as it has obviously been leaking and the drive flange needs painting, also.

I put a socket on it, along with my 2ft+ bar, expecting it to put up a fight. It came undone remarkably easily. I had marked the relative positions of the pinion and the nut before I'd started, so I decided to tighten it again and try to undo it with my torque wrench.

I tried it at 50lb/ft and it came undone without clicking, so I reduced it to 40, then 30 with the same result.

I haven't used my torque wrench in 'undo' mode before, so I don't know how accurate it is.

I do have another torque wrench with a pointer, so I decided to try that. It is graduated in NM and came undone at 85, which equates to just under 63lb/ft, apparently. Hmmmm!
Dave O'Neill 2

Some click torque wrenches (like mine) don't have the torque function when the ratchet is reversed. Although the banjo nut is supposed to be done to 135 to 140 ft lb don't be tempted to turn it any further than the original position, just daub it well with Loctite.

Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 06/04/2015 and 21/04/2015

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