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MG MGB Technical - Oil leak

Found another oil leak coming from a bolt head just below where the oil pressure gauge pipe comes out of the block, donít know what it is and reluctant to remove as it might loose a lot of oil, it might just be loose but is very awkward to get access to so thought I would ask more knowledgeable people first.
Trevor Harvey

This one? I'd guess i's closing off an oil-way drilling, but it is only a guess. You might get a little oil from it but I wouldn't expect oil to flood out unless the engine is running at the time :o)


As Paul said, oil gallery plug.
It should have a copper "crush" washer under the head.
It could just be loose, but a new washer won't do any harm.
You won't lose much oil if you take it out to check...........just don't forget to put it back!!!!!
Allan Reeling

Bit of confusion there gents--It's water
The larger fitting on the left is the oil supply from the pump-
The smaller fitting on the right is the oil gauge pipe fitting into the main pressure gallery-
The blank bung just below the oil pressure gauge fitting is into the coolant chest-- some early cars actually had a drain cock in that hole--
William Revit

The one I am concerned about has definitely got oil coming from it unless itís coming from the oil gauge pipe fitting just above it but I donít think so, itís difficult to see properly as the dizzy is obscuring it.
Trevor Harvey

If it's this one in the pics. ,it's water as you can see

William Revit

going on what Willy has put this could be the very important and very often forgotten engine block coolant drain plug. Check your copy of the Driver's Handbook to see how should (but usually isn't)used for coolant draining.

A lot of silt/crud/muck can build up at that point and really wants scraping out at coolant change draining and flushes (even if some say it's a waste of time doing so it isn't a waste but a good idea).

The nut should have a washer with it so if you tighten it up (11/16" spanner IIRC) the coolant leak should stop.

If it's an oil leak you mean then obviously it's not the engine block coolant drain plug but might be oil leaking and running to this point to drip off from it, such is the way with leaks, they don't always start from where they end.

Golden rule - always consult the 'good book' (DH) first. :)

See below from the book you get after you've got a copy of the Driver's Handbook, the factory Workshop Manual.

The engine block coolant drain plug will be in place of the (arrowed) drain tapp Willy mentioned.


Nigel Atkins

ETA: both Trevor and Willy posted whilst I was typing my post and getting the diagram but I my post still seems appropriate (I think).

I thought you were in Tasmania not Lilliput, are you still on a box-browny. :)

Nigel Atkins

if you carefully get a bit of white tissue paper and dab at the liquid you should be able to tell from its transfer on the tissue paper if it's just oil, coolant or a mixture of both.

Or clean the area up best as you can and make it dry, then puff a bit of talcum powder there and this will highlight the source or possibly path of the leak.
Nigel Atkins

"... and very often forgotten ..."

Usually because nothing comes out of it :o)

All the more reason to get something coming out of it and the more reason for thorough coolant changes with adequate cleaning and plenty of flushing and back-flushing, and poking around to clear that drain hole as much as possible.

Once some debris/crud/muck/globules has been got out of (not pushed in) that drain hole then more old coolant, cleaner and flushings can wash even more debris/crud/muck/globules out.

Even if you can't get the passage or drain hole fully clear the more clear the better - and next coolant change you can have another go.

Only yesterday someone put up a photo of the (dry) debris he got out of his A-series engine (yes I know it's not a B engine) I'll post it here as encouragement (for an oil leak, whatever next).

Paul, I'm not sure why you're so defeatist on this when you're not normally on anything else - obviously you're wrong about the use of some oils and electronics but that's just beliefs.:)
Nigel Atkins

It's definitely an oil leak, if the one in the photo is a water blanking plug then it is probably one of the two to the left of it (oil cooler or oil pressure gauge pipe) The distributor makes it difficult to see what's going on. I'll get it up to hopefully get a better view from underneath this coming week. Thanks all for the advice.
Trevor Harvey

Fair enough.

You might be able to carefully nip either up to stop the leak.

Depending on the type of pipe it might be at the pipe/hose itself or its connection. Feel for a run of oil on the pipes, possibly one could drip on to the other depending on hose runs and how the car is parked.

And if you can't really see could it be coming from above these items.
Nigel Atkins

it isn't a blanking plug (as such) it's a drain plug instead of tap, which probably blocked easier and/or(?) got stiff as it wasn't used so much when coolant got used all year round so was changed to the plug(?) (and/or of course cost saving).

Dry debris from the coolant passages of Lawrence's A-series engine block - better out than in.

"A LOT of sludge/sediment can remain trapped in the block."

Nigel Atkins

If you poke your phone (or box brownie-Nigel) down in there and get a pic. you might be able to see where it's coming from, the usual culprits are either the rear oil cooler hose fitting is loose in the block where someone has tightened/loosened the hose without holding the fitting-or- the oil pressure gauge hose has started to leak- or- the distributor is leaking where it fits in and the oil is blowing back onto the drain bung, you'd be surprised how many distributors don't have an 'o' ring in the groove
If it's really oily down there making it hard to find the source of the leak, give it a degrease and hose off for a fresh start makes it easier
If you havn't got any degreaser just give it a squirt with bathroom cleaner and hose it off, works well and smells nice too

Nigel, When i'm doing a drain i remove the rad cap and that bung while it's full;poke a piece of wire in there to get it moving if needed then hit it in the hole with the air hose while it's still full of coolant
Works a treat and really gurgles it around in there where it's needed and then let the mud flow out--And there's 'always' plenty of gunk from that hole even on cars that appear to be fairly clean otherwise

By the way Nigel as far as the camera goes, I had to sort of borrow the pics off the net as i didn't have any of that area--I've got a job coming in today so i'll get a real pic for you just to keep you guessing

William Revit

Here you go Nigel-
I poked a piece of string through the coolant drain hole and out through the rearmost welch plug hole just to show that it's a coolant drain bung
I had to work harder than I should today just to get this thing out and apart for the pic. I hope you're pleased---No distributor oil leaks on this one buddy---Your task for the day is to tell me what this engine is out of----'

William Revit

As far as distributor O-rings go it seems that not all had it, or the groove to accommodate it. 25D4 distributors for 18GD to 18GK and 18V 581 to 585 (i.e. Mk2 with HS carbs) don't have it, whereas those either side do, and all 45D4.


When I rebuilt my engine a few years ago I tried unblocking the internal passage for the drain plug and failed, not through lack of effort or determination but it felt as if the passage hadnít been cast correctly. I had all the core plugs out and there was a surprising amount of crud at the back of cylinder 4, I had the feeling a reasonable amount of it was casting sand.
R.A Davis


You're not supposed to mention his name!
Dave O'Neill 2

I've read that people have had to resort to chiselling at it with a long pick through the water passages with the head off, much like Nigel's picture, no way is flushing going to remove stuff like that. The only saving grace is the bottom of the water jacket doesn't need anywhere near as much cooling as the top, and going by the number of reports of this problem it doesn't do any harm.

a TVR Grantura, an old MG, an old BMC/BL, look good so a boat.

Air hose, where do you think the average DIYer gets access to an ait hose, the nearest I get is a piece of tube in my mouth and blow. As you can imagine it's quite effective from me doing it but then I hyperventilate.

I did once borrow an air compressor from a mate, it was three months old and only been used once, it wouldn't turn on for me and it ended up being replaced under guarantee. I got the replacement, started the job and found I didn't need the compressor!

Willy from the way that photo is cropped how do I know it's the same piece of string. :)

Nigel Atkins

I thought Willy meant an oil ring on the bottom of dissy but I could be wrong with both.

the person credited with the photo will be totally unknown to all but the M&S crowd (or is it S&M crowd).

I find it hard to believe that such an esteemed, fine and careful manufacturer as MG would have engines not properly finished.

Oh, no, wait, having owned four of them I think MG is much more esteemed than fine or careful.
Nigel Atkins

Paul's correct in that they don't all have the "O" ring groove, I was meaning I've seen plenty with the groove but no 'O' ring present
I'm not letting up on you Nigel until you identify this engine-it's MG---but which one
You're trying to trick me with the string, I'll cut both the ends off and send them to you to prove it's one piece-I guess i'll have to pull it out first otherwise there won't be an end to pull it out by if i cut were to them off first-----lol
Now, what's the engine out of and no it's not a diesel--hurry up it's 11-30pm here and i need to sleep
William Revit

I had to look at my car when someone showed me a photo of the rear of an MG to see if it was a B or Spridget as I wasn't sure!

I was just assuming it was a B-series but now the missing hole has me, that didn't register with me before, is it the starter engine for something bigger?

ETA: Write today's date on the string and then take a photo of the string inside the engine.

Nigel Atkins

Ha ha ., this is going to be fun, not for me though, i'm off to the cot, it's tomorrow already
It's a B series engine and out of an MG---but which one-Another clue is the welch plug hole,bit hard to see in the pic but it's straight to take cup style plugs
Probably should start a seperate guessing thread maybe -i hope Trevor doesn't mind
William Revit

Have found the culprit, the braided oil pressure gauge hose is leaking, it has probably deteriorated under the braiding so was difficult to see. I followed the advice given and cleaned all around the area, positioned a small mirror under the hose, started the engine and could see oil coming through the hose, itís probably the original fitted to the vehicle. I have a new one on order so hopefully the problem will be solved. Thanks for the advice.
Trevor Harvey

well done on finding the leak.

I'd advise caution on ordering a replacement especially if getting a new rubber hose that's braided over as you might get the same fault in a too shorter time if the rubber is still of pisspoor quality as it has been and as you've already found the rubber can deteriorate unseen under the braiding.

The one below from B&G claims to be high quality or if you have a farmers, sports/race car or hydraulic place near you they could make a hose up out of better quality rubber or other materials (aerospace style, outlast the car).
Nigel Atkins

Bit late now, but Stevson Motors do a Teflon-cored braided.

As for t'engine, apparently without a distributor, which is intruiging ...


MGA Twin cam ?

richard b

I was getting there ...

but too slowly, well done Richard (unless Willy is going be string slippery again). :)

I don't have MGA 'good book(s)' in my files.

And easier to see Trevor's oil leak like this.

Nigel Atkins

Good stuff Trevor, hope you don't mind the thread drift
10 points to Richard, it's a twinky with the distributor on the front cover

William Revit

Not at all William, I have not heard of Twinky previously, is that a well known name for them or a recent one.
Trevor Harvey

Umm, might get myself into trouble explaining that Trevor---but, -at the risk of offending someone I apologise in advance.
Back in my yoof a heap of local guys including me had Twincam Escorts and twinky became the local slang name for them and it's become common (amongst us anyway) to call anything with a twincam head a twinky---It's become a bit of a tounge in cheek thing as well as in the dictionary a Twinky is also a well groomed young man with strong homosexual tendancies
So if you're going on a club run somewhere with the cars, you never miss the opportunity to ask a twincam owner -"Are you bringing your twinky today" --lol

William Revit

As far as I've understood it over here Twinky is simply onomatopoeic (I had to check that was the correct word and spelling).

I've never heard of Willy's definition which I'd imagine could easily be used for many top professional sportsmen including the various football and roundy-roundy chaps, one at least seems barely behind the closet door to me (no doubt a very modern stylish and expensive closet door) having missed the sexual opportunities offered at places like public schools, religious institutions and armed and other public services.

Most people seem well-groomed to me now, excessively so, but then back in the day, and now, you'd have some over-macho neanderthal with permed hair, earring(s), wearing perfumes which he calls aftershave and deodorant, jewellery in a necklace and fancy wristwatch or even bracelet, wearing fancy impractical or overly tight clothing. Sometimes literally shouting out or snarling at someone they thought effeminate without realising the total irony.

I'm just not into camp, for those that are that's fine, but even the over-macho neanderthals as above are too camp for me, just be nice, for me at least, if they realised it.

Funny ole world ain't it, takes all sorts. :)

Nigel Atkins

I've only known the term 'Twinks'and that is fairly often used as a nick name for Lotus Ford Units such as used in your Elan or Escorts, Cortina's etc.
richard b

Yes thinking back it was Twink and not Twinky but that must have been a term from the 60s and 70s as I can only think of (well remember) hearing of "twin-cams" really.

If I remember I'll ask a mate that was around in those times and has often said the only car he ever regretted selling was a Ford Lotus Cortina (or Cortina Lotus, I forget which and what he calls it).
Nigel Atkins

I thought Twinkie was a chocolate cupcake with a cream filling. Jud
J K Chapin

You had me going there Trevor, thinking how did he know i had an elan then saw that it sneaked into the side of the pics, i'll have to be more carefull taking pics and yes the Twinks thing is mostly Lotus based I guess but--I don't care--if it's got 2 cams it's in--

from the book of words--

Twink (gay slang), a term for a young or young-looking gay or bisexual man. Twink (home perm), a British brand of hair product once produced by Elida. Twink (internet slang), a role-playing game player who engages in twinking. Twink (musician) or John Charles Alder (born 1944), British singer and drummer.

Twinkie is a slang term for someone who looks interesting or attractive physically, but inside has little value. An example of a twinkie is someone who seems very beautiful and kind, but is actually mean and uninteresting.
(bit like an MGA twincam engine)
--- a small finger-shaped sponge cake with a synthetic cream filling.
a gay or effeminate man, or a young man regarded as an object of homosexual desire.

William Revit

A question on your twin-cam block and the bit of string, Willy. Someone who normally knows these things has said that the oil gauge port is not directly connected to the oil filter/cooler outlet port right next to it despite it being so close, but is in the gallery that runs across the block after the filter and feeds the main bearings.

It would be an ideal opportunity to confirm that as well.

Hi Paul
My best way of answering that is-
Your 'someone', is semi 100% correct
The Twin cam block is the same in this area as all other B series blocks --I'll try and explain as best as I can, probably going into too much detail but easier to explain---maybe

On the left(camshaft) side of the engine the oil pump feeds into a gallery that feeds the oil pressure relief valve at the rear and the gallery accross the back of the block that exits out at the oilfilter/cooler port-
On the right side there is a full length gallery that crosses the top of and is open to the oil filter bump on the block and is fed oil pressure after it's been through the cooler(if fitted) and filter
At the point at the rear of the block where they meet ,these two galleries actually line up and cross each other leaving the galleries as a cross (X)and fully connected to each other

In service they run seperately

On a car 'without' an oil cooler there is a short spigot fitting for the filter oil pipe screwed into the block and the oil pipe actually pokes through the fitting, probably a couple of inches or more, down past the horizontal gallery and snugly into the oil supply gallery from the pump which in effect seperates the two galleries --The last little inch or so of the horizontal gallery does nothing
Oil comes accross the back of the block up into the pipe, through the filter and into the pressure gallery, at the rear of which is the pressure gauge line fitting port---which has been seperated from the other port by the extended pipe crossing the crossover points of the galleries

On a car 'with' an oil cooler the spigot fitting has a tubular extension built into it a couple of inches long to reach into the riser gallery down past the horizontal gallery to do exactly the same port seperation job, and then the cooler hose screws onto it

There is a trap, and I've seen it a few times--
If a car that didn't have a cooler has had one fitted and the hose has been screwed onto the short original (non cooler) spigot at the back of the block, this leaves no seperation of the two galleries letting non filtered oil go straight into the main gallery--Because this is a shortcut for the oil, very little bothers going the long route through the cooler and filter rendering the new cooler non functional really and the engine being fed whatever little foreigners that come from the oil pump going round and round unfiltered
--The bearings suffer, but not for long

Hope this long winded answer answers your question
William Revit

Thanks Willy, I certainly see what you are saying, but the Parts Catalogue is confusing to say the least.

With the pipes that go direct from block to filter it shows adapter 1H922 (1st pic), but says that adapter is for use with oil coolers, there is no other adapter listed. The two 'direct' pipes are 1H1056 and 12H4259 ("not used when oil cooler is fitted") and suppliers show adapter 1H922 with those pipes.

But catalogue oil cooler hoses are shown with adapter AHH6071 (2nd pic) which stops short of blocking off the full-length gallery, and neither does the cooler hose have an extension to pass through the adapter, which seemingly would allow oil to bypass the filter as you say.

Photos of the 'direct' pipes show no extension going through the adapter hence adapter 1H922, but then neither do any of the cooler hoses, and only a couple of suppliers show 1H922 with the hoses. Care needed!


are you sure you or the suppliers aren't mixing up adapter for spin-on oil filter (as opposed to to very messy canister filter).
Nigel Atkins

AHH6071 will be used at the filter adapter when an oil cooler is fitted, regardless of what adapter is used, but it still leaves confusion as to what is at the block when one isn't.

I've just looked at MGOC Spares, for the very messy, older, more original, oil filter they have "18 - Union -Adaptor - Filter Housing AHH6701".

For "Upright disposable type" housing it again lists AHH6701 but is drawn as 1H922.

For "Hanging disposable type" housing it again lists AHH6701 and shows the drawing for that.

I've found this before with databases errors and mix ups seemed to be copied or added to as part numbers and/or parts change through the range or years. By the end it's very difficult to unravel back to what might have been the correct part number(s) or lineage originally but doesn't matter now as it's so mixed up.

The B engine went into a lot of different marques and vehicles so there'd be other part numbers and descriptions for the same part but it might not help matters here.

Try sorting compatibility lists for some rotor arms, spark plugs, oil filters, ect. errors are copied and piled on one list on another.
Nigel Atkins

For 1H922 there seems to be different finished items at least, from different suppliers, at different prices.

As examples -
photo one - B&G, old look about it, £13.19 (inc VAT)

photo two - NTG Motor Services Ltd with prop'r uld sckool look for prop'r original motars (don't you know, what, old boy) £32.14 (inc VAT).

Nigel Atkins

Filter housings use the plain adapter AHH6701 for the cooler return hose, it's the block that uses adapter 1H922 on the oil outlet and where the confusion lies.

The confusion is that the catalogue only quotes that adapter for use with an oil cooler, not with a direct pipe, but doesn't list an adapter for use with the direct pipe even though the pipes seem to have a female union and not a male. Willy says that the direct pipes have an extension past the union that does the same job, but the drawings and even photos (the first image from NTG) of those direct pipes don't show that extension. If a direct pipe has that extension (pictures?) e.g. something like an olive on a water pipe with some pipe protruding past it, then you can use the plain adapter. But you still need something for the olive to butt up against and form a seal which would have to be the plain adapter.

Otherwise you need the extended adapter as with the cooler hose, which image 2 seems to be showing attached to the end of a direct pipe i.e. the pipe in image 1.


Another thought occurs to me and that is with the direct pipe having an extension into the gallery across the back of the block to pick up the output from the pump, any gap there will allow some oil to bypass the filter. But adapter 1H922 that screws both into the oil pump gallery and the outer part of the block is described as 'Adapter-fullflow filter connection'. In other words maybe the pipe that Willy describes does allow some bypass and this adapter ensures all the oil flows through the filter and is used with later 'direct' pipes without the extension Willy describes.

I see you can see where one can be confused by all this
And to make it worse , some of the adapter fittings that screw into the rear of the block for the steel (non cooler) pipe have a male thread and some female,some have the extension built into them and some don't. I've seen a braided hose fitted there with a banjo fitting with the banjo bolt direct into the block leaving the galleries open to eacother
To add to confusion ,one well known parts supplier by the name of Sterling(or similar)lists fittings for an oil cooler for the MGB and lists "AHH6701 oil cooler to filter housing adapter" and then goes on to say 2 required
So then the purchaser fits one to the oil filter housing and if he has an adapter at the rear with female thread he screws the other in there, all good but if he has a male thread back there and screws the original fitting out to fit his new oil cooler fitting that (M) told him he needs then there is the problem----
I had a friend who actually cross drilled the dicky bit on a rear fitting on his racer to get more oil into the main gallery not realizing the consequences--it ran a bigend bearing, maybe not because of doing that but all the debris got pumped direct back into the main gallery instead of getting caught by the filter--it was a real mess, there was metal bits everywhere

I'll have a hunt(no pun intended)through my junk and see if I can find enough examples for a pic or two
William Revit

here we have the two adapters , normal long MGA/MGB on the right and short MGB (and possibly others) on the left
To use the short adapter the pipe needs to poke through to seperate the two galleries, if the AHH6701 cooler hose nipple is screwed into this short adapter or straight into the block replacing either adapter then this is where the problems start

William Revit

Looked for an MGB pipe(no cooler) and couldn't find one so had to borrow a pic from the net. Then remembered I had the short fitting in my own engine
First pic is of an MGB pipe from a non coolered engine, This style, which most are like has a fitting sweated to the end of the tube and screws onto the long style adapter with the spout on it

Second pic is the short style adapter which has the pipe poking through it a couple of inches, has an olive on the tube and the male nut screws into the female fitting and seals against the olive
The pipe is a fairly neat sliding fit in the cross gallery, there would probably be a small amount of oil leakage into the other main gallery but not much as they should have roughly the same pressure in them
Sorry I didn't want to dismantle mine for a pic as it's all painted up and ready to go

William Revit

Your 4th image is the only one I have seen with a male fitting on the end of the pipe, also that's the only male/female adapter I have seen. All the others have female fittings as do the only cooler hoses I have seen, which need a male/male adapter in both the block and the filter adapter, which the MGB Parts Catalogue and suppliers show as AHH6701 attached. Leacy is the supplier I have seen that indicates two of these are required, which would be incorrect for the block.

Moss Europe lists two adapters for the MGA, the second one is 1H922 from car number GB11298 on, the earlier one is not pictured and doesn't even have a part number, so that may be the male/female one you show on the left in the earlier post. only lists 1H922 but from car number GB26933 on. Both the Moss sites only have drawings of the pipes, both with female fittings.

MGA 'Guru' mentions the need for and shows 1H922 but doesn't mention (as far as I've seen) an earlier arrangement although he does show image 2 which appears to have a metal pipe with a male fitting on the end, but says that is a home-made arrangement for a spin-on filter adapter.


The engine I have with the pipe in pic.4 came from a rusted out UK 76 rubber nose parts car and is as it came. It's not alone, I've seen others here the same
I just checked my mate's race car and it's got the same short female fitting/male pipe nut setup, It's a US import rubber nose
I noticed in that last pic of the MG guru engine that it has a drain cock in that lower coolant drain hole that started this thread
William Revit

That can't have been original, according to Clausager oil coolers were standard on 'home' market cars from the start of the 5-main bearing engine in 1964 and were always standard on export models. What's the engine number, and what's the part number of that male/female adapter, both out of interest?

Didn't I read recently that Australia done a lot of their stuff on the cars, made rather than assembled there or am I dreaming again.

I know drawings can be simplified and have error(s) that can continue into later adaptations of the drawing but MGB drawing 8843AW and MGA 88(?)43E earlier in the thread both show fittings with full nut then thin nut (for sake of a description). These could be the NTG Motor Services Ltd version (or similar) of 1H922.

All this farting about with different plumbing fixing and standards at the time and now would be termed as "legacy", such as lots of little bits of adaptations bolted on one on another rather than a clean one-piece replacement, bit like a lot of technology, especially supposedly modern computer programs with different generations of "legacy" bits in them.

Nigel Atkins

And why the additional standoff spacing of the other version, unless to allow for later direct pipes that varied or other changes, if so why the same part number(?).

Nigel Atkins

The pipe on that MGA is definitely homemade, not only the brass elbow to the filter housing note also the join and/or long pipe elbow.

Nigel Atkins

It's no big deal really, I only mentioned it originally to warn people of a possible mistake in mixing up the fittings-If you understand the possible issue my job is done
To answer your question Paul, my engine number is
18V847FH6843 it came with all the mechanicals from a dismantled car which I believe was a white GT, it was about 20 years ago and looked old and original/untouched at the time- definately no oil cooler
There isn't a part number stamped into the short fitting- but that spare fitting that was in the pic. I put up came from another parts motor I have which is also an 18v with the heavy counterbalanced crank but unfortunately missing it's engine number plate so can't offer that one
My friend's racer which he has owned for many years was originally a US lhd car and was a complete original worn out Californian car complete with cat. convertor when he got it ---with no rust and no cooler

Something I have noticed from pictures posted here of different fittings is that the oil pipes on the engines here are different to those being put up---These pipes go upwards from the rear fitting to roughly headgasket level, accross the top of the distributor etc and then down to the oil filter housing, not down and under
It's just a bit weird that one of these came from the UK and the other from USA and have exactly the same pipe and fittings
William Revit

forgot the pic of the pipe

William Revit

The NTG one Nigel shows screws into the outer part of the block and only has a 'pipe' extending into the oil gallery across the back of the engine. That won't completely seal that off from the gallery that runs from front to back so some oil is bound to bypass the filter. As such it wouldn't be the 1H922 that everyone else shows, and NTG don't list it as such as far as I can see.

The other one is 1H922 that screws into the back gallery and not the outer part of the block so completely isolates the two and is the 'fullflow' adapter in the catalogues.

As such either would 'do' if one was fitting a oil cooler although 1H922 is preferable. The problem Willy mentions is if it's the direct pipe that has the extension into the back gallery and uses the basic AHH6701 male/male adapter that is used at the filter housing. Removing that pipe and fitting an oil cooler hose to the same male/male adapter would allow most of the oil to bypass the filter.

my moaning about legacy and plumbing fittings wasn't aimed at you rather the car manufacturers.

As I put I thought I'd read recently that Australian made cars had a (fair?) bit of Australian input so perhaps variation to UK and other models.

This is all beyond me and highlights perhaps how it'd be for the average owner.
Nigel Atkins

Paul, Willy,
I'm certainly a bit lost and confused as to what goes where or could go there whether supposed to or not.

I apologise as I put up the NTG wrong part, to save confusion I'll put up two posts to separate my error.
Nigel Atkins

Web page title 1H291 Adapter - Oil Pipe

Adapter-Oil Pipe
BMC B034F {Note: BMC Farina 1.5 litre Parts}

Required Qty 1

£22.15 [excl VAT]

All Models {Note: BMC Farina 1.5 litre Parts}
Used with heads B033A and B033B (see change points below) when B034AD pipe fitted.

. 16AA/47455 on less 47501 to 47545)
. 16CA/267 on
. 16GF/4125 on

(it *looks to me* to have a longer tail).

Again sorry for me adding in my confusion.

Nigel Atkins

Web page title 1H292 Adapter - Oil Pipe

Adaptor-Oil Pipe
BMC B034 {Note: BMC Farina 1.5 litre Parts}

Required Qty 1

£26.78 [excl VAT]

. All Models {Note: BMC Farina 1.5 litre Parts}

Used with Purolator Head (B033A) Tecalamit head (B033B) fitted to all 1500cc cars but was changed on 1622cc vehicles (see change points below).

. 16AMW/192608 (less 192318 to 192400)
. 16GE/5970
. 16RA/5472

Nigel Atkins

If only I could have used cut&paste instead of my wonky eyes and brain.

I've just noticed another balls-up by me, I misread the parts number it should be - 1H1291 - sorry again for another error.

You've probably noticed, more than once, that I have difficulty reading off screens, I'm not so bad with printed page, don't know why.

Anyway -

Web page tab title - 1H1291 Adapter - Oil Pipe

Adapter-Oil Pipe [ 1H1291 ]

BMC B034F {Note: BMC Farina 1.5 litre Parts}

Required Qty 1

£22.15 (excl VAT)

. All Models {Note: BMC Farina 1.5 litre Parts}

Used with heads B033A and B033B (see change points below) when B034AD pipe fitted.

. 16AA/47455 on less 47501 to 47545)
. 16CA/267 on
. 16GF/4125 on

Nigel Atkins

The difference between the image you posted and the link looks marginal to me at best. Googling 1H1291 doesn't come up with anything other than basically the same NTG page as 1H922 for me, other than one has a 'mgbits' URL and the other has 'bmcfarina', with one listed as 'B034' and the other 'B034F'.

Did you put the '1H1291' on the image? Other than that and one having 'NTG ...' across the image the two pictures from the web pages are identical right down to being the same photgraphic image.


Sorry Paul, confusion tends to breed confusion.

Apart from the NTG 'copyright' added in on one photo both are from NGT, I must have just lifted them from different sources on the NTG site.

I first incorrectly added '1H291' to the image and text in post then corrected to add '1H1291' on image and in text to post.

1H1291 NTG have as B034F.

(1H299 NTG have as B034.)

If you follow the NTG internal links it leads to other possible references or cross-references assuming they're correct of course.

I meant to me the tail on 1H1291 looked longer than the tail on 1H299 but I'm even less sure about that now, difficult to know for sure without being able to measure properly.

I find Google for the last x-number of years to be all about selling items rather than previously information and selling items.

I also noticed another of my typos but thought I'd done enough without throwing that spanner in too.

Willy's brought up an important point where ideally I'd want all the different fixings, pipes, hoses and an engine available to check what's right to what.
Nigel Atkins

And just to add to the mix Nigel, these pipes on both these engines here don't have any of these fittings on the filter head, they've got a banjo fitting and the banjo bolt screws directly into the filter housing
William Revit

1H299 :o)

What NTG have as 1H922 on the tab is clearly not the same as anyone else's 1H922. That may well be the earlier MGA part pictured, as implied in a couple of other resources, but it's not that part number.

By comparison the filter head end is 'straightforward'. It's either a banjo bolt for the direct pipes or a male/male adapter for the cooler hose.

Google is a massively useful resource, but it's just an index to pages other people put up. If you put in a search term and don't like what it brings back you can't blame Google.

I'm not blaming Google for what turns up on website pages, I'm blaming Google for what it doesn't turn up or many pages back or very indirectly.

You have solved why I got two different images for the same part. -

1H1291 - NGT Motor Services - BMC B034F - (Farina 1.5?) - £26.58 (incl VAT)

1H922 - NGT Motor Services - B034 - MGA, Z Series, Wolseley 15/50 - £32.14 (incl VAT)

Should be(?) -

(I also had a typo of 1H292 earlier, I sometimes transpose numbers but never notice at the time even if I check.)
Nigel Atkins

At least that 3rd link picture agrees with the other suppliers. Easier for us to spot discrepancies than for them to get all their parts pages exactly right.

Oh yes a very big task getting databases and websites anywhere near right. Unless I know the person I've given up pointing out the mistakes as even when they're agreed and confirmed they remain, I suppose it's a matter of priorities.

Anyway I can't really cast the first stone or even consider bending down to pick it up with my record, on this thread alone let alone all others.
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 28/11/2020 and 08/12/2020

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