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MG MGB Technical - Oil Pressure Profile

A bit similar to another current thread but different enough to justify a second one.

I have a newly reputably rebuilt (1000 miles) MGB 3 bearing engine (in an MGA hence a stranger to this list) which is running fine BUT the oil pressure profile isn't what I would have expected. It takes a couple of second at start to go to 60psi then starts dropping after about 6 minutes to its running profile, so far so good. When running it settles on tick over at about 20psi which rises up to around 50psi by about 2800rpm. Then when driving above these revs it settles between 48psi and 52psi depending on temperature but drops further when revs go below around 2800 rpm.

I think the running reading for a 'new' engine is low at around 50 but this could be the gauge which I bought on ebay a couple of years ago. What I am most surprised about is that it takes up to around 2800rpm to settle, presumably when the spring comes in. At lower revs below 2800 it roughly runs at about 20psi per 1000rpm.

The engine sounds lovely (although it isn't quite as smooth when cold at low revs when cold as my 1500 A engine was)

All comments welcome??? Is there anyway I can cross check the pressure/gauge short of getting another one? Should I be worried?

Paul
Paul Dean

You can borrow a portable oil pressure gauge and install it at the oil pressure take off at the rear of the engine. This way you can ascertain whether your problem lies in the gauge itself or inside the engine. RAY
rjm RAY

20 psi at idle, even hot, is on the low side especially for a 3-bearing I'd have said. The book does quote 10 to 25 hot idle, but mine (5-bearing) only drops to 25 when stuck in traffic for a long time on a hot day. Other than that it is around 40-50. Do you have an oil cooler? If not that could explain the difference as mine does have one, which explains my drop when idling.

Again I'd have said 50 hot running is on the low side, the book quotes 50 to 80 at 3k, and mine is around 60-70. What grade oil are you using? The lower viscosities can give lower pressures.

Not sure what you mine by 'when the spring comes in'. The relief valve should open at 70psi, so shouldn't be opening at all given your pressures.
Paul Hunt

Taking Ray's comment above on board I have checked the readings with a different gauge and they are the same, I am afraid. Paul, by 'when spring comes in' I was meaning the relief valve but as you say this sounds too low.

All thoughts very welcome. The engine including pump has been rebuilt but my suspicion is the pump. Any ideas. I would appreciate prompt replies if possible as I am seeing engine shop this coming week.

Paul

Pau
Paul Dean

Without too much difficulty you could check the pick-up strainer and oil pump gaskets are sound, correctly orientated (the oil pump can be fitted incorrectly which affects flow and hence pressure) and the bolts are tight.
Paul Hunt

Paul D,

You haven't answered Paul H's question about the oil. That would be good to know. Did you own it when it was rebuilt by what you describe as a reputable builder? If you know who built it, maybe they will have some answers.

There has been at least one case of a defective new oil pump mentioned some time back. It had casting flash largely blocking some of the passages.

There is a problem with the oil pump sucking air if a 3-main oil pump gasket is used on a 5-main engine. I don't know what would happen if the mistake was made in reverse, but it is something to consider.

I bought a 5-main GT once that had what I believe to have been a 3-main pump in it. Whatever wrong pump it was, it caused the pump drive to lift out of the pump resulting in zero oil pressure, so that is worth looking into as well.

The oil pan (sump) can be removed with the engine in place. It helps to unbolt at least one engine mount and raise the engine a bit. I know this is true with a B, but I'm not sure if it can be done with an A. So, you could pull the sump and pull pump to check it as well as the gasket.

If the pump or gasket don't seem to be a problem, while the pan is off you could pull some main and rod caps and check the bearing clearance with some plastigauge.

Then there is the possibility that the relief valve does not have enough spring tension or that it is not seating properly.

Though unlikely to be a problem, have you had more than one oil filter on it to verify that the filter is not causing a restriction?

Charley
C R Huff

I don't have an oil cooler. The oil is a 'Classic' 20/50 of a type I have used for year in my 1500 engine. I bought the engine as an non runner from an MG breaker and I had it rebuilt, and yes I will be talking to the re-builder next week hence I am after as many ideas as possible before that conversation. Yes I first saw the problem when I was using running in oil, and I changed the filter when that oil came out. The oil pump is the one that was fitted to the engine when I got it but some parts of it were changed during the rebuild. I do have other pumps but they are MGA ones, but they may be the same as the 3 bearing B engine is very similar to the A ones.

More thought welcome.

Paul



Paul Dean

"The oil pump is the one that was fitted to the engine when I got it but some parts of it were changed during the rebuild." raises an amber flag with me. Why were parts changed? Wear? If so the casing is likely to have worn as much as the rotor, so only changing one part leaves 'half' the wear behind.
Paul Hunt

Thanks for all the thoughts. The guy who did my rebuild basically specialises in MGs and Triumphs engines only, including many racers, and he has been at it for over 30 years. And he personally has a very hot B. I suppose what I am saying here he is very unlikely to have made a silly mistake.

I will clarify Paul H's last point but I am coming to the conclusion it must almost certainly the oil pump.

Paul D
Paul Dean

I am bringing back this thread back as I have now completed all previous suggestions. See first entry for details of low oil pressure issue.

Since I was last on the list I have changed the oil pressure relief valve and the oil pump/gasket. No change in oil pressure profile.

Also at the suggestion of the rebuilder I changed the oil from Halfords to Millers, Classic 20/50 in both cases. This had the impact of dropping the oil pressure slightly further by about 3psi at all revs.

I have spoken to the rebuilder and he doesn't see it as a problem from the engine running viewpoint (with which I probably agree), BUT I don't think it is what it should be for a newly rebuilt engine hence my concern.

Otherwise the engine runs and sounds fine and has increased the pleasure of driving my 'MGA 1500'.

Before going back to my rebuilder again I wondered if anyone had any further ideas?

Paul
Paul Dean

Whilst the absolute values aren't particularly bad it's the being significantly lower for a newly rebuilt engine than many with tens of thousands of miles under their belt which would be concerning. Fine in a V8 which is known as a 'high flow, low pressure' engine, and the same wouldn't necessarily be dangerous in a 4-cylinder. Would would be worrying is if the low pressure was a cause of low flow, and not an effect of high flow as in the V8.

How long does it take to reach the initial 60psi when starting from cold, after being switched off hot a) the night before, and b) a week before? Start counting from when it starts cranking.
Paul Hunt

When the factory were "testing' theses engines, if there was a pressure problem. which I have always assumed was a machining problem, I.e., pressure relief valve drilling was a tad too deep. BMC's remedy was to insert shims into the valve head. During re-builds these shims often get lost.
Allan Reeling

We do not build three bearing engines so I am just speaking from experience of B engines in general. One problem is you do not know how the oil pressure was before as it is a 'new to you' engine, our main concern is a change in pressures implying a change in something in the engine during use.
Having said that the pressures do seem low to me. We tend to fit ball bearings in place of the bullet style relief vale which has not been available as OE quality for many many years(ball bearings give very interesting pressure profiles and can even sing to you!). It can help if you physically lap the bullet valve into its seat but cleaning out the lapping paste can be a nightmare. On two occasions we have seen cracked seats for the relief valve which no doubt would cause lower pressure readings.
Bearing clearances can cause pressure loss if they are on the large side. As folk on here are saying, you are being lead to relief valve and/or pump problems being the root cause.

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

I started the engine yesterday after not being used for 2 days and the pressure gradually climbed taking 20 secs to get up to a stable reading of 55. I also timed it later after having been off for 3 cold hours and it took 17 secs. Obviously no time for being off for a week.

My feeling is that it isn't the relief valve as if the valve was opening at 45-55, depending on oil temperature, you would surely expect the pressure to hit this at a lot lower revs than 3000 and then stay there? Hence if it isn't this and it isn't the pump, both of which have just been changed, it has to be due to some flow inside the engine being too high, and I suppose that means main or con rod bearing? The engine is running superbly after 4500 miles. It sounds fine, i.e no noisy bearing noises, and it would appear that oil is getting everywhere that it should.

Peter - Is it worth stretching the valve spring a bit and seeing if anything changes?

Any further suggestions, disagreements, or agreements?

If others agree I suppose I will just run with it and register my concern again with my rebuilder in case something happens later.


Paul
Paul Dean

Hi Paul, this University Motors video may help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMvqYVlm5jU

I inserted a shim into my oil pressure relief valve and it raised the oil pressure by about 5 PSI. Its difficult to get at with the engine in the car without removing the carbs and heat shield.

Andy
Andy Robinson

Try a new spring and a shim (or 9/16" ball bearing and new spring which may push you to 80+psi)

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

"I started the engine yesterday after not being used for 2 days and the pressure gradually climbed taking 20 secs to get up to a stable reading of 55"

That is a long, long time and says to me low output from the pump, which will cause low pressure as well as a long rise time.

But to eliminate the relief valve (bar a cracked and leaking seat) I'd pack the space between the spring and cap with washers or similar and see if that made a difference. If not, then it's not the spring at least, but the pump just has to be your main focus.
Paul Hunt

My feeling is that it is unfortunately neither the valve or the pump as I have replaced both in last 2 weeks with no change to symptoms. The slow build up issue clearly suggest that it is at least more than just the valve. But I will have the valve out again and shim it. I haven't got any suitable ball bearings but I will shim it to the level as if it had a ball bearing rather than the bullet valve. I will also see if I can get a view of the seat as I guess that could cause the slow build up and max pressure issue.

As always the John Twist video is good. I had come to the same solution about refitting the cap with engine in place but it was still a pig, also I have a wrist injury. I think I will strap my wrist up better this time.

I will be back when I have done it unless anyone wants to add anything.

Thanks for all input.

Paul
Paul Dean

If you are running the upside down paper filter don't forget it drains back everytime and has to fill almost from scratch again, hence first startup bearing rattle common on three bearing B series engines.

Another thought, does the pickup at the rear of the engine which goes to the oil filter base have the same deep section below the threads as for the oil cooler pipe adapter on an MGB? I ask as we once had a lowish pressure engine running some fancy pipe work which did not seal off the oil gallery on the plug side of the engine so the pressure was lower and engine running unfiltered oil to boot!

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

"I have replaced both"

Missed that bit. Another thing that would be interesting is how soon pressure drops to zero when switching off after the 20 secs to 55 psi i.e. a cold engine. I'm thinking that a fast drop could indicate a leak somewhere back into the sump after the filter, but a slow drop is more indicative of a restriction or lack of pressure on the pump/filter side.

Many years ago I read of someone who was getting oil pressure dropping to zero at 7000 rpm on an MGA and as part of his investigations he found that the oil pump displaced about half a fluid ounce with each turn of the pump. It occurs to me that by disconnecting the oil feed pump from the cooler you could measure the volume while cranking a given number of revolutions. How the MGA pump compares with the MGB I don't know. Similarly with a suitable adapter and external gauge you could measure the absolute pressure being developed by the pump and relief valve with no exit through the filter and engine.
Paul Hunt

Simple stuff I know, but have you bled the oil feed line to the gauge?
Allan Reeling

That won't make any difference. 55 psi in fluid is the same as 55 psi in air. If theory having the tube full of cold oil could make movement slower along it due to the much greater viscosity of oil over air. There is a slightly greater volume of air/oil inside a Bourdon at full scale deflection to zero deflection hence some flow in and out as it rises and falls. This could delay the transmission of pressure from the block to the gauge.

Because the V8 gauge is so slow to rise as standard when cold, and the pipe in that case goes right to the front of the engine compartment then down to the gauge i.e. several feet further than the 4-cylinder pipe, I've tried it with the pipe full of air and full of oil and it made no discernible difference. I've also tried an alternative gauge and a larger bore nylon tube and that didn't make any difference either. If the pipe were pinched then it could make the rise slower than it should be, but it would be every time it was cold and not just when it had been standing longer. It wouldn't cause low pressure (as also in this case) though, as at a steady pressure there is no flow, hence the tiniest gap would allow full pressure to be developed beyond it i.e. at the gauge.
Paul Hunt

Got that Paul. Just thought having compressible air in the line might affect the gauge.
Would a leak affect it. The soldered joint at the gauge end, leaked when I first got the conversion running. Apart from the oil slick can't remember whether the reading was odd?
Allan Reeling

If it's a massive leak then the gauge could well be slow and as low as described, but then as you say you would know that from the recreation of the Torrey Canyon on your carpet :o)
Paul Hunt

Good news. I have had the relief valve out again and added 3 shims each being a flattened 1/4 inch spring washer as suggested by John Twist in the video, their combined thickness is about 1/4 inch which I think reduces the spring by about the same amount as Peter's 9/16" ball bearing. After one hard run of about 15 miles it would appear that I have put the maximum oil pressure up by about 12psi and the tick over by about 5psi. It seems to get to max pressure earlier at around 2000 rather than 2500rpm. Also when I started again today after being in the garage for 24 hours the pressure seemed to come up in about 12 secs.

What is conclusive is that I have changed the situation considerably although I would like a longer run to check the precise figures out. Presumably I could get the max pressure up further with another shim, probably 4 or 5psi per shim.

While the increased max pressure makes good sense what I don't quite understand is why the lower figures improved. I did though clean the valve out and try and see it was clear with a mirror and light. Perhaps there was something in the valve which was allowing it to weep?

Before trying the valve I took Peter's suggestion and checked to take off at rear right corner and it has the correct 'extended pipe'. Worth doing as it is a lot easier than reinserting the relief valve cap with engine in the car, even harder with the shims in place.

I am now fairly happy with the pressure and am confident in my core engine rebuld. I might put another shim, or a ball bearing, in but not until the engine is out the car!

Many thanks for all the help.

Paul
Paul Dean

It sounds like the valve was not seating well, maybe poorly seat, maybe poorly valve maybe combination. as I said we cannot buy oe spec valves any more and we have had best success with ball bearings all be it a weird profile at times. The oe valves were steel then copper plated then hard chromed and they did the job well. New ones are steel with a lathe as turned finish, they damage more easily and wear out quicker and are more prone to sticking due to galling.

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

Looks like you are on the right track. I'd suggest "benchmarking" your gauge with a known "good" pressure gauge, so when /if you add shims you are confident of the (new) readings. But I note the 12 secs to get up to pressure, which to me seems long (in comparison to mine, which fires and is at 70 in about 1-2 secs)or is this to do with the upside down filter Peter refers to?
Michael Beswick

Better, but still long, especially for just overnight, and still low warm idle. Whilst I can see how shimming the spring could increase the ultimate pressure I can't see how, with a metal valve and a metal seat, how the time to reach a given pressure would be reduced, unless there is something soft and compressible between the two. Unless the spring is very weak indeed.
Paul Hunt

If the relief valve is not an oil tight fit on the seat the whole system will drain back slowly after the engine is switched off and consequently take longer to refill the whole system.

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

Paul,

I have been following this thread and not contributed because the advice offered accorded with my thinking.

The 12 second pressure take up and qualified raising of the driving pressures however have raised a memory of the experience of an MGB racer in our local club. Thought I'd offer it here just in case it applied. It is a relatively simple thing to check.

The chap I mentioned had a shop-built engine implode for the third time under racing conditions. At that time, in desperation, a full strip and check was done.

The problem turned out to be a mismatched oil pressure line block adaptor for the block used. I understand from him that these adaptors differed in length on the internal section over the production period of early and later blocks and it is imperative that the correct adaptor is matched to the block used or oil flow is impeded.

The earlier/later blocks here in Oz meaning '62 to '72, so at some time in that period.

Under racing conditions this quickly lead to oil starvation to the bearings and the significant damage being caused. The engine shop (and Club and related contacts) had applied their assembled wisdom to the problem without success prior to the strip and item by item check.

Perhaps something to discuss with your engine shop, just in case?

Regards
Roger
R Taylor

Hi Roger

I have only come across the problem with aftermarket oil line adaptors....the pretty blue and red ones with non original threads, the block adaptor was not deep enough to seal off the oil gallery as the original one does.

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

I am pretty sure my oil adapter is fine as I compared it with one I took of 1500 A engine although I didn't do precise measurements. Thanks for suggestion though.

I have rechecked the time to get to full pressure after being off for 2 days and it was same as last one, i.e. rising to full pressure over 12 secs.

To me it sounds fairly clear that I have a seating problem on the relief valve and increasing the pressure through shims has reduced the problem but not solved it. Albeit it I suspect I have no real problem running with these figures.

Before adding shims I had changed the valve to no avail but probably from an aftermarket one to another aftermarket one which to me suggests their is a seat problem. I was trying to avoid doing this job again but I suppose there are a couple of options. Before doing either I will see if I can find any way of seeing the seat down the bore with the engine in the car, perhaps a photo. First option is to try an original valve/spring out of the 1500 Gold Seal engine that I bought in 1970 and was fine in this area when I took it out last winter, it has only done around 40k miles. Second option is to go to the ball bearing option. Peter would you go directly to a ball bearing, if so I will contact you off line about this?

Paul

Paul Dean

Hi Paul, I would go to a ball bearing but it will give you 'funny' readings.
You are most welcome to contact me.
Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

Paul,

Not being sure of your meaning re 'oil adapter'.

Please note, I was not talking about the oil filter adaptor, rather the 'oil pressure line block adaptor'.

Regards
Roger
R Taylor

Have you tried something smeared on the valve, preferably engineers blue, and checking the witness marks on the seat?

1/4" extra pressure from the spring is a helluva lot.
Paul Hunt

Peter,

Thanks for that info. For completeness of this thread I'll try to pin down the details on the adaptor in the case I mentioned. The chap is over in your part of the world at the moment so may be a little while.

Regards
Roger
R Taylor

Peter

Can I ask what you mean by 'funny' readings?

Paul
Paul Dean

Peter

Please ignore my last request as I think I will pursue the the other options first. I will be back if I make any further progress.

Thanks for all the help.

Paul

Paul Dean

Hi Paul

No problems. I was implying not to expect linear readings and dead steady with ball bearing, they seem to have a mind of their own. Including singing to you at times :)

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

G'day Peter, and for info Paul,

I've had the chance to check my facts. Memory was good but not perfect. The problem my chap had was to do with the oil flow line adaptor and not the one connecting the oil pressure line.

I'm still wondering about this though, and I'm really not just trying to 'flog a dead horse'.

I mention the following because my chap advises the two adaptors involved in his case (the one mismatched and the correct one) were both factory made fittings - not aftermarket. Also, much earlier Paul had said "I bought the engine as an non runner from an MG breaker and I had it rebuilt". I'm wondering, what parts might have been needed to do that?

Earlier you asked Paul "does the pickup at the rear of the engine which goes to the oil filter base have the same deep section below the threads as for the oil cooler pipe adapter on an MGB?"

In response to you Paul said he "checked to take off at rear right corner and it has the correct 'extended pipe'."

In response to my (wrongly focused) post Paul added "I am pretty sure my oil adapter is fine as I compared it with one I took of 1500 A engine although I didn't do precise measurements"

Not knowing the 1500 A block and without actual measurements, I'm wondering, what IS the actual depth of that internal (to block) section of the adaptor needed for Paul's B block?

I would be more confident of it not being the cause of, or a contributor to, Paul's slow/low (particularly the slow) oil pressure issues if we were dealing with specific measurements.

Regards

Roger



R Taylor

Hi Paul, I have an MGA with a 3 brg B engine that has about 20000 kms on it. Oil pressure comes up within 1-2 secs of starting and goes to 65-70 psi at idle when cold. When warm runs at 70 psi all day when driving 1500- 5500 rev range - operating temp 180-190 deg F depending on ambient temp and traffic. At idle when hot oil pressure drops back to 50-55 psi (gauge flickers at idle). Idle speed 650 rpm.
I would get your gauge calibrated and if still considerably lower than these figures I reckon it is an engine out and dismantle to check components and clearances. My preference is 70 psi hot and normal driving but 55-60 is fine (determined by your relief valve setting) - i use my car for touring as well as some competition stuff.
Mike Ellsmore

All

I have been waiting to get back until I could give the car another roadtest that I did yesterday. The observations were exactly the same as I reported above on 17 October after my short run.

It is clear that the only one of many things I have tried that has had any significant effect has been putting the shims in the relief valve. Strictly speaking the engine is now in spec with a tickover at 20, i.e. between the spec 10 to 25, and the running pressure is at 55 to 60, i.e between the spec 50 to 80. There is no spec that I am aware of for how long it should take to get to max pressure. What of course is true, despite being in spec, my figures are significantly different to what others are seeing with the time to build up pressure being the most concerning. The only conclusion, considering the long pressure build up time, that I can come to is that the relief valve is not closing completely.

In terms of gauge accuracy it is the same one as I had on my previous 1500 engine and seemed fine then. Also I bought a secondhand gauge and it confirmed my max readings.

I have had another discussion with my rebuilder who is content with my readings and points out that every engine he has worked on over 30 years has given different readings, he correctly says it is 'in spec', and says the pressures I have are not a problem for the engine. He has though suggested that I remove the valve and fix the piston on suitable piece of wood dowel and try and bed it in.

My plans are: -

a) I will though use my spare gauge to confirm the pressure build up reading.
b) As I suspect the valve relief valve seat is damaged I would like to see the valve seat. I tried when I last had the valve out with a mirror and a lamp but it was impossible to get a decent view. I guess an endoscope would do the job but failing getting my hand on one of those I would need to take the engine out! Any other ideas how to view it without removing the engine????
c) If I get to see the seat hopefully I can see whether the damage is a scratch, a bit of debris stuck on the seat, a chip on the seat, or there is something in the wall rather than the seat causing an issue.
d) If it is a spec of debris or similar, i.e. a raised area of seat I will try the piston on dowel technique to clear it.

I am taking the radiator out over the winter to have it rebuilt so I suppose that it wouldn't be that difficult to also remove the engine and get an unobstructed view of the valve.

In the meantime I am content driving the car and pretty sure that I am not doing any damage.

Paul
Paul Dean

Your local independent garage probably has a Snap On Endoscope thingy with a flexible illuminated probe/camera that displays on the back of the unit. Whether it is sufficiently good to see a small nick is another matter as I don't think they magnify.

Did you try engineers blue to see if there were any witness marks? Then I'd try Peters Ball Bearing and a new spring before pulling the engine. I'd suggest there's quite a difference between removing the rad and the engine.....

You could argue that a longer time to get to pressure, whilst increasing the wear, is unlikely to do much damage, tho I suppose it will reduce it's overall working life.
Michael Beswick

Paul, an iPhone 5s or other smart phone camera is a great way to view hard to see places.
The trouble with lapping the seat in is removing the lapping paste - very difficult with an assembled engine. I have my doubts whether lapping is critical for the oil relief valve - i dont believe it will improve your oil pressure (unless there is a chip in the seat, then it will need to be recut anyway). Like your builder says it is now in spec , use the car and your problem will only be if the reading start to fall.
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Hi Paul


Maybe time to chill out and enjoy the performance gain from a larger engine. The figures are within spec. If you only had an oil light you wouldn't see the oil pressure profile. If you convert to the later non return filter the pressure would come up quicker. You are using good modern oils so should have more than adequate protection.

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

I will take Peter's advice and enjoy the the cars increased power and torque. If I have the engine out any time in future I will probably have a look at the valve seat but only if the engine is coming out for other reasons, or of course the pressure changes.

Just one question for Peter. My filter is downward pointing as is standard on MGAs and the 3 bearing MGB engines hence cannot drain unlike the later MGB inverted ones. Presumably there is no point in changing to a later one in this case?

Many thanks to all for the help with this issue.

The reason I made this engine change was because every Spring in recent years when I got my 1500 MGA (which I have owned for 45 years) out it seemed slow compared to my everyday cars. This is no longer true with the extra 30% power and 50% torque from externally identical engine. In fact it now almost has the same power to weight ratio as my 2.0TDi Golf.

Paul


Paul Dean

Hi Paul

If the filter isn't the upside down variety you are ok :) Everyone says the bigger engine transforms the MGA.

Peter
Peter Burgess Tuning

if you're running with an oil cooler I'd also strongly suggest you fit an oil thermostat - as it is by this time of the year your oil cooler needs blanking off, as it also does many times in the summer hence the need for an automatic system like a thermostat or a lot of farting about putting a blind in front of the oil cooler and then taking it away and putting it back and farting about like this forever

personally I wouldn't have an oil cooler fitted unless it's on a track car or you constantly tow a heavy boat or something

as Peter's put you want to get out and enjoy your new engine, get plenty of miles on it as soon as you can to run it in, stick with a good mineral 20w/50 until you've done 6-12,000 miles
Nigel Atkins

I simply tie an old Rally Plaque in front of the oil cooler for winter use (tho the oil cooler sits on the plinth in front of the rad)
Michael Beswick

I have never had an oil cooler. Although they were available on As as an optional extra I don't think they were common so no problem here.

Paul
Paul Dean

Never bothered. Used my V8 all year round including well below zero and never had a problem. Something else to go wrong.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 21/07/2014 and 28/10/2014

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