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MG MGB Technical - Order of reassembly - '73 BGT Doors?

Just to avoid a rookie error: would a suitable order of reassembly be (including new doorskins without holes for side strips):

(1) Fit striker plate to body and lock plate to door; keep spacers handy for final adjustment.
(2)Fit lock barrel assembly to doorskin.Fit outer door handle.
(3)Fit front 1/4 window to door;front glass channel snug but not fully tight.
(4)Install rear glass channel,again snug but not fully tight.
(5)Fit rubber seal to top of outer doorskin; then cover with masking tape and lubricate with liquid soap.
(6)Winder mechanism inserted and bolted in place, not fully tight.
(7)Glass inserted; rollers located in runners. Sit glass inside runners with new felt strips.
(8)Adjust and tighten F and R channels to ensure smooth operation of window winder.
(9)Fit internal door lock mechanism, connect rods & clips. Lubricate with silicone spray and check operation of locks internal and external.
(10)Fit interior door trim. inc. top rail with furry strip contacting interior of glass.
(11)Adjust door fit (with weight of door) to correct gaps all round.
(12) Nervously measure alignment of side chrome strips; mask and drill holes in pristine doorskin; install fixings and fit chrome strips.
(13) Check opening/closing of built-up door, locking mechanisms and handles.

This is just from memory, so if anyone has recently completed the build-up of door components,I would really value your input as to "best practise"! Kind Regards, John.
J P Hall

Looks OK, but latch, handles and locks can be removed and replaced in an otherwise complete door.

The door carcass may need to be twisted to make the rear edge flush with the rear wing, when you have set the hinges to get the front edge flush. If the crease on the rear wing is not in line with that in the front wing then you may need to adjust the position of the front wing. Mine was too high, so I slackened the bolts on the rear vertical edge and along the bottom, put a piece of timber between the top of the wing and the underside of the garage roof, and jacked up under the chassis rail. Before painting, I hasten to add.

Use the after-market clamps to secure the lock in the skin, not the silly original spring-clips.

I'm not sure how much fore and aft movement there is of the quarter-lights, but they must only just kiss the bulbous part of the screen seal, not compress it. With the door correct in the opening you may need to adjust the screen to suit. There is quite a bit of side to side movement at the bottom of the long leg of the quarter-light, and this is used to get some clearance between the side of the quarter-light frame and the thin part of the screen seal, ll the way up. If the quarter-light has too tight an engagement with the screen seal you can get the door skin crack.

Dip the trim-strip rivets in Waxoyl or similar, and the stud plates at the extreme ends. If you have double-skins anywhere you may need to swap the standard rivets for long reach. And if any of the existing holes are large or irregular then you may need backing washers. Unless the sharp end of the rivet can deform entirely behind the panel (or washer) they will come loose. Paint the back of the strips with Waxoyl.
Paul Hunt

Assuming the shell is painted, just be careful when first hanging and opening a door that the front edge of the door doesn't catch the back edge of wing and thereby chip off the paint.
The quarter light assembly needs packing more often than not. Both on the short vertical bit which bolts to front of the door (accessed through the two holes on the sloping bit of the carcase) and also between the bottom of the light itself and the top of the door.
Allan Reeling

On point 12: Don't keep drilling til you go through the outer skin!
Pat Gregory

"On point 12: Don't keep drilling til you go through the outer skin".Don't get that!
You will probably find that the fitting kit for the Stainless Steel side strips will contain only one stud plate for the door strip as this is how the factory did it. But like Paul, I tend to use more than supplied, making my own out of stainless or brass.
Allan Reeling

"On point 12: Don't keep drilling til you go through the outer skin!"

?? That's exactly what you do do - drill through the outer skin from the outside! Or did you mean 'inner skin'? If the glass is in wind up the window ...
Paul Hunt

Sorry, making the point, don't do as I did, drill the holes for the chrome strip & keep going through the outer skin & the new paintwork.
Pat Gregory

Pat,
Still don't get what point you are making. You have to drill holes through the door skin, the clips for the stainless steel strips are riveted and screwed through the door skin, 1/8" for the rivets and 3/16" for the screw(s).
Allan Reeling

Thanks all for your comments.
Paul: luckily, we have no need to twist the door carcass; but I notice that with a trial fit of the doorseal, the whole door sits several mm proud - looks like a loosening of the hinge bolts to move the door inwards - but I smell a problem with the rubber seal resisting the pressure, making it difficult to shut the door.
I have the aftermarket doorlock clamps, thank you.
Your other comments are also gratefully received.

Allan: the 1/4 light does need packing - the proprietary sponge seal is not adequate. I'm thinking of adding a strip of dynamat (leftovers) to suit.

Pat, as noted I am drilling from the outside, but will need to be careful because I don't plan to fit the side trim strips until absolutely last - so will need to avoid drilling through to the door glass. A block of wood inserted into the door cavity should prevent an accident.

All comments gratefully received, gentlemen. I'll report back any problems or solutions. Regards, John.
J P Hall

Not much problem as regards the glass as long as the window is wound up.
Tip; When riveting, after the blind rivet as "pulled up", stop pushing and start pulling! That way the tool and the sharp, sheared end of the mandrel won't go skating across your pristine paintwork!!
Allan Reeling

Ah hah! - Pat, I've just worked out that you're thinking of the "Door waist finisher", drilling from the inside to fit the rivets. I was referring to the "moulding" or trim down the length of the sides. Will definitely keep your experience in mind!

Allan - yup, been there, done that! John.
J P Hall

This thread was discussed between 26/02/2016 and 02/03/2016

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