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MG MGB Technical - Original springs/uprated damper?

Hello,

I have just finished reassembling my front suspension only to find out that the dampers are believed to be uprated. The previous owner fitted shorter springs with these dampers, however I have purchased original spec standard ones. I have attached a photo showing the assembled suspension. Should the damper fit standard springs? Does it look ok assembled?

Many thanks,

Alex Davies

'Uprated' dampers are uprated by either (i) thicker oil, (ii) stronger springs in relief valve (inside of the damper) or (iii) both. In which case an uprated damper is geometrically identical to a 'standard' damper ie it makes no difference.

Am I right in thinking that the weight of the car is not on the wheels yet? Also, there doesn't seem to be any thread protruding through the nut on the inner pivot so the nyloc is not doing anything for you.

N
Neil22

Thanks for your comments, the car is on the wheels but there is no weight in the car (the engine, gearbox, interior are not in the car).

With regard to the nyloc nuts the thread is just about through the nut, however I have had to go with nyloc nuts because the the castle nut wouldn't go on far enough to enable the split pin to go through. Is this common?

Thanks,
Alex Davies

Alex. Neil is correct that there is no external difference between the "uprated" hydraulic dampeners and the "standard" hydraulic dampeners. I am using the uprated ones, from World Wide Imports in Wisconsin, with standard springs on my 68GT. Worked well for quite a number of years.

As to the kingpins, the new ones I have used, over the last ten years, have come with a nyloc nut rather than a castle nut (castellated nut). In all cases, the nyloc nut went down onto the kingpin sufficiently that the nylon locking feature was engaged and thread protruded from above the nut. This is based on three front end rebuilds over the last ten years and my experience has been consistent with all of them.

Thus, I believe there is something wrong with your front end rebuild, perhaps dangerously so.

Neil. As Major Bumsore would say, "Damned fine eyes, Old Chap, damned fine eyes". I could not see what you were referring to, even after having Alex confirm that it was there.

Les
Les Bengtson

My guess is you have mixed up the nuts - there are two "heights" of the castellated nuts but they have the same thread so appear to fit except for the pin holes.
Chris at Octarine Services

Three threads should be protruding from the nylon insert for safety, but I hate the idea of just a Nyloc in that location as it is the only thing holding the car up! Some sources in the UK at least were supplying kits with a Nyloc a few years ago (the last time I bought one) where no threads were protruding as the special bolt is too short for them. One size of castellated is also too tall, but as Chris says there is a lower profile one that fits and should be used. In the past I've carefully cut down a tall one to fit.
P Hunt

Upper bolt is probably not long enough if you have used poly bushes as the flanges ar 'thicker', or at least don't compress so much.

Might be the same problem on the inner pivot? WOndering if the washer is a bit thick, too?

Nothing wrong with nyloc if they are used properly. Like split pins, they don't take any load as such, just prevent loose nuts getting any looser...

N
Neil22

I agree with Paul here, split pins every time! Nylocs, fibre nuts, deformed nuts etc., are all classed as "stiff" nuts, i.e., designed not to vibrate loose. Castlated and slot nuts (there is a difference), like wiring offer a positive lock. Castelated nuts by the way, have a "turned" section where the slots are and are taller.
Going back to the suspension, have the nuts been torqued up? Can't remember the figure off hand. I used poly bushes, with SS centres, and slot nuts with heavy washers and had no problems fitting the split pins. Are the pivots the original ones?
Allan Reeling

40 ft lb
P Hunt

This thread was discussed between 06/12/2009 and 14/12/2009

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