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MG MGB Technical - Rattle Noises coming from front end
My car is a 1973 MGB. It has been gone through - not frame off, but major repairs, etc. and the car is solid and runs great. The question I am having is that when I go over a series of bumps I keep getting a rattle coming from the front end of my car - it sounds like it is from the drivers side. Everything is tight that I can see. The rattle is like the dash is almost loose but I know that it is not as I have had it out of the car and it is tight. It is not one small rattle/creaking noise, - on a scale of one to ten maybe a five. I am also pretty sure that it is not in or coming from the steering column. The shocks are fairly new and so is most of the suspension. All new bushings, etc, about three years ago. I know it may be hard to suggest anything with this limited information, but does anyone have any suggestions of where to start looking or what it might be? Thanks, Robert |
Robert Browning |
Check that the shock mounting bolts are tight. Also look for bad or loose seals between the cross-member and the body. Clifton |
Clifton Gordon |
Clifton or anyone, The loose seals between the body and cross member - this sounds like what I think the rattle sounds like. Where do I look for these seals? How hard are they to replace/fix? Thanks, Robert |
Robert Browning |
Robert, There are four mounting the cross-member to the body bolts, the nuts are visible in the engine compartment on the side frame rails. Two on each side. The bolts have a rectangular seal between the bolt head and cross-mount and another seal between the body frame rail and the cross-member. The rear seals are visible under the car on the rear side of the cross-member. The other two are inside the cross-member and as I recall aren't visible, or they aren't easy to see. The seals can get oil soaked or dry rot and become useless. Tightening the bolts may not help but you should be able to check for looseness with a pry bar. Replacing isn't too difficult, replacing the two bolts inside the cross-member can be a problem. You will have to do some dis-assembly of the front end depending on what other work you may need/want to do. Front end drawing is in this link http://www.mgexperience.net/article/front-suspension.html Clifton |
Clifton Gordon |
Very lightly apply the brakes while going over the bumps, just enough to get the pads to tuch the rotors. If the noise disappears you have brake pads that rattle in the calipers. This drove me nuts until I found the cause on my MGC, the pads have just enough edge clerance to rattle in the caliper when I hit a bump or seam in the road. |
John H |
John, I have already tried tapping the brakes and eliminated this but thanks for the suggestion anyway. The noise rattle I am getting is more pronounced then just a brake pad rattle. It resonates through out the front of the car, mainly on the drivers side. To me I think that Clifton's suggestion makes the most sense. I plan to check it as soon as get a chance. From initial glances I think the pads are original in my car - if they are still present at all. I am still open to other suggestions. Thanks, Robert |
Robert Browning |
& spring pan bolts antisway bar linkages.Has the bar moved over, they sometimes do. various bushes check the gearbox mount and restraining bar and since noises have a way of being reflected around MGB's, because of the windscreen, exhaust and rear suspension |
Peter |
Have you checked the clearance between the exhaust and the body. I know from my own experience it can be heared throughtout the whole car. If your car is LHD you surely will here it from the drivers side. |
Rainier |
Loose/lost tools or parts in/around the MC box or in the stiffener boxes inside the fenders. Once had one where the fuel filter would bang on surrounding panels. FRM |
FR Millmore |
Bonnet (hood) stay? I had a rattle I could not find for years, and of course when you are rattle hunting under there it is not in the postition it is in when it rattles. |
Stan Best |
This thread was discussed between 20/08/2007 and 24/08/2007
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