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MG MGB Technical - Rear hub removal
|69 GT tube Axle|
I have the axle (as well as everything else) off the car. I want to replace the oil seals, re pack the wheel bearings and replace the thrust washers.
Is there a knack to removing the main nut? I have tried a 2 foot Tommy bar whilst wedging a length of 3/4 tube between the wheel stubs but it isn't budging. I've soak it with penetrating oil for 2 days so far. I have almost resigned myself to waiting until it's back on the car but I would prefer to get it done before.
I would be grateful of any tips or suggestions.
|With the axle off the car, about the only way to free that nut is with an impact gun. If you don't have access to a compressor and impact gun, you can bring the axle to a local garage that will surely have the equipment to loosen the nut. RAY|
|Number 1; The bearings are lubricated by the hypoid gear oil, the only time they ever see any grease when new bearings are installed just to protect them.|
Number 2; I assume by thrust washers you are referring to the shims on the differential gears.
Put the wheels on, Chock up the nose of the dif, and the wheels, get a couple of people to sit on the axle get your extension bar and a length of tube.
|Thanks for the reply Ray. I have a compressor so I may have to invest in an impact gun. After I posted I found an article on Paul Hunts site that made me think if I was being a bit timid. I will up the size of the Tommy bar and try again.|
Thanks for correcting my post, not sure it was necessary but thanks anyway.
|"I have tried a 2 foot Tommy bar whilst wedging a length of 3/4 tube between the wheel stubs but it isn't budging."|
This is exactly how I did mine. Maybe the hub nuts had already been loosened before I bought the axle. But if things weren't jumping off, then you do need to use a longer bar.
Number 1 is correct in that axle bearings normally run in oil, but the WSM does say to repack them before refitting. As you are removing the half-shafts anyway it's not going to do any harm.
Number 2 - whilst there are shims, they are used to adjust the crown-wheel and pinion backlash and carrier bearing fit, and wouldn't normally be touched. Other than that it IS replacement of differential gear thrust washers that is the usual work done on these axles, i.e. clonk repair.
If you need any extra weight to hold it down, let me know.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
I've managed to get them both loose and the hub of the one side.
Cleaning things up on he one side first before tackling hd other.
|Thanks Dave but I have managed to get them loose,I even managed to the drain and filler plugs out on my own 😆|
|LOL, nice one!|
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|Don't know why i have suddenly assumed anonymity! What has happened to these pages? |
|Ah, so that's who it is. Everyone else seems to be displaying as before, on my screen at least.|
|Hi Paul, think I'm back again. Everything seemed to have re-set itself to an odd format and all that code! Computers!!*** And just to think people trust these things to control their Euro-boxes, THEY CRASH!!!|
|"And just to think people trust these things to control their Euro-boxes, THEY CRASH!!!"|
And our money!
I've just been to Aldi in Sheldon and they have an impact gun reduced from £19.99 to £9.99
It includes 10x impact sockets, although they will be metric.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
I'll be there tomorrow as I need a replen for the wine rack!
|Is that the air gun? Have to say I wasn't impressed. The first one didn't work at all, the second seemed weak. I took it apart, checked it over and reassembled it and it seemed better, but still struggles with wheel nuts previously tightened to 60 ft lb. Cut off tool is similarly weak, stalls very easily. Several other similar negative comments if you Google. The compressor is my own, the biggest that will run off single-phase apparently.|
|Paul, what pressure are you using. You need as much pressure as possible, about 150psi. You are better off buying a good quality brand like Chicago Pneumatics etc you won't regret it.|
|Pressure isn't as important as Cubic Feet Per Minute delivery (CFM) in measuring a compressor's ability to break loose a stubborn nut. An absolute minimum of 6 CFM is required for most applications. The more the better. RAY|
|Ray, yes you are right about CF/M it is important, but Paul mentioned that he had the largest compressor that can run on UK single phase electrics, so I assumed that it would be big enough to run a 1/2" air gun.|
This thread was discussed between 07/11/2015 and 19/11/2015
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