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MG MGB Technical - Removal of Rear Bearing Carrier in Gearbox?

Any tricks to getting the rear bearing carrier out of a 3-sync gearbox? I'm talking about the one in the rear of the main housing where the mainshaft comes out into the rear housing.

The manuals suggest tapping from inside with a punch and it's obvious someone has already done that in the past, judging by the markings in the metal. But I'm afraid to hit it any harder because it has barely moved, and only at the very top. I can't get a punch and hammer down inside far enough to actually hit it from the other side, and I don't want to force it out crooked.

HELP!
Steve Simmons

Can't tell you how many times I smashed knuckles with the cockeyed punch problem! If it's a late A or B, put the DS flange on, with a big piece of pipe over the shaft to act as a slide hammer. Early A are harder, but similar can be done by putting a giant washer under the speedo drive retaining nut. Frequently helps a lot to heat the case up with heat lamps or similar, which will loosen the death grip the housing has on the bearing adapter. Once you get the adapter cattywhompus, you have to tap it back and start over.
FRM
FR Millmore

Don't forget to matchmark the case and adapter before you move anything!
Or you will be forevermore removing and replacing the bloody adapter to get it in the right orientation!
FRM
FR Millmore

This is a D-Type OD gearbox so there are no rear threads!
Steve Simmons

Ain't you the lucky dude!
I've used various assorted levers and spacers inside the box in stubborn cases to push the thing out. It takes much longer to find/make the right widgets than it does to pry it out.
FRM
FR Millmore

Tell me about it. I've tried heat, punches, etc and nothing will remove it. I briefly considered putting jaws on the nut which holds the distance piece on the shaft and then using a slide hammer gently on that, but I'm terrified of damaging the shaft or threads.

Still working on it, but no luck. Any suggestions welcome, good or bad! :)
Steve Simmons

I always figured that if I got one that would not come out, I would drill and tap a couple of holes in the adapter, so I could put a bar across as a puller. But, it never got that bad, and I did hundreds of them. Tap it back in solidly and start over.
FRM
FR Millmore

I've pushed it back in five times. each time I try to remove it, I seem to get a little farther. Unfortunately that may be because the tolerance is getting wider! If I ruin this piece and / or the gearbox housing it won't really matter. I was going to give it away when I'm done anyway. The OD unit and the shaft I'm removing are going in another gearbox. I'm just trying to not destroy anything that might be useful for someone else.

I thought about drilling a couple holes and putting a slide hammer on it but there isn't much metal there. Tomorrow I'll tackle it and get it out even if I have to cut it with a sawzall.
Steve Simmons

It can't be that hard. Been a while for me, but as I recall, If you have the layshaft out, you can pull the 1st motion shaft out the front, then with a soft drift drive the 3rd mo shaft backwards.
FRM
FR Millmore

Get an assistant to hold the gearbox upright by the shaft and then tap the casing downwards using a soft faced hammer - works every time with 3 and 4 synchro boxes
Chris at Octarine Services

Steve

The method Chris mentions is fast and easy and with care will not damage anything. One word of caution, use a block of wood between hammer and case to ensure no damage. I too struggled until I did it this way and it was really slick.

Just took a Triumph box apart for a rebuild and the stubborn middle bearing (the one in the back of the main case) would not budge and all indication were that it required special equipment to remove. Oxy/acet torch moved it quickly but also means replacement of the bearing. Always ensure that a replacement is available prior to resorting to damaging a bearing.

Brian
Brian Smith

This thread was discussed between 03/03/2007 and 06/03/2007

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