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MG MGB Technical - Removing Oil Cooler Hose from Block

I may have to replace this but I could use some pointers about how to get a wrench or socket on the union at the block. I don't see an angle that will work. Any tips?

Dan
Dan Hiltz

The only problem I can recall was keeping the adapter still while I unscrewed the fitting on the end of the hose, I used a flat-blade screwdriver wedged between a flat of the adapter and the back-plate. The first time I did it was engine out for a clutch change and removed the gauge hose first, it's the only thing that seems to be in the way. Subsequently I replaced the cooler hoses and probably removed it again as a matter of course.

Use the double-spanner technique at the cooler to avoid twisting the ports off the cooler. Fit the spanners so that you only need to squeeze the two handles together without applying any twisting force to the cooler body for both removal (as in the attached) and refitting (reversed).


paulh4

Thanks Paul. I'm hoping to be able to do this without pulling the engine!
Dan Hiltz

You would have some stuff getting in the way if you pulled the engine without disconnecting the hoses :o)
paulh4

Paul I think Don wants to remove the fitting at the back of the block?

From memory you have to remove the oil pressure switch at least. Then 2 open ended spanners, leaving the adaptor in the block and removing only the hose. Might have to use a shortened spanner?

Colin
Colin Parkinson

Dan, I've just checked the size of my Oil Cooler hose fitting and It's 15/16". Maybe a Crows Foot Spanner would suit you? As Colin says, to give better access you would be best to remove the Oil Pressure Gauge hose and maybe the distributor cap as well.

Found this Crows Foot Spanner on eBay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284578521646?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=284578521646&targetid=4584757337008490&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=431353847&mkgroupid=1298523655396099&rlsatarget=pla-4584757337008490&abcId=9301942&merchantid=87779&msclkid=f48dba08d72115a96957dccad3e47f62

Andy
Andy Robinson

? My first para clearly describes the fitting at the back of the block and removing the gauge hose for access. I assumed - maybe incorrectly - Dan's comment was a joke.

The only oil pressure switch on an MGB (from the factory) would be the switch for the anti run-on valve, and that is on the bulkhead at the other end of the gauge hose. I doubt that switch would be in the way.

Maybe you meant the transducer for the electric oil gauge, but that was only used on early Mk2s for North America and would have to be removed as for the hose.

In my experience hydraulic fittings vary in size, I have to use different spanners to remove the old ones compared to fitting the new. I'd imagine the gauge hose/transducer would still have to be removed to use a crows-foot, flat spanners did the job for me.
paulh4

Thanks guys. I am interested in the best way to remove the rear oil cooler hose from the block. I agree that the oil pressure sending unit will need to removed but even with that there's no good angle to get at it with an open-ended wrench. Perhaps the crows foot socket is the best way. I've never used one. How you apply enough torque to remove a nut that's been there for 50 years???

Dan


Dan Hiltz

I've only ever used my big open-ended spanner. I may have removed the dissy, although I can't remember.
Dave O'Neill 2

You don't need the spanner to be square-on to the hex, it can be at an angle. Obviously the greatest torque is when it _is_ square on and the minimum when it is perpendicular, but there should be plenty of torque available with the spanner angled to clear the distributor - they are big spanners. If not enough then remove the distributor as well but I have no note or memory of doing that.
paulh4

i used a big open spanner , having removed the oil sender hose. I also removed the distributor cap & covered the remainder of the distributor assembly with a towel to give some protection if the big spanner slipped off / i was clumsy using it!
Cheers,
Charles
Charles9

The problem removing that hose connection is that often the fitting to the block will break loose first. Once the hose is removed, it is essential to tighten the fitting against its copper washer to the point where the hose collar can be loosened without having the fitting unthread first. Spanners and patience...
Glenn Mallory

That's where I say above to wedge a flat-blade screwdriver between one of the flats on the adapter and the engine back-plate to keep it still.
paulh4

This thread was discussed between 17/08/2024 and 16/09/2024

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