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MG MGB Technical - Reskinning doors

I have two new Heritage door skins and two reasonably well prepared frames. Before I start with the hammer, any advice from someone who has done this before would be much appreciated.

Richard
Richard Coombs

Richard,
It's surprisingly easy - just take your time.
This may help:
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/door04/

David
David Overington

richard
if you have an accedent repair centre near you get them to do it for you as it will give a better egde thinner instead of uneven thicker
i put flex seam sealer on each side of the door before i crimped it then just smoothed it round when it squeezed out
if the gaps are poor when refit just use your mig welder and add some weld to the edge of the skin and reshape to get a good door fit
make sure you dont flatten the bottom edge out or the bottom of the door will stick out
ste
Ste Brown

Continually check the width across the door skin as you tap the flange over, or you can end up with a massive shut-line gap. I've heard of someone having to weld a fillet down the edge afterwards.
Paul Hunt 2

Richard,

i have done a lot of welding on my B's during the years, even repaired parts of the door skin, but when it came to renew the whole skin, i had it done from a professional coach builder.

The problem with the the DIY is the missing practice and insufficiant toos and this can end up with poor fitting and many little dents and bends. It is not that much work fore someone who is traind to such a job and i was afraight to ruin more than i would be able to save.

Ralph
Ralph

I know a wide gap looks awful, so when I fitted mine I erred on the wide side.The first one I fitted was just thous wider and it fouled the front wing as it opened. But as you have got the parts have a go, you will learn from the first.
c cummins

Thanks for all the advice guys. I had not thought of the need to monitor the width so I'll now get some measurements done before and during. Incidentally, what gap is considered 'correct'?
Regards
Richard
Richard Coombs

What are the upper and lower limits of what you have now? Mine are about 5mm, a mil or two more than that above the trim strip (which *is* a little on the large side) and about 3-4mm round the curve at the lower rear corner. The closer the better, I suppose, but you wouldn't want rubbing, and paint will add some thickness. You would want some scope for moving the door in the hole for fine adjustment, and that might mean shimming or de-shimming the striker plate on the B-pillar.
Paul Hunt 2

This thread was discussed between 21/08/2007 and 24/08/2007

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