MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - Scissor Jack and Central Jacking Point

I had some fun at the weekend and managed to puncture both RH tyres fractions of a second apart on a HERO rally special test.

Luckily there were plenty of MGBs on it, over 20, and I managed to borrow a second spare to get me to the lunch halt where I got them both plugged using 'strings' by the sweeps.

Changing them in a farmyard was 'fun' though, and even with a bespoke 'ebay special' ratchet handle on the scissor jack it took ages. The fronts are particularly difficult to get at the jack to raise it with the jack under the spring pan. It all seemed so easy in my garage....It was a very short lunch break.

My plan is to weld a 21 mm nut onto the jack end a carry a small Milwaukee 3/8 M12 impact wrench to raise and lower it which will also be able to spin the wheel nuts off and on as well. I do not have room for a trolley jack under the GT boot cover.

I think the best place to put the jack is under the central factory jacking point for ease of access and only one jacking required if I ever do 2 at once again! The jacking points are sound.

To make this more stable I am looking to have a suitably shaped block of wood to 'cradle' the tube and sit on the scissor jack - has anyone tried this noting the car is somewhat lower with 2 flats on one side!
Mike Dixon

I wouldn't put a scissor jack under the central factory point unless it had been modified to engage with the tube in the same way. In fact if that is sound enough to lift the whole of the side of the car (I wouldn't dream of that on either of mine) why not use the factory jack anyway? I know it's bigger than a typical scissors, but it can't weigh that much more. Maybe an air-bag ...

My scissors works but I don't like being under part of the car so I cut and shut a section in so the crank is now 2ft from the jack.

I initially carried a bottle jack - hydraulic with a screw extension but with a flat tyre it wouldn't lift the car high enough to get the wheel off! Pondering doing it in stages with the spare under part of the body another MGB went past the end of the road, saw me, came back and with two jacks we did the job. After that I carried the scissors as well as the bottle for local trips, but long distance carry a trolley-jack which together with the tool box fits across the boot over the axle.

The other issue with CBs is that if I jack under the axle the wheel goes up into the arch and won't come off, and if under the front hanger won't go high enough without using the trolley, so it has to be under the front half of the leaf spring. Don't use the rear half or it is likely to slip as the angle changes.


paulh4

Here's a pic of a Falcon jack, that C shaped piece of it clips under the bumper bar on a Falcon and lifts from there, but it's separate to the jack and just unhooks. the std dick thing off a std MGB jack could easily be modified to fit there instead----------up she goes.
willy

William Revit

I picked up a scissor jack about 5 years ago at a car boot sale. The jack as i recall was originally for a Renault 9 & cost me £3 !!! It came with a case , that up side down neatly fits in the corner of the boot footwell besides the spare wheel (UK near side).
I keep a suitable block of 3" X 2" wood to mount the base on ,that both enables a suitable lifting height for each corner & stops the base sinking into soft ground.Pictures attached.
Cheers, Charles




Charles9

I forgot the block of wood I have as well!
paulh4

Some interesting ideas and jacks there - who would have thought there were so many options! I will have another look at airbags, but they look bulky?

I will have another look at getting a trolley jack in the boot, but it will not be for the longer rallies; the spares list we take are quite comprehensive as we have superb mechanical backup - as long as you have the parts. I have seen clutch release bearing fitted overnight in a hotel car park and a Lotus Cortina gear box replaced (thanks to a locals donation, the wonders of the internet)

I am not a fan of the factory jack to be honest and the scissor one tucks in really well in the small shelf at the rear of the boot space - not certain why the aversion to using the centre point if it is sound?? I think the key is getting the car as level as you can.

Speed is of the essence and having seen the scissor jack/ impact driver method on Targa we marshaled on a couple of weeks ago, I could not believe how fast it was - 2 wheels in easily under 5 minutes from stop to going again when going from gravel to tarmac

If the centre point really is not suitable, I may have to think again. The rear wheels are easy enough using the spring mount point - I might cut a block to fit that better. But it is the front I struggle with.

I will have to have a play as how best to do it. I find getting the jack secure under the spring pan a challenge and then getting at it to raise it is an issue without getting even partially under the car - the brace takes far too long for me on a good day, even when normal length.

I need a 3 foot 3/8 socket extension!
Mike Dixon

Ahh- i'd posted then posted again and only the second one with the falcon jack shows -- my mistake I guess.
My first post was a pitking jack then next was a falcon jack that you could adapt to suit--Magic jack climbs up the pole by ratchet into teeth on the pole 3-4 pumps and it's right up there----Not sure of the price of a pitking but they work similar by climbing up the pole.

It's what you need, they're fast and stow away quite well.
Like you I can't see an issue using the factory jacking point, if the car's too weak to be jacked there then maybe it shouldn't be on the road at all-----------
William Revit

"airbags, but they look bulky?"

Only when inflated? ;o)

No experience of them, obviously a different shape but a trolley jack is pretty bulky as well as heavy. Took mine with us for two weeks self-catering in France in the roadster, without a boot-lid rack.

My aversion to using the factory jacking point - even when sound - was the thought of jacking _under_ it rather than using a bar inside the tube which cannot slip off. Having said that a pal speared his sill with the factory jack when the car rolled while raised.

Hope the owner of the attached wiped that spinner hammer ...


paulh4

I wouldn’t put jacking points in the centre of the sills when rebuilding my Mg 15/20 years ago. If you do you will find out just how good they are or are not. I have seen several jacks raise and the car doesn’t if you get my drift.
Trevor Harvey

As there seems to be a consensus on not using the central jacking point, my current plan is to use the rear spring hanger and the front chassis rail that runs front to rear, where I normally put the axle stands - just tried it and it works well. A bit of ply under the jack base will add to stability.

Add in a 21mm/1/2 in drive adapter like this ( others are available this was the first hit)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186747023151?_ul=GB&rb_itemId=186747023151&rb_pgeo=GB&var=0&ff=11&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5339059258&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQjwkZm_BhDrARIsAAEbX1Eu0RvN-38t_z4F6T2EiV8kok21Zut9MAgXCcUVlG4It4dFU2fzxdcaAjZuEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZm_BhDrARIsAAEbX1Eu0RvN-38t_z4F6T2EiV8kok21Zut9MAgXCcUVlG4It4dFU2fzxdcaAjZuEALw_wcB:

I can raise the jack with a 3/8 ratchet and longish extension, both of which I always carry with a few sockets on a rail in the tool roll. No need to get under the car.

An impact driver will be the final touch to really speed thing up


Mike Dixon

I don't like using the front chassis rail because it tilts upwards as the car is raised and I don't want it slipping.

For me it's either the spring pan for one corner, or the _rear_ edge of the front crossmember with a claw-type jack pad on the trolley jack for the whole of the front. Has to be the rear edge as if you jack under the flat part that does slip because of the changing angle as the car is raised.
paulh4

This thread was discussed between 24/03/2025 and 29/03/2025

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG MGB Technical BBS now