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MG MGB Technical - Squealing rear brakes

I searched the archives so if this has been discussed please pardon me.

Can't think of anything else other than the worn bumps that are part that the shoes right on. If the giant brains here have any idea I'm open. Getting new plates is not reasonable since they are NLA. The car has plenty of miles on it and I didn't lube that area in the past which is probably why it worn down.

So here's the scenario: If I put some grease (same as I use to lube the car) on those areas the rears are quiet for say 100 miles. Then the squeaking come back.

If anyone has suggestions its welcome. Not the end of the world but would be nice to address it. Since taking the photo I ground the second ridge flat although that had no affect.


Max71

Had the same squeak, grease, quiet, squeak scenario myself on both fronts and backs at various times.

For the rears in desperation I swapped the shoes between sides, and many years later no repeat. 'Go figure'.
paulh4

I had read about swapping (maybe your post?). Everything is new.

Shoes, springs, drums...
Max71

"If I put some grease (same as I use to lube the car)". DON"T! Use copper-slip, not grease. As the grease heats up it will potentially contaminate the linings. This is one possible cause of "judder"/squealing.
Bevel, with a file the edges and the leading edges of the linings and de-glaze the drums with abrasive.
Allan Reeling

Thanks Allan!!!

Every time I break any glaze on the shoes/drums. So something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Purpose-Copper-Grease-Squeal-Assembly/dp/B00KLYTVM8

I even wondered if I could somehow cement some silicone pads usually used on the backs of disc brake pads.

If the above is correct I'll try and track it down locally.

"Bevel, with a file the edges and the leading edges of the linings and de-glaze the drums with abrasive."

I want to do this correctly. Are you talking about all the edges? Or the ones that go into the adjuster and cylinder? Or the back side that meet that area that's worn?
Max71

I can only locally find this. Is it the same or order that one from Amazon.

LoctiteŽ Copper Based Anti-Seize Lubricant
Max71

Max. As the drums wear raised edges are created, bevelling the edges compensates for this and allows the business area of the lining to contact the business area of the drum right from installation.
If you imagine a line across the drum, the leading edge of the shoe is the end which this line contacts first as the wheel rotates. Just take off the sharp edge.
Also as the drum wears it's internal diameter increases. The new shoes, on the other hand, are manufactured to match new drums. They therefore need time to "wear" so the curves match and you need maximum contact so this matching can take place quickly before glazing takes place.
Copper based "anti-seize is not a grease as such but copper powder suspended in carrier which evaporates leaving the copper as the lubricant.
Either of your suggestions are OK.
Allan Reeling

Much appreciated Allan! Drums and shoes were replaced at the same time. I'm familiar with the issues you mentioned regarding wear. Since drums became readily available and cheap I just replace them instead of having them mechined.
Max71

This is very basic. I use a shoe alignment based on the rotation of the car. I'm surprised in recent googling that people show it in both configurations.

Once and for all, what is the proper alignment when I redo both sides.

Trust all you folks over mindless googling... :)
Max71

Max, have a look at this website from Paul Hunt

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/rearbrakes.htm#1

Andy
Andy Robinson

Yup, that's what I always used as a guide. Even have it printed out. :)

What's odd is and what gave me pause was suddenly seeing the opposite even in videos.

Thanks for the confirmation, Andy. Excited to do it up properly as you described. A local place has Lockheed mechanical brake grease and I could put it onto an existing order but it makes no mention of copper so I'll go get one that states it.
Max71

Brake grease is usually the red "rubber" grease used when assembling a re-built M/c, slave or servo.
Allan Reeling

Thanks Allan. Off to get the right stuff. As soon as it cools down here I'll have at the brakes.
Max71

This thread was discussed between 01/07/2017 and 06/07/2017

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