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MG MGB Technical - Starter help needed

Hi All:
I have an 1954 MG TF with an 1968 MGB 1800 powertrain . . . I know blasphemy but that is the way I bought it AND I also have a low mileage quite original TF as well.

Now to my request for help. When I got the B-TF it had a 4-syncro box in it. I swapped this out for a 3-syncro box with Over Drive and I also installed an MGB diff. With the larger TF Wheels and higher speed differential the overdrive was not a good idea. Time passes and I now decided to change back to the 4-syncro box. I dig out all the old parts: backing plate, flywheel, clutch, starter etc. and now have a problem . . . the starter will not fit. I have no idea how this came about but the frame of the TF is now too close under the starter and the solenoid hits it.

So my questions are: Is there an MGB starter that has the solenoid on the top rather than the bottom?

I also see a number of modern replacements and they look like they can be mounted either way up. Has anyone tried to mount one of these with the solenoid upward?

Your help appreciated
Godspeed in Safety Fast
Jc
John Crawley

Have you tried mounting the starter the other way up?
paulh4

Hi:
Thanks for your suggestion but the B starter will not revers since the nose points to the flywheel and the solenoid mount is cast as part of the nose.

I have though found a possible solution. The Austin (Morris) Marina starter has the solenoid mounted on the top so it may work if the drive gear is the same as the B.

Your input appreciated
Godspeed in Safety Fast
Jc
John Crawley

Gear reduction starter? https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=230620025073&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps


Bruce Cunha

John, Gear reduction motors, I have a Wasp, are really very, very good. They are smaller, lighter and draw less current than a standard starter. Most will also rotate on the mounting bracket too if space is at a premium. The only slight down side can be caused by the lack of a 12v "out" terminal, if you are using a ballasted coil.
Allan Reeling

Well, regarding the ballast by-pass lead, WOSP say "Due to our high torque starter drawing less current from the battery re-connecting this terminal is not strictly necessary and it can be merely insulated and not re-connected." But they do add that a connection can be supplied if requested.

The WOSP I have for the V8 came with an additional lead, basically a diode in heatshrink wrap, to make the ballast bypass connection. I don't know if that is standard or something that is specific to those supplied by Clive Wheatley. Easy enough to add something similar.

I don't need the connection for my ignition system, so I don't know how well that diode arrangement works ( or whether WOSP's claim that you don't need it is justified. )
J N Gibson

They are right up to a point, they do take less current, so the battery voltage drops less during cranking, leaving more for the ignition and HT spark than a conventional starter does. But under adverse condition it could still make the difference between starting and not starting, i.e. if the battery is weak.

A diode from the solenoid connection to provide a ballast bypass does work, but it needs to be a 10 amp, if anyone is adding it for themselves.
paulh4

This thread was discussed between 25/04/2017 and 27/04/2017

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