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MG MGB Technical - Steering column free play

I have some free play in the steering wheel,maybe 2 or 3 degrees of rotation. Figured it was worn tie rod ends, steering rack or the universal joint, but after clamping the shaft rigid I realized it's in the column itself.(1974, collapsable type)

Checked the archives, but didn't see anything specific. I'm thinking the easiest solution is replace it with a good used column, but thought I'd check with in the wealth of info on this board...

Thanks

Phil Collura

It's normal on a collapsible type, mine does the same. A Toyota Celica manual I have gives the maximum permisible amount in inches at the rim, so it's normal across the industry as well. Whilst the UK MOT is very hot on play in the UJ, rack or track-rod ends they have never commented on the play at the wheel.
Paul Hunt

Interesting Paul. My car has the old solid column, but at the recent MOT test, the tester showed me very slight play in the inner ball joints on the rack, the ones inside the rubber gaiters. I assumed that was a failure, but he said no. He said you should see the play in those joints in new Renaults. Yours will last for years, he said.
Mike Howlett

Just shows how the MOT stations vary I suppose. I had mine fail on the column UJ just after replacing it for the previous MOT - I wasn't best pleased. In that case there was something wrong with the UJ cups as they were actually a loose fit inside the yokes, it wasn't the internals of the UJ causing the problem. Took it back to my supplier and he replaced it, then at the retest I thought they were trying to rip the rack out of the car they were pulling at it so much looking for play elsewhere.

FWIW the inner ball joints are supposed to be stiff-ish, requiring a force of 32 to 52 pound *inches* applied to the rod before there is articulation.
Paul Hunt

Phil, my current B is an ex US 74 car. So it will have the same type of column as yours.

The following site has a fix for your problem.
http://www.theautoist.com/steering.htm
David Witham

Just too lazy to sign-in.

The info David gives is great. There used to be a guy at GEM Enterprises who made bushing kits for up-and-down or side-to-side movement who had an excellent article on disassembly. Very similar to the fix at the Autoist site, but he used hot glue. You still might find him hanging around at http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/list.php?1

When separating the two pieces of the steering column he suggested 'tapping' the pieces to get them apart. I used a lead hammer of about 10 lbs. The upper shaft had a weld 'lump' on the end that was designed to take up space to keep the shafts tight together. There are also a couple of plastic spacer shims between them for this also. The two halves were hell to separate.

I'm pretty sure I still have the instruction sheet that came with the kit. If you want it I can scan it.....

It's a good Saturday project.

Tom
tom (member)

Thanks guys,

I appreciate the feedback. Seeing how the column is constructed explains it.

Tom, if you could do a scan I'd appreciate it - pcollura@optonline.net

Thanks again
Phil Collura

Phil: check your email
tom

FWIW UK MOT
Based on a 380mm steering wheel:free (rotational)play at the wheel for non rack and pinion -75mm
For rack and pinion -13mm. If lots of joints up to 48mm for rack & pinion. Play in UJs- is a bit more subjective as it needs to be "excessive" to fail

Michael
Michael Beswick

75mm for non rack and pinion? That's nearly 3"!!! Shows how dire steering was beforehand. I can only repeat that my UJs were failed with just perceptable play in them, on a column (or rack or track rod ends) that has no perceptable free play.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 14/04/2009 and 20/04/2009

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