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MG MGB Technical - sump bolts

Hi guys, would like your highly recommended advice for removing the front 3 bolts from the sump on a 71 B. Thanks
Keith Yarbrough(TD1558)

Keith,

As I recall, I had to take the bolts out of at least one of the engine mounts and jack the engine up a bit to get to them. I may have pulled the bolts from both mounts.

Charley
C R Huff

Keith,

It can be done with a smallish 7/16" spanner of the right length.

I had no choice as a couple of times I've had to change big end bearings with the engine still in the car. On both occasions I had use of an an inspection pit, so I wasn't on my back struggling to get in the right positions. Also I had two willing helpers and the three of us did the work in shifts because of wrist & arm ache!

Not easy, but do-able!

John.
John Prewer

Keith,

As John has pointed out, I found this 'not easy, but do-able'

The following is an extract from an earlier post of mine:

"I managed to remove the sump without removing the engine (1980 MGB). I've done it three times this year. At first I found the bolts at the front end a bit difficult. I then jacked up the engine by half an inch or so (without undoing the engine mounts - it's surprising how much you can lift the engine before the rubber starts to stretch), and had just enough space to undo them using a short pattern ring spanner (it's about 5" long) - alternatively buy a cheap wrench and cut it down. The gasket was stuck to the block in several places and it took a bit of scraping but it was accessible all round. I've removed the sump twice since then, without having to jack up the engine because the bolts now unscrew quite easily after having cleaned and oiled them the first time I did the job. Only downside to this is with the engine in place I found it impossible to use the torque wrench on the 5 front bolts, but once you get a feel for the correct 6 lb-torque you can guess those 5 easily enough. Definitely worth a try (unless you've got large hands)"

The car was raised a bit on axle stands so I could get under (don't have the use of an inspection pit). If I can do it (old git aged 67, with no assistance) most competent DIY'ers should manage it. Just be sure to use the right length/shape spanner (wrench), and when you get the bolts out give them a good clean and lube.
Brian Shaw

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to attempt it today along with replacing the gasket to the pumpkin.
Keith Yarbrough(TD 1275)

Well, I can't recall when I had so much fun. I did end up having to undo the motor mounts and raising the engine up enough to get at the front five little buggers. I'm on the downhome stretch on my mission to eliminate as many leaks as I can. I think I have found the true cuprit though. Turns out I could wiggle the forward side cover, so gaskets have been ordered and will tackle that when parts arrive. yeehaw.
Keith Yarbrough(TD 1275)

Keith,

That sounds like my experience with the pan bolts. Perhaps some tools might work without raising the engine, but not with what I had.

I don't know which material you ordered for your side cover gaskets, but my experience was that I couldn't get the front one to work with the rubber (neoprene?) gasket. I ended up using a composite gasket on the front side cover.

Charley


C R Huff

I ordered the cork for MGA like John Twist recommended on youtube. He's pretty much "old school" so I believe he knows what he's talking about. More labor intensive than cost but it will have to be done. Although this project has turned into more of a "pandora's box" than I thought, I'm still looking forward to making it right and being safe. Today I found out that the the hubs were only finger tight when they should have been 60 ft.lbs. The pride of MG ownership. Long live the Marque!!
Keith Yarbrough(TD 1275)

Keith,

If you mean the front hubs, be sure to check that someone hasn't removed the spacer block and shims that allow you to torque it up without jamming the bearings.

Charley
C R Huff

Probably the fronts as the rears are 150 ft lb. But the fronts should be 40 ft lb minimum, then tighten to the next split-pin hole which should occur before 70 ft lb, which is the maximum allowed.
PaulH Solihull

This thread was discussed between 09/01/2013 and 22/01/2013

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