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MG MGB Technical - Things to Convert on 80 MGB LE

I recently proved to my neighbors and friends that I have obviously moved into a level of insanity from which there may be no return; I now have two MGBs.

I just acquired a 1980 MGB LE with 20,000 miles on it. The car is practically spotless right down to the tools in the trunk still being unopened in original containers. Of course there is work ahead going over a car that has seen little use in recent years. I am the 3rd owner.

I hope to upload a photo of the engine compartment for your review. If this does or doesn't work, what I am interested in seeking comments/suggestions on is; what to remove and/or bypass under the hood to improve performance, as all the emission components are still intact.

My 72B, had all the pollution and air systems removed before I bought it; this one has everything attached and working.

What are the pros and cons to removing and/or bypassing some of the systems under the hood?

I've read critiques that all the equipment really taxes the HP for the car.

Also, initial inspection suggests a possible need to replace head gasket. Suggestion is to make some other alterations at this time, like remove the Stromberg single carb and replace it with twin SUs, and while at it, add a real header to the system. Pros and cons on this ?????

I won't be playing with altering the increased height of car, as for me it looks nice being a little higher and easier to get down into.

Your thoughts and thanks for them.

BobA



R.W Anderson

Of course dependening on environmental laws and regulations in your state which I have no knowledge of I would suggest the Zenith being removed and replaced by a pair of SU's. I myself have an US 77 MBG with all the smog stuff removed. In the Uk the late mg's had HIF4 twin SU's. Perhaps you could use UK specs as a template.

/Moss
Moss

My goodness. I could hardly recognise an MGB engine under all that cr*p. We in Europe never had to suffer the emissions equipment, so our engines continued to produce around 90 bhp right to the end, whereas I think your car will be down to about 65 bhp, if memory serves me correctly. What you do with it is up to you within the laws of your state, but I can offer no advice on how to do it! You need some American responses from guys who have done it.
Mike Howlett

Installing a pair of SU carburetors, either HS4s or HIF4s, along with the pre '75 stock exhaust manifold, will improve your engine's power by a huge margin. Also, installing the older dual row timing chain and gears will alter your camshaft timing to earlier specifications which will add additional power. A header is really a waste of time and money on a street engine and will quickly rust out. Studies have shown that the factory cast iron exhaust manifold, used from '62 to '74 on U.S. cars, is highly efficient and hard to beat with an aftermarket header. If you need to pass emissions, leave everything as is until the car has passed inspection. Then, you can remove and box up all the smog related components until you, or someone else, needs them. RAY
rjm RAY

If it ain't broke....don't fix it.

Go out and enjoy it.
Rick Ingram

Bob; Catalytic convertor is a hazard on these cars. Any of several issues can lead to a nice glowing cherry red chunk of iron located inches from many flammable materials. Don't have any idea about MN's laws regarding emissions equipment,but I would at least remove the cat and eliminate it's innards. Great time to renew side cover gaskets - probably cooked hard by the heat. Other suggestions all possible. Kept my driver 78 largely stock with some clean up - been dead reliable for the last 14 years.
Dan Craig

Why interfere with it? Original spec cars are rare and getting rarer - first just drive the car and enjoy it - then see if you really want to mess with it - not swap stuff out just cos other people say you should!
Chris at Octarine Services

This thread was discussed between 25/06/2013 and 27/06/2013

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