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MG MGB Technical - Tricks for loosening exhaust
|Any tips on how to loosen a section of exhaust? Trying to remove the final section (~3ft long, includes silencer) so I can lower the rear axle but the damn thing won't shift. Have given a 48hr soak in WD40, followed by ice on the narrow section and heat from a small blowtorch on the wider section. No joy. Would rather not have to lower the whole lot but may have to. Grateful for tips including possible tools.|
|Dremel to extend /enlarge the slots in the wider piece and 2 pairs of Stilsons to rotate the pieces? Also WD40 is not really penetrating oil.|
|Assistant pulls & twists rear section.|
You heat outer pipe and tap all around the joint with a flat faced hammer, keeping it plenty hot. I use a body hammer. This breaks the rust weld, and flattens the ridge/groove that the clamp has made in the pipes.
|As FRM said, tap around the joint. Gripping the pipes is the most difficult, with crushing them. I use chain wrenches.......the sort often sold as oil filter wrenches will do. That's what they were originally designed for, i.e., screwing large diameter tubes together.|
|Over-tightened U-clamps can corrugate the pipes locking them together even when they aren't rusted.|
I got my axle out with the exhaust in-situ, in a single garage, precisely because I didn't want to have to fight the exhaust. There was still enough room to wheel it sideways on a trolley jack until the end had cleared the exhaust before lowering and pulling it back. I might have removed the hub and back-plate first, but as that was the side against the wall perhaps not.
|Paul, I might be able to rotate it out if I'm careful. Hmm - neat, maybe I can sidestep the whole issue? Thanks!|
|Removing the three hangers (rear, center and at the gearbox) will allow the exhaust to hang low enough to remove the axle.|
Once the U-bolts were off, and the rear spring shackles dropped, I steadied it on a wheeled jack and brought it out sideways and back.
This thread was discussed between 20/04/2012 and 23/04/2012
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