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MG MGF Technical - 17 Inch Trophy wheels

No typo "17 inch".

I am planning to get my hands on 17 inch trophy wheels from the manufacturer himself. However Rover apparently reserved the PCD, so I am trying to get my hands on other 4 studs 17 inch trophys.

Anbody can confirm that this is virtually possible to Mike's (Satur) Hub adaptor ? The 4pot AP brakes should still fit (imho).
T

The Trophy wheels were manufactured by Technomagnesia of Italy I believe - so I guess that this should be possible... but why you can't get them to produce a wheel with the correct PCD beats me... :o(

Mike's PCD adaptor is 18mm thick - so the offset of the wheel needs to be about 18 or 20mm greater than the offset originally specified by MG Rover (30-35mm). I'm assuming that you are going for a 7J wheel Thierry?

I can't comment regarding the AP callipers - but I can't see why the same wheel style should pose a problem in the larger size...

PS don't forget to get the correct 56.6mm centre bore dimention! - http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/wheel_options_for_the_mgf.htm
Rob Bell

>produce a wheel with the correct PCD beats me
Exclusive contract with Rover apparently.
http://www.mimwheels.it/eng/aluammim_news.asp?Linea=7

As you can see you can even get them in Chrome :)

Frankly I am overwelmed by all those numbers you posted. Offset, what's that ? 7J ?? Need to read up literature first and find the corresponding translation into German :)
T

LOL! Good to make you think ;o)

I worked out the T-backside dimention for the 7.5J wheel (to make it the same as the standard 16" wheel = 110mm) and came to the conclusion that for a 17" 7.5J wheel to clear the suspension, it would need a 35mm offset when used in conjunction with Mike PCD adapter.

Unfortunately, you'll have a pay off in terms of the new enlarged scrub radius of the wheel: the steering will suffer more from tramlining and reduced stability under braking. But having said that, you will probably be able to live with this: the TSW blades fitted to Andy and Dave's cars also have an increased scrub radius: you don't hear them complaining too much!
Rob Bell

Errr, what's a scrub radius mate?

If i knew what it was then i might start complaining!

:-)

SF
Scarlet Fever

LOL!

Scrub radius:

The distance between the kingpin axis and the camber axis of the road wheel at the contact patch on the road surface.

Kingpin axis/ inclination:

The wheel hub is carried by the upper and lower ball joints. Looking from the front of the car, so the tyre is in profile, the kingpin axis is the line drawn through the centres of the two ball joints, and extrapolated to the road surface.

Camber axis:

Probably doesn't need much introduction here, but is where the top of tyre is either pointing into the centre of the car (negative camber), or outwards away from the centre of the car (positive camber) as you look at the tyre in profile from the front of the car. Draw the camber axis through the centre of the wheel to the contact surface.

If you have a 0 scrub radius, then the two lines intersect at the same point.

If you have a + scrub radius, then the camber axis is offset from the kingpin axis. This is like applying more leverage to the wheel when forces are applied in the longitudinal axis of the car. So the greater the scrub radius, the more prone the steering is to acceleration/deceleration forces, as well as bump forces...

There's a diagram at the base of http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/wheel_options_for_the_mgf.htm that explains some of this...

Hope this helps!

BTW it is some of the explanation of why you get so much feel through your steering relative to other MGFs Andy. As I mentioned, this can be construed as a good thing! :o)
Rob Bell

This thread was discussed on 01/09/2003

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