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MG MGF Technical - Changing brake pads


At the last service, the garage told the missus that the brake pads were on their last legs. As I do a lot of mechanical work myself (currently restoring a 2.8i Capri) I reckoned this was something I could do in an hour to save some money.

I've dug out our workshop manual to check if anything special is required, but it refers to a 'special tool - 18G 590' to press the piston back into the caliper.

Can anyone tell me if this 'special tool' is required? Are these pistons wind back types or can they just be pressed back in using any suitable implement (I won't go into what I'd normally use!).

If a certain tool is required, any suggestions where I can get one?

Thanks in advance.

D Forber

You don't say if front or rear
Rears wind back - part of handbrake mechanism
Fronts push back - If tool is for front it must be to aid pushing them back.
Dave

Ah, yes, sorry.

At this stage its front only. What I don't know is whether it includes discs as the report actually said somthing like 'front brakes near legal limit', accorting to the missus, but I can see from the manual that the discs are straightforward enough.

Thanks.



D Forber

yep use a screwdriver to wind the back caliper in it works dont go and buy the tool
matey
Darren Jeffery

Front pistons just press back into caliper so no special tool actually required unless they use something like a G-clamp to help press it back.
Keith Williams

Pads front and rear are a doddle to change - http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/DIY/index.htm#Brakes

Which is fortunate, as I've had to change my rear pads at the Nurburgring car park a couple of years ago...
Rob Bell


*g*
Just had a look to that 2003 pictures :)
http://www.mgfcar.de/event/treffen2003/dsc02081.html
http://www.mgfcar.de/event/treffen2003/dsc02091.html

Rob, that dealership is still existing in Neuwied ;-)
May be cause of the brake pad price they charge ....

Cheers
Dieter
Dieter

<< the discs are straightforward enough >> Inform your vicar that there'll be a sustained peal of bells coming from your driveway as you hammer off the old ones ;o) The 'special tool' is as you've already figured just a two-pronged tool to turn the rear piston, Draper do a multi version for a few pounds. Mole grips can work too, as can a screwdriver if tapped in the appropriate way...

The Nurburgring's probably accounted for more brake pad sales than any other stretch of road anywhere. Must be really twisty, Rob doesn't appear to brake much on UK circuits ;o)
Mike Hankin

LOL Dieter! Yup, I think that they made a week's living out of my purchase of those pads.

Mind you, had fun running them in ;o)

Mike - had done Donington the week or so before setting off... might explain things ;o)
Rob Bell

LOL... :)

Yes for the special tool, I'd also recommend getting this one.
Draper I think.


Dieter

Yes, that is the tool. I firmly believe that if there is a correct tool, then use it.
There are two important points when changing pads.
Pushing/turning the pistons in returns fluid to the reservoir therefore if it is full, it will overflow. Hydraulic fluid is a very good paint remover.
After replacing rear brake pads, DO NOT apply the handbrake before you have seated the new pads with the foot brake. The handbrake will not self adjust correctly causing a bias and probably an MOT failure.
Geoff F.
G. Farthing

This thread was discussed between 25/07/2007 and 29/07/2007

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