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MG MGF Technical - Changing timing belt (advice)

Hi All,

I'm a little dissapointed with some of the MG service centres around my way in Sydney. Some are just plain expensive and others provide shoddy workmanship.

I have been taking my wifes car (Subaru) to a local mechanic for a few years now and he has provided top service and workmanship at a good price. Never had a problem with the car under his care.

I spoke to him last night and asked if he could change my timing belt which is way over its replacement date. The car has done about 58k miles but it around 6 years old and due for the swap. Well, I'm told it should be replaced at 90k miles or 5 years - whichever comes sooner.

Anyway, he said he's never worked on an MG like mine (99 F) but didn't think there would be a problem. I have bought a copy of the workshop manual and offered to give that to him at the time of service to help him out. He was fine with that. I mention that apparently the MG F can be a little fussy in the belt replacement so using the manual was a good idea.

So, here's where I'm asking some advice. Is the replacement of the timing belt something that a half compitent garage could do with the manual, or should I really take it to a MG F service centre who will no doubt charge me like a wounded bull, but "should" know what needs to be done?

Comments most welcome.

Cheers

Sonny

p.s Rumour has it that an Iranian company is in the lead to buy the rights to build MG F's. Anyone else heard that?
Sonny Foster

Theres nothing to catch a competant garage out, Only advice (which may not be in the manual) is to change the tensioner and the alt belt at the same time.
Will Munns

The way the belt is routed on a Subaru boxer engine he will find it a relief to work on the "F"! ;O)
Only to add to Willīs advise is to avoid taking the starter off and use a air-tool to loosen and fasten the big bolt for the pulley. I donīt think it is mentioned in the manual to unscrew and put aside the coolant tank. This makes it much easier to work on the tensioner as it gives space for an extension for the Allen key... And this Allen key has to be of best hardend quality,otherwise there is a chance of damage to the bolt head. / Carl.
Carl

Oh, and if you remove the lock bolt from the tensioner compleatly then it slackens slightly further and actually alows you to get the belt on!
Will Munns

Top tip from Will there..... Have used the same method often.... very often....!
tim woolcott

Hi Sonny,

hard to recommend anything from diatance.
Will, Carl, me myself and I think Tim have done this works already. Some more, though.

I think it is not that problem with the local mechanic.

Have done it similar. Looked for a small garage with brave mechanic, an air tool and hydraulic ramp.
Learned from the above mentioned friends (and some more) the principals and special hints.
Asked the mechanic from that garage whether he could assist _me_ and help with his experiance and this worked for me.
Btw. the mechanic had a bad flue while I've been there, so his help was only a few.

Changed all at once at 95k km.
- Waterpump (was the old metal type, not worn, though
- Alternator belt
- Cam belt (looked not bad)
- belt tensioner (was heavy worn and noisy !!)
- coolant swap to OAT type

Some initial hints:
>MG like mine (99 F)

- Check the belt and tensioner type before you start.
(I can try to look up your version in files if you send your cars VIN to me)
On the other hand, you should remove the upper cover and look whether it is the tensioner with coil spring (manual tensioner) or the newer automatic tensioner with wire spring. The older manual tensioner has a anoth width belt than.
- Get the cam wheel locking tool 18G1570

- Follow the advise to turning the cam wheels inwards against the locking tool to get less distance on the cam wheel top tooth for the belt assembling.

- Follow the advise (from Tim?) to get off the tensioner spring post while fiddling the belt on.

- No need at any MGF to removing the complete engine brass, even it is said in some editions of the workshop manuals. Loosen the upper only as said by Carl.

- Bend the inner upper wheel house sheet metal outwards and back after works to get more space for works.

However, these hints and I think some more can get forwarded also while you assist your local mechanic.

Up to you.

Regards
Dieter

Dieter

Dieter,

Did you do the 'lifesaver' bolt change too?

What do you use to lock the camshaft gear then? I gess that tool 18G1570 is too flimsy, right?

On the shortcut without locking the flywheel. Once you have positioned the gear correct, put the lock tool (18G1570) and removed the old belt, don't you risk that the crankshaft get out of alignment?

//Oskar

O Sander

Hi,
do NOT use the locking tool for anything else than keeping the wheels lined up. It is only fairly soft plastic and distorts if any force is applied.

Rover has a tool to hold each camshaft gear as the bolt is fastend/loosend.(sp?) It is a very simple tool that can be made of 2 pieces of flat iron and 3 pcs of M8 bolts and nuts. If interested I can mail a drawing of the tool. There are appropriate markings on all spots including the crancshaft,so really no chance to end up wrong. Anyway,when everything is installed the crank should be rotated by hand force (big spanner at the cranc bolt) for some revs and alinements /tension checked to be dead sure all is OK.

Generally a new alternator belt needs rather frequent re-torquing until it stops squeeking! So donīt panic if there is a big squeek upon first startup as I had!
/ Carl.
Carl

Note of caution with timing.... the timing mark on the crank pulley is the notch on the furthest flange of the pulley not on the front flange...!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tim

This thread was discussed between 13/07/2005 and 15/07/2005

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