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MG MGF Technical - Clutch Pedal Return Delay

G'day all,

Some help/confirmation needed about a problem I have with my clutch pedal return action.

When I depress my clutch pedal during gear changes, it sometimes has a slight delay for it to return to the up position. Sometimes the delay is definitely noticable as it makes a "pop" noise when it returns. I suspect it is the noise of the pedal hitting the stop when it suddenly returns and hits it.

I change gears very fast, as I suppose you all do??, and it sometime does not keep up with me.

I have already replaced my clutch so I know thats not it. I have also performed a complete clutch bleed procedure recently.

So, will this be a master clutch cyclinder fix/change?

Maybe its just a weak spring in the master cylinder that needs replacing. There are no visable fluid leaks.

Anyone had this problem and have found a cure/fix to it.?

Cheers,
Branko.
Branko

Sounds like the bearings on the cluch arm need a lube. Spray 3in1 on the cluch arm where it goes thru the casing.
Will Munns

Hi Will,

Thanks for the suggestion.
No, it's definitely not that. All that was checked out OK when I replaced my clutch.
I suspect it has to do with the master cylinder.
Branko

Hello Branko
Firstly, check for fluid loss, secondly, bleed the system, thirdly, replace the Master cylinder. You should not be waiting for the clutch to play catch up.
PS . you post good threads and you have a lot of information to pass on.

HTH

Regards


Tony H
Tony H

Hey, Thanks Tony.!!

Well, it's looking like time to replace the master cylinder.
I'll first check out the bore, maybe it only needs a hone and new seals. When I take it apart all should be revealed.

Cheers,
Branko.
Branko

Branko,

do you remember how you recently dismatled the slave cylinder linkage and cylinder ?

It's of utmost importance to prevent the slave piston from slipping to much out of the cylinder pipe. The inner gasket will crumple (get misaligned?) (spelling?) if the piston gets pulled to much out and just pushed back.
I think it might be useful to looking for a new if you are not sure with it.
Dieter K.

Hi Dieter,

Yes, I was very careful with the slave cylinder when I worked with it during my clutch change. The rubber cover and pushrod came off easy. To get it back I had to push in the piston a little to align with the pushrod mounting hole and stud.

The slave cylinder piston is held in independantly from the pushrod and the rubber end cover. So it should not pop out unless you press the clutch pedal by accident. You can remove the pushrod without a problem.

I will have a good look at it again on the weekend and maybe do another bleed, but my gut feeling is that the return spring in the master has gone weak.

There is also a return spring in the slave. Maybe that needs attention as well.

This if from the manual:
"When pressure is released from the clutch pedal the
master cylinder piston is returned by a spring which
causes a pressure decrease."

Thanks.


Cheers,
Branko.

Branko

This weekend I took the master cyclinder out and stripped it apart. I found some black residue in the bore and the reservoir so I cleaned it all out, retensioned the return spring and put it all back. The bore looked ver good as no leaks anywhere, so I assume that the seals are holding, but I will replace them anyway just to be sure.
Took it for a test drive and it all appeared to go OK.
When I get some more time, I will do the same to the slave cyclinder.

I will have to keep and eye on it and see how it performs under "pressure", if you know what I mean.

Oh a question....or two.
Has anyone bleed their own master clutch cylinder and when they did, did the pedal return on its own accord after you release the bleed nipple and tighten?
In other words, after every bleed action, she had to pop up the pedal by using her foot to do it. It did not want to pop up by itself. It does work Ok after the procedure, but not during. I wonder if this is what normally happens?

Cheers,
Branko.




Branko

When bleeding the system, the clutch pedal will not return to its normal position by itself. You have to lift the pedal. This is because there is no pressure in the system when the bleed nipple is opened.

Bruce
Bruce Caldwell

Bruce,

Thats exactly what I wanted to hear.! I sort of suspected as such, but it is always good to get confirmation.

Oh, and thanks very much for your email. I had recently replaced my clutch (DIY), and it has a complete new clutch kit in it. I wish it would've only have been a simple matter of lubricating the shaft, but no, it needed a new clutch. Check out the achives for this topic "Clutch Replacement Procedure - Conclusion".

Cheers,
Branko
Branko

This thread was discussed between 04/05/2005 and 09/05/2005

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