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MG MGF Technical - Coolant Pipes

Hi all,

I need to replace the coolant pipes underneath the car after a nasty meeting with a road sign.
Has anyone gone to the bother of doing this before?
(not the road sign bit but the replacing the pipes bit.)
If so could you please give me some pointers..
I bet somebody has even gone to the trouble of taking pictures of each step. ..:-p

Cheers..
Shane

I would like some pointers on this too please.

Anyone?

Andy
Andrew Dear

I haven't done this yet (a planned replacement with Mike's alloy pipes is scheduled for later in the year), but it shouldn't be too difficult. Just a question of draining the cooling system, unclamping the flexible rubber coolant pipes and unbolting the metal pipes and performing the swap.

The only pointer on reassembly is to ensure that the cooling system has been properly bled (remember to leave the heater on 'full' before bleeding!)
Rob Bell

When you say leave the heater on full, does the car have to be running to bleed the coolant?

Just wondering because there doesn't seem much point having it on full unless the car is running.

I ordered the parts from mike this morning but I'm a bit nervous about doing anything that involves bleeding the coolant after all the HGF horror stories.

Is it really that tricky?
Do I need any special tools or will my socket set be enough?



Cheers..
Shane

I think what Rob is saying is ensure the heater control is set to "HOT" all the way to ensure air is not trapped in the heater matrix, Bleeding the system is VERY important.
HTH Mike
Mike

The heater is operated by a shut off valve in the water supply to the heater matrix, so if it's on cold then it won't drain or fill properly, so full on means no restriction in the pipes (these pipes run internally down the transmission tunnel rather than under the car), Also when bleading the system do so untill the radiator gets warm, not just untill the temp[ gauge shows the correct temp.

Will
Will Munns

Exactly as Mike and Will say, Shane :o)
Rob Bell

>Is it really that tricky?
>Do I need any special tools or will my socket set be enough?

If you are planning on keeping the car then go for the MS alloy pipes, then you can direct these questions to him (because he has plenty of experence fitting them) also there were a couple of tips on fitting the pipes in Car Mechanics magazine, but as mike wrote the article.....

Will
Will Munns

>Do I need any special tools or will my socket set be enough?

I only dismantled :)
From memory you need no special tools for the bolt works. Take care on the break pipes and their plastic clips, I think the brake pipes run parallel to the coolant pipes. Aircon pipes as well if you have.

Bleeding is another story ;)
http://www.mgfcar.de/bleed/index.htm

Regarding the hose clamps I would advise to get at last the four required in better quality (whider shape). MS has them as full kit and I'm not sure whether he sells them as single. If you are just working I would as well change the two clamps at the radiator and the 4 between the engine and rear wall. OK, or all of them together ;)
Dieter K.

Thanks all,
So just to make it idiot proof....

* Set Heater knob to hot and run car.
* The radiator should be warm before I start.
Open the three bleed points and flush system with water until water is clear.

* Check the Jiggle Valve to make sure it works and is clear.

* Fill cooling system with coolant.
Close each bleed valve when coolant starts to appear.
* Take car for a short run and then check the expansion tank to see if a coolant top up is required.

Is this it?
I know I'm harping on a bit about this but I'm would hate to screw this up.

Cheers,
Shane
Shane

That's pretty much it Shane, although I would repeat the bleed procedure again for all three bleed nipples after the warm-run.

I guess the only other thing to say is make sure you use the correct antifreeze for your car (later, MY2000 cars use OAT coolant), at the correct concentration (50:50 mix)
Rob Bell

>* The radiator should be warm before I start.

Nope, you don't want to do that, you want that _after_ filling the system with water/coolant, if the engine is hot before you start then you will get scalded by the water you drain, and you might damage your head as you remove the coolant. engine shold be cold (leave it 1/2 hour should do)

Will
Will Munns

I'll give it a go at the weekend.
Keeping my fingers crossed!!

Thanks,
Shane
Shane

This thread was discussed between 19/01/2003 and 21/01/2003

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